I have a set of Bravox Audio CS60K components and i was wondering if anyone could recommend crossover points? Ive read that the supplied passives low-pass the mid 1000hz@6db and high-pass the tweet at 4200hz@19db. I'm using a 3sixty.2 and the slopes i have are 12 and 24db and powering the components with a T400-4, any recommendations are appreciated.

xover points vary install to install.

As lithium said above, it will vary. Best way to know is test. Why not try out a few different settings and if you don't like the sound or feel something is lacking, mention it in this post and people will help out on adjustments.

I have a set of Bravox Audio CS60K components and i was wondering if anyone could recommend crossover points? Ive read that the supplied passives low-pass the mid 1000hz@6db and high-pass the tweet at 4200hz@19db. I'm using a 3sixty.2 and the slopes i have are 12 and 24db and powering the components with a T400-4, any recommendations are appreciated.

Naw you had to read this wrong somehow, there is no way a mid is going to stop at 1000hz and have a big gap from 1000hz to 4200hz to where your tweeter will start playing. It is hard to pick frequencies before placing speakers in a car, once you install then you can see how they react in a real setting instead of on paper of what can be suggested.

Your first going to need to find the limits to your tweeters, whats the lowest frequency they can play at without getting damage. You have to take your listening habits and volume level in accordance with the frequency range and slope level as well. For instance lets say you have your tweeters set at 3600hz at 12db but after like 30 minutes or once you reach volume 30 your tweeters start to crackle or sound distorted then you have three options to correct this situation. You can either raise the frequency response some if you want to stay at a 12db slope, you can also just raise the slope from 12db to 24db and see if that helps or you can turn the gain down on your amp some but usually one, two or all three may need to be done.

Not the best info to help you get started on active but just the simple version that can get way more complicated, do some reading on active and slope levels. It helped me in the past, plus there are a couple of active threads on this board since I made one around the beginning of the year. Hope that helps

Active is not hard but takes a lot of time, patience and tuning. Dont expect to get it completely right the first time but it will get better the more you play with it. Basically you/your amp/your headunit are now the crossovers instead of using the supplied crossovers that come with the components.

I have a set of Bravox Audio CS60K components and i was wondering if anyone could recommend crossover points? Ive read that the supplied passives low-pass the mid 1000hz@6db and high-pass the tweet at 4200hz@19db. I'm using a 3sixty.2 and the slopes i have are 12 and 24db and powering the components with a T400-4, any recommendations are appreciated.

Naw you had to read this wrong somehow, there is no way a mid is going to stop at 1000hz and have a big gap from 1000hz to 4200hz to where your tweeter will start playing. It is hard to pick frequencies before placing speakers in a car, once you install then you can see how they react in a real setting instead of on paper of what can be suggested.

Your first going to need to find the limits to your tweeters, whats the lowest frequency they can play at without getting damage. You have to take your listening habits and volume level in accordance with the frequency range and slope level as well. For instance lets say you have your tweeters set at 3600hz at 12db but after like 30 minutes or once you reach volume 30 your tweeters start to crackle or sound distorted then you have three options to correct this situation. You can either raise the frequency response some if you want to stay at a 12db slope, you can also just raise the slope from 12db to 24db and see if that helps or you can turn the gain down on your amp some but usually one, two or all three may need to be done.

Not the best info to help you get started on active but just the simple version that can get way more complicated, do some reading on active and slope levels. It helped me in the past, plus there are a couple of active threads on this board since I made one around the beginning of the year. Hope that helps

Here is where i read it.

Right now i have mids band-passed fron 80 to 4250hz with a 24db slope and tweeters high-passed at 4250 with a 24db slope, later i'll try a few different settings and report back.

Well considering they went with a shallow slope at 1000hz, they gave the speaker some room to rolloff almost naturally. The steeper the slope the quicker the frequencies cut off at that point and vice versa for the shallow slope.

Now that I think about it is allowing the woofer to play above 1000hz with a rollof that occurs slowly but still protect the woofer from reaching its limits or intended higher frequency range. When I read it earlier I didnt pay any attention to what db you said my fault . I would start around 2500hz - 3000hz low pass and work my way down from there, most 6.5" midbass drivers dont play above 3,000 well.

Naw you had to read this wrong somehow, there is no way a mid is going to stop at 1000hz and have a big gap from 1000hz to 4200hz to where your tweeter will start playing. It is hard to pick frequencies before placing speakers in a car, once you install then you can see how they react in a real setting instead of on paper of what can be suggested.

Depends on the slope, I wouldn't be surprised if it is using a 1st order network.

Either way, why go active with a set of drivers that you have a crossover for already?

Naw you had to read this wrong somehow, there is no way a mid is going to stop at 1000hz and have a big gap from 1000hz to 4200hz to where your tweeter will start playing. It is hard to pick frequencies before placing speakers in a car, once you install then you can see how they react in a real setting instead of on paper of what can be suggested.

Depends on the slope, I wouldn't be surprised if it is using a 1st order network.

Either way, why go active with a set of drivers that you have a crossover for already?

Was already set up for running active, my previous components were also running active before the switch to bravox.