August 5, 201015 yr cda-117 + pxa-h100=cda-9887. Both will do imprint with thw added mic, cd and a laptop.
August 5, 201015 yr Author Ok probably if I let you guys know the hardware I plan on having, it might be easier for you to recommend me a headunit.Alpine headunit (dont know which one yet)Alpine 6.5 Type X components (probably 3 or 4 pairs for front doors, 1 pair for rear doors)SAX-125.2 for the Type X components8inch on the front doors for midbass (most likely SSA)Sundown 3500D (most likely 2)(2) SMDs 18" tuned to 30Hz300amp Alternator3 (1 under hood, 2 in the back) XS 3100 batteriesZero gauge for everything8 gauge speaker wire for everythingBig 3Im also thinking that I might add a double-din unit so I can have navigation and DVD. Havent checked a unit yet.With this said, that setup, what would you guys go for?
August 5, 201015 yr You won't be able to run or use your active crossovers with only a 2chn amplifier, you will need a channel for EVERY speaker.
August 5, 201015 yr Author You won't be able to run or use your active crossovers with only a 2chn amplifier, you will need a channel for EVERY speaker.So you are basically saying that I will need more than just 1 SAX-125.2 right? or am I missing something here? :SAnd does that mean 9887 would be worthless?
August 5, 201015 yr Ok probably if I let you guys know the hardware I plan on having, it might be easier for you to recommend me a headunit.Alpine headunit (dont know which one yet)Alpine 6.5 Type X components (probably 3 or 4 pairs for front doors, 1 pair for rear doors)SAX-125.2 for the Type X components8inch on the front doors for midbass (most likely SSA)Sundown 3500D (most likely 2)(2) SMDs 18" tuned to 30Hz300amp Alternator3 (1 under hood, 2 in the back) XS 3100 batteriesZero gauge for everything8 gauge speaker wire for everythingBig 3Im also thinking that I might add a double-din unit so I can have navigation and DVD. Havent checked a unit yet.With this said, that setup, what would you guys go for?What exactly is your goal?
August 5, 201015 yr Author What exactly is your goal?Have a sound system that has really good quality, its loud, and one that will last (in terms of 1) wont get outdated in the next 6 months and 2) durable). Definitely NOT for SPL.
August 5, 201015 yr Systems never really get out dated. All the equipment pretty much works on the same principle it has since the beginning. There are numerouse pieces of "Vintage" gear that are far better than a lot of the stuff you have out today. With all that aside, I think you are in way over your head, or very new to the game. You don't need several component sets to get loud, or numerous woofers. In fact, for durability, I'd keep it simple. One component set up front, one in the rear since you seem to not worry about the soundstage, and a couple 12" woofers. Get a nice mono amp, and one four channel and a HU with some basic processing power, or use the built-in crossovers in the amplifiers and you will suit your goal. It's evident you are not the most experienced, so I would advise you to start out slow and build up to the bigger, more complicated stuff.
August 6, 201015 yr Author Systems never really get out dated. All the equipment pretty much works on the same principle it has since the beginning. There are numerouse pieces of "Vintage" gear that are far better than a lot of the stuff you have out today. With all that aside, I think you are in way over your head, or very new to the game. You don't need several component sets to get loud, or numerous woofers. In fact, for durability, I'd keep it simple. One component set up front, one in the rear since you seem to not worry about the soundstage, and a couple 12" woofers. Get a nice mono amp, and one four channel and a HU with some basic processing power, or use the built-in crossovers in the amplifiers and you will suit your goal. It's evident you are not the most experienced, so I would advise you to start out slow and build up to the bigger, more complicated stuff.Well definitely things will come slowly, I wish I had the cash to go for all what I mentioned.I just got into car audio (like a year ago) so I dont know anything previous to 2009 like what were the good HUs back then etc.The extra components on the front doors will come later. Will start with replacing the pair on front, then the rear one and once my whole setup is finished, start customizing my doors in order to put the extra components.I have a 12" sub, not loud enough for me thats why I want 2 SMD 18s. I already have a nice mono amp, sundown 2000D. I want to get the best head unit out there right now so I dont have to upgrade it throughout the period of me buying the other parts of my build.I learn a lot of new things everyday, but Im not a newbie and I know what I want. Just have a few doubts here and there and the reason why I come here and ask.
August 6, 201015 yr I like Pioneer, they sound good !My deh p88 is soooo niiiice. It's up to you. But I think you don't need all the features of an Alpine 9887. Buy the cheapest, that fits your goals:ipod, usb,...Why don't you buy 2 12"s sub for your sa2000?2 Fi bl's , 2 ssa Icons? Or one powerful 15" sub(an smd would work well on 2000 watts, if you want one). A good custom box, and you're good to go. One pair of type x should be enough on a 125.2, but you can run a 100.4, you would have 2 more channels for another set in the rear(if you want). Good luck !!!
