with the two ports venting straight into where the speakers on the rear deck have been removed?

what calcs do i need to consider? im thinking about 6" pvc x 2 at anywhere between 2 and 15 inches depending on the way box is built? anyone ever heard a set up like this?

SUBOX.bmp

looks like a bandpass to me

looks like a bandpass to me

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will it sound better / louder LSQ than a sealed box in the trunk?

how the phuck do i calc the thing?

42 views and only 1 comment?

anyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

lots of ppl vent like that....

only consideration is how much port is inthe box for displacement reasons...otherwise, u'd figure teh volume like any enclosure...

but ur paint drawing is of a bandpass style box, which most here don't recommend or don't want to try to design...is bandpass what ur trying to achieve? or just a normal vented box with jus the ports firing up into the factory speaker locations?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :Slaeyr:

lots of ppl vent like that....

only consideration is how much port is inthe box for displacement reasons...otherwise, u'd figure teh volume like any enclosure...

but ur paint drawing is of a bandpass style box, which most here don't recommend or don't want to try to design...is bandpass what ur trying to achieve? or just a normal vented box with jus the ports firing up into the factory speaker locations?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :Slaeyr:

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i have no preference as to what desighn (bandpass ported 6th 4th order) its just the idea of porting ALL the output from the driver (not just the ports)straight into the car cabin via the rear speaker cut outs.

1.its it going to yeild better LSQ results than a box in the trunk?

2.how would i desighn it to work?

1) bandpass, if designed properly can indeed sound good while yeilding the output bandpass is known for.

2) that being said, i have no clue if the rl-p will sound good in bandpass and i wouldn't know where to start. u are going to need a proper design to make this happen, which is beyond my abilities.

anyway...as to the actual enclosure, that's not hard. once u get teh volumes calculated for the bandpass enclosure, it's all about the measurements u take and laying it out to get the volumes u need. but the hard part is getting the enclosure designed (volume/tuning) properly for the subs ur using.

i'd suggest u email mike and ask him about bandpass and the rl-p...

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

bandpass = trial and error.

thanks......

bandpass = trial and error.

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you desighn boxes right neon?? wanna try this one?? id be happy to pay! rl-p 12 ported thru rear shelf (speakers removed) 5/6inch pvc pipe max width x 2 looking for 18-80 hz only LSQ???

Could do... I am actually planning on doing this exact thing in the Neon

BTW, you won't need that much port. Dual 4" PVC will be sufficient

Could do... I am actually planning on doing this exact thing in the Neon

BTW, you won't need that much port. Dual 4" PVC will be sufficient

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why you tryin it in the neon?

paypal ready

Same reason you are... and alot of people without fold down seats are. More bass into the cabin

Shoot me an email with your max dimensions, etc, unless they are the same as before... [email protected]

I'll get to it after I get home from work tonight.

Same reason you are... and alot of people without fold down seats are. More bass into the cabin

Shoot me an email with your max dimensions, etc, unless they are the same as before... [email protected]

I'll get to it after I get home from work tonight.

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same as before!

so you think the sq will be as good or better or worse than a box in the trunk useing a desighn like this 2x4" ports seems like it might restrict the output to me-but im not the scientist? we goin regular ported 4th or 6th order?

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...wtopic=2978&hl=

SQ will be excellent as usual with the RL-p. Using a design like this, you will notice more output though.

if i want to port via both speaker cut outs do we just cut these port lengths in half and use 1 in either position? also are you thinking about a desighn similar to my 'paint' desighn in the first post? im not intending to port only the port output into the cab but ALL the output from the sub.

1.5ft, 3" pipe 14.5" long: 31.5 m/s @ 25hz

1.5ft, 3" aero 15.5" long: 31.2 m/s @ 25hz

1.5ft, 4" pipe 27.2" long: 18.6 m/s @ 25hz

1.75ft, 3" aero 13" long: 34.3 m/s @ 25hz

1.75ft, 4" pipe 22.7" long: 20.7 m/s @ 25hz

1.75ft, 4" aero 23.7" long: 20.5 m/s @ 25hz

1.75ft, 5" pipe 36.7" long: 13.3 m/s @ 25hz

2.0ft, (2) 3" pipes 22.7" long: 20.3m/s @ 25hz

2.0ft, 4" pipe 19.4" long: 22.6 m/s @ 25hz

2.0ft, 4" aero 20.4" long: 22.3 m/s @ 25hz

2.0ft, 5" pipe 31.5" long: 14.8 m/s @ 25hz

2.25ft, (2) 3" pipes 19.8" long: 21.8 m/s @ 25hz

2.25ft, 4" pipe 16.8" long: 24.1 m/s @ 25hz

2.25ft, 4" aero 17.8" long: 24.0 m/s @ 25hz

2.25ft, (2) 4" pipes 36.8" long: 12.6 m/s @ 25hz

2.25ft, 5" pipe 27.5" long: 16.1 m/s @ 25hz

if i want to port via both speaker cut outs do we just cut these port lengths in half and use 1 in either position? also are you thinking about a desighn similar to my 'paint' desighn in the first post? im not intending to port only the port output into the cab but ALL the output from the sub.

Nope, port lengths don't get halved.

