hey guys

heres the deal, i finally got my ported box completed and installed the D2 15" BL, hooked up the amp (aq1200d) to 1 ohm, saw that my fuse is blown so i had to use my friends to see if everything was working.. the amp was showing power, and hooked up a capacitor just to see and it was getting the proper volts, but NO response from the sub, no movement at all. We were soo confussed, everything looked properly installed.

just wondering if anyone has any ideas! Please help, i appreciate any given. I miss the bass

also how do i properly tune my amp, and where do i put the knob angled at on the subsonic, i need it set about 30 hz which is 2 under the box tuning, but the knob shows 0 and 50hz, so i dont know where to turn it to.

thnx guys!

Edited July 21, 201015 yr by DCarter

Do you have access to a dmm? Check the dcr of the subwoofer to make sure they didn't blow!

Check to make sure you have the subwoofer(s) wired correctly.

First take the cap out and leave it out.

Put a dmm on the speaker terminals on amp and see if there's any ac voltage.

Setting Subsonic Filter (SSF)

Subsonic filter reduces the amplitude of certain frequencies depending on where it's set.

If your using a sealed enclosure, then turn the ssf all the way counter-clockwise.

So your enclosure is ported? Your going to set the ssf to the frequency your box is tuned to.

Let's use 30hz as an example...

disconnect speakers

turn ssf counter-clockwise until it's considered "off"

play 30hz tone at volume 10.

Measure the voltage output

Let y = voltage output * 0.707

turn ssf clockwise until voltage output now matches "y"

Now your ssf is set.

Do you have access to a dmm? Check the dcr of the subwoofer to make sure they didn't blow!

Check to make sure you have the subwoofer(s) wired correctly.

well im gonna try to get my hands on one, but the sub was out of the box, brand new, thats why i dont understand why it didnt work

Do you have access to a dmm? Check the dcr of the subwoofer to make sure they didn't blow!

Check to make sure you have the subwoofer(s) wired correctly.

well im gonna try to get my hands on one, but the sub was out of the box, brand new, thats why i dont understand why it didnt work

The coils could have the wrong resistance, unlikely but possible, that's why he's suggesting you check to rule it out.

Most likely the sub is fine but it's all part of the process of elmination in the troubleshooting process.

Can you hook up another sub or even a speaker to make sure the amplifier is working correctly?

Most likely the sub is fine but it's all part of the process of elmination in the troubleshooting process.

Can you hook up another sub or even a speaker to make sure the amplifier is working correctly?

Perhaps a tongue between the terminals

yeahhh im gonna try another sub or something lol

Have you tried to pop test the speaker with a battery? "pop" each coil to with respect to polarity (+ to + and - to -) to make sure that the sub moves in the same direction per coil... rewire series or parallel (however you need it wired) and pop again to make sure its in phase. This should rule out the sub.

Thanks,

Scott

Have you tried to pop test the speaker with a battery? "pop" each coil to with respect to polarity (+ to + and - to -) to make sure that the sub moves in the same direction per coil... rewire series or parallel (however you need it wired) and pop again to make sure its in phase. This should rule out the sub.

Thanks,

Scott

I will try this out for sure, im guessing its not the sub since its never been used, but if it is, do i get a refund if its a faulty sub ?

thanks for your help scott

You can use a 9v battery or a drill battery..either one.

You can use a 9v battery or a drill battery..either one.

thank you for the video! im getting the system re-installed on tuesday so im praying it works, if not i will for sure do that test and let you guys know the results

hey guys,, i got the system setup and working today which was a big relief!! it sounds awesome.. i havnt really blasted it since i got the gains down, so i can warm it up for just over a week to be safe

i just have a quick question.. I had the sub in the box for about a week.. we took out the sub today and the magnet was wet, and the bottom of the box was a tad.. it seemed humid in the box.. my car is black and it has been really hot down here, and maybe was just wondering if anyone knows what that could be caused by.. the back piece has a tad of rust now but everything else like the coils and everything were dry.

Thnx guys!!