August 6, 201015 yr Author I like Pioneer, they sound good !My deh p88 is soooo niiiice. It's up to you. But I think you don't need all the features of an Alpine 9887. Buy the cheapest, that fits your goals:ipod, usb,...Why don't you buy 2 12"s sub for your sa2000?2 Fi bl's , 2 ssa Icons? Or one powerful 15" sub(an smd would work well on 2000 watts, if you want one). A good custom box, and you're good to go. One pair of type x should be enough on a 125.2, but you can run a 100.4, you would have 2 more channels for another set in the rear(if you want). Good luck !!!I dont want 12s anymore. I want to go and buy the best out there. I know if I get 2 15s I will be really happy but after some time I will be thinking about the next step (or might even regret not going for the top of the line in first place).And you are right, I think the 100.4 is a better choice since I will definitely need more channels for more components.
August 7, 201015 yr You won't be able to run or use your active crossovers with only a 2chn amplifier, you will need a channel for EVERY speaker.So you are basically saying that I will need more than just 1 SAX-125.2 right? or am I missing something here? :SAnd does that mean 9887 would be worthless?Running active means one speaker per channel and one tweter per channel so to run a pair of components you need 4 channels. Or if you don't want them active use the X-overs.
August 7, 201015 yr Author Oh okI thought active meant adding an amplifier between the HU and Components (and that the set of components came with crossovers). Or, when using a signal processor, that Active also meant HU->Signal Processor->Amplifier->Components.So if I want to truly go active, I should just not bother with the crossover included with the Alpine type X right? everything would be plugged straight to the SAX-100.4? Edited August 7, 201015 yr by slim142
August 7, 201015 yr Oh okI thought active meant adding an amplifier between the HU and Components (and that the set of components came with crossovers). Or, when using a signal processor, that Active also meant HU->Signal Processor->Amplifier->Components.So if I want to truly go active, I should just not bother with the crossover included with the Alpine type X right? everything would be plugged straight to the SAX-100.4?yup no crossovers you just use the ones on the amp
August 7, 201015 yr Author Oh okI thought active meant adding an amplifier between the HU and Components (and that the set of components came with crossovers). Or, when using a signal processor, that Active also meant HU->Signal Processor->Amplifier->Components.So if I want to truly go active, I should just not bother with the crossover included with the Alpine type X right? everything would be plugged straight to the SAX-100.4?yup no crossovers you just use the ones on the ampWhat about signal processors? Should I bother with those?Also, that means be ultra careful with tweeters right? you dont wanna send a signal thats too low for it to play?
August 7, 201015 yr Oh okI thought active meant adding an amplifier between the HU and Components (and that the set of components came with crossovers). Or, when using a signal processor, that Active also meant HU->Signal Processor->Amplifier->Components.So if I want to truly go active, I should just not bother with the crossover included with the Alpine type X right? everything would be plugged straight to the SAX-100.4?yup no crossovers you just use the ones on the ampWhat about signal processors? Should I bother with those?Also, that means be ultra careful with tweeters right? you dont wanna send a signal thats too low for it to play?Be careful, YES! and no signal processors
August 7, 201015 yr http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/31894-audio-terminology/You might learn something.
August 7, 201015 yr Author Be careful, YES! and no signal processorsOk just out of curiosityHow come the guy from the tahoe uses the 3SIXTY.2 ?I mean, I know he knows what he is doing, but why are you not considering them?I am sure of one thing, you aren't ready for active yet...Most likely, mind at least answering a question or two? I would appreciate ithttp://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/31894-audio-terminology/You might learn something.Thanks for that link, couple of definitions that I was missing in my dictionary
August 8, 201015 yr What you are failing to understand is that an active setup takes some sort of processing, wheather its built into the deck (9887, 117+h100, etc), a stand alone unit (3.sixty.2, Ms8, etc) or built into the amp(any amp with the right options to get the job done). The audio signal MUST be processed (crossed over) before it gets to the speakers to give them the right audio signal, understand?
August 8, 201015 yr Author What you are failing to understand is that an active setup takes some sort of processing, wheather its built into the deck (9887, 117+h100, etc), a stand alone unit (3.sixty.2, Ms8, etc) or built into the amp(any amp with the right options to get the job done). The audio signal MUST be processed (crossed over) before it gets to the speakers to give them the right audio signal, understand?OK I see nowSo even if I just use the 9887->components, this is still active due to the crossover capabilities of the 9887.Well I guess Im good now, I like the setup I planned, 9887->SAX-100.4->Alpine Type XIm glad I learned something new.Now, whats a good place to set the HPF for the tweeters? I read in that guide should be around 3k-4k, definitely nothing below 3k right?What about for the midrange (the woofer)? where should I set the LPF and HPF?I know at the end is personal taste, but I can say Im kinda lost when it comes to midranges and highs, until today I had just cared about subwoofer stuff.
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