So do you want bandpass then? If that is the case, I don't guarantee anything... bandpass is more trial and error than not, and you probably don't even have the space to hold a properly sized bandpass.

If you want all the output from the sub to go into the cabin, I'd recommend you to have the the sub face forward, and COMPLETELY seal the trunk from the cabin, and then port the box into the cabin.

if i want to port via both speaker cut outs do we just cut these port lengths in half and use 1 in either position? also are you thinking about a desighn similar to my 'paint' desighn in the first post? im not intending to port only the port output into the cab but ALL the output from the sub.

Nope, port lengths don't get halved.

So do you want bandpass then? If that is the case, I don't guarantee anything... bandpass is more trial and error than not, and you probably don't even have the space to hold a properly sized bandpass.

If you want all the output from the sub to go into the cabin, I'd recommend you to have the the sub face forward, and COMPLETELY seal the trunk from the cabin, and then port the box into the cabin.

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sealing the trunk looks like a lot of fibreglass wood and time- im not ready to do that just yet?

trial and error on the bp desighn? why if the physics fit ?

total output-enclosure-ports-cabin surely theres an equation somewhere there for a smart fella?

my .02

I've tried this type of thing in my car and I'll just explain how it went.

2 Rear firing 12" PPI flat pistons in 1.3 each tuned to 34 with the ports firing up through new holes in the deck lid.

-Note the ports were not attatched by a rubber gromet as I would now recommend bc with out it you arn't ever really sealing the subs from the trunk. there was about .5" from the top of the port to the hole in the deck lid (that way if I ever got a flat I could acutally get to the spare)

-IMO it sounded pretty unimpressive on everything from rap to punk, really for 2 12"s it was weak. The idea of a bandpass seems better than what I did so I'd say your better off there right away (second of all you have a better driver)

-in general I would suggest that if you are any good with glass and cutting metal that you make a far larger hole for the entire sub and then put it in a sealed box behind that. You could make it look like a dish so to speak with the sub in the bottom. I guess this would be a bad idea if you are in an area prone to jakcalopees with crowbars.

-I put an RLP inside my car and it blows away anything else I've had in there, check the fabrications section for pics.

-so the RLP inside bests (2 12" JL 13w3's sealed in the trunk, 2 12" PPI Pro's ported through, 2 8" A/D/S/ 3 series sealed in .7 total (the only thing close to the RLP in SQ but obviously not output.

later,

b

my .02

I've tried this type of thing in my car and I'll just explain how it went.

2 Rear firing 12" PPI flat pistons in 1.3 each tuned to 34 with the ports firing up through new holes in the deck lid.

-Note the ports were not attatched by a rubber gromet as I would now recommend bc with out it you arn't ever really sealing the subs from the trunk. there was about .5" from the top of the port to the hole in the deck lid (that way if I ever got a flat I could acutally get to the spare)

-IMO it sounded pretty unimpressive on everything from rap to punk, really for 2 12"s it was weak. The idea of a bandpass seems better than what I did so I'd say your better off there right away (second of all you have a better driver)

-in general I would suggest that if you are any good with glass and cutting metal that you make a far larger hole for the entire sub and then put it in a sealed box behind that. You could make it look like a dish so to speak with the sub in the bottom. I guess this would be a bad idea if you are in an area prone to jakcalopees with crowbars.

-I put an RLP inside my car and it blows away anything else I've had in there, check the fabrications section for pics.

-so the RLP inside bests (2 12" JL 13w3's sealed in the trunk, 2 12" PPI Pro's ported through, 2 8" A/D/S/ 3 series sealed in .7 total (the only thing close to the RLP in SQ but obviously not output.

later,

b

hmmmm, i wondering though if ur ppi's didn't suffer from small box syndrome. 1.3 per ported seems awful small for those subs.

glad u like ur rl-p though..lol..

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

my .02

I've tried this type of thing in my car and I'll just explain how it went.

2 Rear firing 12" PPI flat pistons in 1.3 each tuned to 34 with the ports firing up through new holes in the deck lid.

-Note the ports were not attatched by a rubber gromet as I would now recommend bc with out it you arn't ever really sealing the subs from the trunk. there was about .5" from the top of the port to the hole in the deck lid (that way if I ever got a flat I could acutally get to the spare)

-IMO it sounded pretty unimpressive on everything from rap to punk, really for 2 12"s it was weak. The idea of a bandpass seems better than what I did so I'd say your better off there right away (second of all you have a better driver)

-in general I would suggest that if you are any good with glass and cutting metal that you make a far larger hole for the entire sub and then put it in a sealed box behind that. You could make it look like a dish so to speak with the sub in the bottom. I guess this would be a bad idea if you are in an area prone to jakcalopees with crowbars.

-I put an RLP inside my car and it blows away anything else I've had in there, check the fabrications section for pics.

-so the RLP inside bests (2 12" JL 13w3's sealed in the trunk, 2 12" PPI Pro's ported through, 2 8" A/D/S/ 3 series sealed in .7 total (the only thing close to the RLP in SQ but obviously not output.

later,

b

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your pics didnt open 4 me? couldnt make out from the thumbs where the box is?

his enclosure is actually inside the cabin of the car on the rear passanger floorboard.

he went inside the cabin due to the bmw's well done sound suppressing. this way, he get's all of the subs output...

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

glad you like the RL-p