Humidity sucks...nothing we can really do about it. 99% of the energy that you put into that coil is burned off as waste heat and energy..which is why cooling is so important.

If you live in a humid climate it's only worse because the box turns into an oven of sorts...if you get things hot inside of the enclosure it can draw moisture to the metal...it's just a natural process of oxidation and simply happens. Otherwise I would be looking for leaks in your car and soaking MDF...

Humidity sucks...nothing we can really do about it. 99% of the energy that you put into that coil is burned off as waste heat and energy..which is why cooling is so important.

If you live in a humid climate it's only worse because the box turns into an oven of sorts...if you get things hot inside of the enclosure it can draw moisture to the metal...it's just a natural process of oxidation and simply happens. Otherwise I would be looking for leaks in your car and soaking MDF...

yeahh it really does.. well this is my first summer with a sub, so the humid part is new to me and i havnt ever heard someone talk about it.. I do have the cooling and the flatwind, so it will be good. the coils werent wet at all only the back and a bit on the magnet. the back rusted a bit but nothing bad at all. Still a beautiful sub thnx guys!

but you dont think this will effect anything? im gonna drive with my windows open a bit and the back seats down for more cool air. it is a ported box, and my car has no leaks i checked

thnx nick ! cant wait for 2 weeks to push it to its full potential.

Wait 2 weeks? Why do you have to wait 2 weeks?

You don't have to "break in" a sub..you just have to play it. Keep in mind that you do not want to clip your amplifier, or use any "boosting" features in your headunit or on the amp. You also must have your subsonic filter set 2-3Hz below tuning of the port.

Things break in over time..you don't have to "take it easy" on a sub..it breaks in by moving..if you don't make it move..then it isn't going to "break in"

You have window tint? If not it helps keeping your whole car cooler but looking cool too. and try not staying in direct sunlight.

Wait 2 weeks? Why do you have to wait 2 weeks?

You don't have to "break in" a sub..you just have to play it. Keep in mind that you do not want to clip your amplifier, or use any "boosting" features in your headunit or on the amp. You also must have your subsonic filter set 2-3Hz below tuning of the port.

Things break in over time..you don't have to "take it easy" on a sub..it breaks in by moving..if you don't make it move..then it isn't going to "break in"

I dont know... i know everything was really stiff so i wanted to be safe. so this wont effect the lifespand or anything ? and im going to turn up the gains a bit more on the amp. and yes, the subsonic is at about 28 and my box is tuned to 31 - 32 hz.

thnx again you guys are awesome

im just gonna try to keep the car cool but im hoping it will only be the magnet and back getting wet.. luckly cant see the rust Hahah but since the sub is gonna be moving air, im sure it will get rid of the wetness and heat.

You have window tint? If not it helps keeping your whole car cooler but looking cool too. and try not staying in direct sunlight.

no but im actually gonna be looking into getting that real soon, when i get a couple more paycheques

and im gonna do my best to stay out of sunlight, but i am gonna keep windows and seats down when its safe to lol

Wait 2 weeks? Why do you have to wait 2 weeks?

You don't have to "break in" a sub..you just have to play it. Keep in mind that you do not want to clip your amplifier, or use any "boosting" features in your headunit or on the amp. You also must have your subsonic filter set 2-3Hz below tuning of the port.

Things break in over time..you don't have to "take it easy" on a sub..it breaks in by moving..if you don't make it move..then it isn't going to "break in"

I dont know... i know everything was really stiff so i wanted to be safe. so this wont effect the lifespand or anything ? and im going to turn up the gains a bit more on the amp. and yes, the subsonic is at about 28 and my box is tuned to 31 - 32 hz.

thnx again you guys are awesome

im just gonna try to keep the car cool but im hoping it will only be the magnet and back getting wet.. luckly cant see the rust Hahah but since the sub is gonna be moving air, im sure it will get rid of the wetness and heat.

No...whenever we build prototype stuff it goes wide open free air with 2500 watts for a few hours to loosen the suspension in playing at/near Fs..

