i have a 130 amp alt and a ever start battery up front i'm buying a audiopipe 15001d i was wondering if that would be sufficient for that amp if not i was thinking of a shuriken bt60 60ah and 1500 amps i want as minimal voltage drop as possible

i would get a cell with more amp hours if you wantto be stout... and of course big three

i would get a cell with more amp hours if you wantto be stout... and of course big three

yeah im ordering all the wire i need for the big three and for the back battery do you think the bt100 would be stout enough i want hopefully no voltage drop at all but i know thats gonna be nearly impossible i might go with the bt120 just gotta see how this paycheck goes probably 2 runs of 1/0 knu flex to the back battery and 2 ground right to the frame so do you think the bt 100 would be sufficient

Contact me if you want to get a deka 9a31. 100 aH. $100+shipping. It should be more than enough for that 1500. Just watch it at idle. Get a volt meter to watch for voltage drops so you can back off the volume when it gets low.

Contact me if you want to get a deka 9a31. 100 aH. $100+shipping. It should be more than enough for that 1500. Just watch it at idle. Get a volt meter to watch for voltage drops so you can back off the volume when it gets low.

would 2 of them be enough so there is no voltage drop at idle

Edited June 9, 201015 yr by GOT SPL Z71

What year is your truck? new body styles have horrible stock electrical

What year is your truck? new body styles have horrible stock electrical

this is not going in my 2003 chevy its going in my 92 ford taurus

2 is plenty of power for 1500 watts...

but listen to SM one of my company trucks is a 3500 bowtie and its voltage dips bad when workin my lights.

Just don't blast it at idle.

Just don't blast it at idle.

what would it cost for 1 battery shipped to 72653 and btw how much are your spl meters and do they have their own seperate lcd screens

also would it be better to ground the amp to the rear battery or to the strut tower

also would it be better to ground the amp to the rear battery or to the strut tower

there is only 1 person on this site that tells people tp ground to the strut tower.. and i personaly wish he would stop.... but thats just me.

Well, you have to ground the battery somewhere right? You can just ground the battery to the strut tower and then ground your amp off the battery. Whichever uses the smallest length of wire.

Yeah, really get a DMM and check the point where you wanna ground. The least resistance is best.

also would it be better to ground the amp to the rear battery or to the strut tower

Ground the amp to the rear battery and if you can run that to the strut tower.

Jon, I would really like to hear your rebuttal as to why the strut tower is not a good place for a ground.

These are some of my reasons as to why I believe it's superior.

1. You are getting a more solid connection because that part of a unibody is of a thicker gauge metal than random places in the rear.

Thin metal, or thick, I wonder which one is preferred???

2. A 3/8 inch ring terminal on a strut tower is a million times less likely to break loose than using some stock number 10 screw on the body.

3. You don't have to worry about some newbie ruining his gas tank by carelessly drilling and tapping screws in the trunk.

Please don't let your rebuttal include anything about wire length. That is a moot point when the length may only increased by a foot or two, and is negated by the superior ground location.

I kinda know what I'm talking about. I got multiple ASE certifications, and for a living I'm a DC electrician on ships and am extremely close to getting my first ABYC certification.

Here's a control panel I did with circuit breakers and starter switches.... but I'm sure you got credentials too my friend....

Edited June 9, 201015 yr by mr.sagat

more of a reason then it being just as trashy as grounding to a seat belt bolt or a trunk latch???

there are worse places to ground.. no doubt about and i never told anyone to run a small self taping screw into anything metal you can find...

and anyone that is gonna use a body ground should not worry about length within reason ...

but people usualy come here for the best way... not the easy way...

if we gonna tell people the easy way to do things or the fastest way.. then we should just start using prefab boxs and "amp wiring kits"

thats all im saying.

hey but what do i know.. im just a 12 year old with a laptop.

ok what would be the best ground if i dont have a full steel frame and it would be nearly impossible to ground to the frame unless i ran a wire all the way up to the front of the car and grounded to a engine mount because my frame is incased in sheet metal so i think the strut tower would be the best ground imo

ok what would be the best ground if i dont have a full steel frame and it would be nearly impossible to ground to the frame unless i ran a wire all the way up to the front of the car and grounded to a engine mount because my frame is incased in sheet metal so i think the strut tower would be the best ground imo

with the amount of power your gonna be pulling me too..

I ground at the strut tower because it is the best way.

It's all good bro. Since you're out of junior high for the summer, did you watch Wizards of Waverly Place today? Selena Gomez was on point like always

I ground at the strut tower because it is the best way.

It's all good bro. Since you're out of junior high for the summer, did you watch Wizards of Waverly Place today? Selena Gomez was on point like always

lol no.... i dont even know what that means.... but i can see you DVRed it!

I would DVR it, but Disney shows repeats all the time

is she old enough to call hot?

is she old enough to call hot?

she's fixing to be 18 in like a month, so it's all good...

...is she legal? and is she the girl in your DP mr.sagat? lol!

Just run a ground from your starter battery to a place in the trunk when you run your power

...is she legal? and is she the girl in your DP mr.sagat? lol!

girl looks Asian to mee.