A gain isn't a volume knob, it needs to be set according to the voltage you are getting out of your headunit. (Play a 60Hz test tone with your RCA's unhooked and verify your voltage with a dmm on AC voltage with the volume where is your "max" that you listen to)

If you get 2.5 volts out of it..then that's where your amplifiers gain needs to be set...if you don't have access to an o-scope.

Outside of that, you need to verify your subsonic filter with a test CD. Start playing the test cd at 40Hz and go down each track by track. When the sub is moving the least amount, this means you are at the port tuning frequency and the port is doing all of the work.

Click down 2 more tracks and adjust your subsonic filter up until the sub doesn't freak out anymore. Once you play under port tuning frequency the sub is basically acting/working in a "free air" environment.

Wait 2 weeks? Why do you have to wait 2 weeks?

You don't have to "break in" a sub..you just have to play it. Keep in mind that you do not want to clip your amplifier, or use any "boosting" features in your headunit or on the amp. You also must have your subsonic filter set 2-3Hz below tuning of the port.

Things break in over time..you don't have to "take it easy" on a sub..it breaks in by moving..if you don't make it move..then it isn't going to "break in"

I dont know... i know everything was really stiff so i wanted to be safe. so this wont effect the lifespand or anything ? and im going to turn up the gains a bit more on the amp. and yes, the subsonic is at about 28 and my box is tuned to 31 - 32 hz.

thnx again you guys are awesome

im just gonna try to keep the car cool but im hoping it will only be the magnet and back getting wet.. luckly cant see the rust Hahah but since the sub is gonna be moving air, im sure it will get rid of the wetness and heat.

No...whenever we build prototype stuff it goes wide open free air with 2500 watts for a few hours to loosen the suspension in playing at/near Fs..

A gain isn't a volume knob, it needs to be set according to the voltage you are getting out of your headunit. (Play a 60Hz test tone with your RCA's unhooked and verify your voltage with a dmm on AC voltage with the volume where is your "max" that you listen to)

If you get 2.5 volts out of it..then that's where your amplifiers gain needs to be set...if you don't have access to an o-scope.

Outside of that, you need to verify your subsonic filter with a test CD. Start playing the test cd at 40Hz and go down each track by track. When the sub is moving the least amount, this means you are at the port tuning frequency and the port is doing all of the work.

Click down 2 more tracks and adjust your subsonic filter up until the sub doesn't freak out anymore. Once you play under port tuning frequency the sub is basically acting/working in a "free air" environment.

alright thank you. i dont have access to an o-scope, so i should read the voltage of the HU which is a Alpine CDA-105 (which does 2v pre-outs..if that helps) and move the gain to whatever voltage the HU puts out?

and do you know where i can get the test CD to download so i can burn it on a disc

thnx again. appreciate it !

Edited July 28, 201015 yr by DCarter

Just about any bass mekanik cd's have tone tracks.

If not, pickup a MECA cd from www.mecacaraudio.com

I think you have to join and you get a free one..or you might be able to buy one. I'm not sure..I haven't bought one in years, I just use a signal generator.

As far as your headunit, the gain should be set according to it..so around 2 volts.

Just about any bass mekanik cd's have tone tracks.

If not, pickup a MECA cd from www.mecacaraudio.com

I think you have to join and you get a free one..or you might be able to buy one. I'm not sure..I haven't bought one in years, I just use a signal generator.

As far as your headunit, the gain should be set according to it..so around 2 volts.

perfect.. thank you

Humidity sucks...nothing we can really do about it. 99% of the energy that you put into that coil is burned off as waste heat and energy..which is why cooling is so important.

If you live in a humid climate it's only worse because the box turns into an oven of sorts...if you get things hot inside of the enclosure it can draw moisture to the metal...it's just a natural process of oxidation and simply happens. Otherwise I would be looking for leaks in your car and soaking MDF...

u seem to know a lot i could really use your help i need blue prints 4 a box to fit 4 btl 18's ported at 32 or 35hz