Nice before, during and after vids!!! Kudos to taking on this install yourself!!! I know that is not the easiest spot to work in. Ten pounds of **it going into a 5lb hole!!

Definitely! haha Thanks for the kudos!

Isn't a great feeling finally getting it installed, wires ran, jumping inside, starting it up, and boom excellent voltage.

I like waking up to 14.6V every morning I may look to see if there is an adjustment bracket that give me more room to adjust so i can get the belt a little tighter, kinda' annoying when it squeaks

Nice before, during and after vids!!! Kudos to taking on this install yourself!!! I know that is not the easiest spot to work in. Ten pounds of **it going into a 5lb hole!!

Definitely! haha Thanks for the kudos!

Isn't a great feeling finally getting it installed, wires ran, jumping inside, starting it up, and boom excellent voltage.

I like waking up to 14.6V every morning I may look to see if there is an adjustment bracket that give me more room to adjust so i can get the belt a little tighter, kinda' annoying when it squeaks

You could try spraying the belt with some belt conditioner too.

I've used this in the past and it helped.

Even on a brand new belt? What exactly does that stuff do? Make it have more grip or something?

Even on a brand new belt? What exactly does that stuff do? Make it have more grip or something?

If you can tighten the belt, by all means do it.

The belt conditioner makes everything tackier, helps get some grip.

Even on a brand new belt? What exactly does that stuff do? Make it have more grip or something?

If you can tighten the belt, by all means do it.

The belt conditioner makes everything tackier, helps get some grip.

May check that out. I have a gates 3pk790 belt on now, just found a site that has 3pk787. I just hope it's not too short to get on. That's not much of a difference, but I really don't need that much! Looking good so far, may call them tomorrow.

Called the company who had the smaller belt, turns out it's the same size as the one I have on now. The smaller size in an inch smaller... Tried calling Mechman to see if they had any advise on what to do but they didn't answer (for the first time). On a hunt now to see if there is a different adjustment bracket (the part that I painted in the video) that I can swap from another honda to allow for more movement to get the belt tighter..

Got ahold of Mechman. They said stock length No idea how I'm able to get that length on. I may just fab up a new bracket, unless someone has any reason why that would be a bad idea?

Searching for a cheap OEM adjustment bracket. A guy on youtube told me what he did; chopped 2 up and welded them together to get one monster oem bracket! Should work perfect! Found one on ebay for $15 shipped. Thought that was a little high so I've PMed a couple people parting out their CRX on a CRX forum to see what kind of deals I can get from fellow CRX owners

So we just shimmed the lower bracket, bringing the top towards the block more, giving us a bit more room to tighten the belt. That wasn't enough so we grinded just a TAD out of the bracket. Belt is super tight now and only has a very minor squeak when starting the car, voltage is MUCH more stable now.

Heard a sub start to fart today, pulled it out and a tinsel lead came loose. Too much power.. need better subs! Hope these hold out 'till the Fcons come out. Just need to be nice to them I guess.

Soldered it back up, but it's a little shorter than the other one. Here are a couple different views.

Went and got some 1/0 welding cable for a run from alt - to batt - and from front bat. - to rear bat -. Oh, and i've got 3 batteries on the way so i have to wire them up as well. It was priced $2.99/ft so i got 25 ft. Knew the guy from school and he said he cut it a tad long. Turns out a "tad" is 4 feet! so after tax and everything I ended up spending $2.80/ft! Dollar cheaper than the Knu I already have in my car. Wow, wish I did this in the first place!

so the belt issue is all fixed up! was it just me or did that belt look a little stiff?

at any rate nice fix on the sub and nice paint job on that bracket looks a TON better!

All in all I'd say that was a great update! NICE! Glad you fixed that squeek. I'm sure that was annoying hah

WOW!!! 4 bats total in the rear??? Guess you got more plans in store for the CRX.

so the belt issue is all fixed up! was it just me or did that belt look a little stiff?

at any rate nice fix on the sub and nice paint job on that bracket looks a TON better!

Belt was brand new, was a little stiff, I guess. Thanks for the kind words

All in all I'd say that was a great update! NICE! Glad you fixed that squeek. I'm sure that was annoying hah

OH it was. Don't remember if I said it or not but i still get a LITTLE squeak when I first start it, but totally tolerable! I'm happy, !

WOW!!! 4 bats total in the rear??? Guess you got more plans in store for the CRX.

I think I'm going to sell the xs 1200, don't know where to put it.. So I'll have 4 TOTAL. Should be here tomorrow, need to make a new beauty panel, quick! Sucks yesterday and monday were my days off. Now I don't really have time to work on anything.

Trying to figure out wiring with so many batteries, trying to get an even load on each one. How does this look?

MS paint FTW!

Looks good to me.

Got the batteries today. Thank you to Ram_Designs!

Made some wires to connect the batteries in the back. Love this hydrolic crimper.

Next step is to make a new beauty panel for the 100.4 and make room for these guys!

Any more insight on my wiring "diagram"?

Did you order the hydraulic crimper online? I've heard Harbor Fright has some decent cheap ones.

That's where i got it from.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html

Used a discount code(s) to get it a little cheaper. Just google for some.

i like that crimper you used! lol! I purchased the exact same one on ebay for about 30$ ~ it is very nice to use!

Any more insight on my wiring "diagram"?

Take a look at this site: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html Gives a good explanation and diagrams to think about.

Any more insight on my wiring "diagram"?

Take a look at this site: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html Gives a good explanation and diagrams to think about.

I had tried to follow that, but I kinda' got confused with only having 3 batteries in the back, not 4. Didn't want to run so many wires for the last method, and the 3rd seemed difficult with the space i have. So i tried to do my best to get close to option 2. That make any sense? lol

Seems like any way, other than what i came up with, I'll need to have 3 runs of 1/0 from front to back.. Am I missing something?

Might be tight to fit them all on the same mounting point, but it seems I read that the + & - for the amp feeds should be at the same connections on the bat. bank at each end with the main connections. Will it make a difference?? Have not had experience with this as of yet, just what I read.

Might be tight to fit them all on the same mounting point, but it seems I read that the + & - for the amp feeds should be at the same connections on the bat. bank at each end with the main connections. Will it make a difference?? Have not had experience with this as of yet, just what I read.

But the site with the diagrams that has been linked said to take them from opposite ends for better distribution of electrical load?

Might be tight to fit them all on the same mounting point, but it seems I read that the + & - for the amp feeds should be at the same connections on the bat. bank at each end with the main connections. Will it make a difference?? Have not had experience with this as of yet, just what I read.

But the site with the diagrams that has been linked said to take them from opposite ends for better distribution of electrical load?

If it was me I would do the positive on one end of the buss bar, and negative on the other end, as your article is describing.

But in all honesty you could use the terminals on one side (one battery) and it would still work fine (may draw more current from the closer batteries, but probably couldn't notice any difference voltage drop wise, definitely not audible).

If it was me I would do the positive on one end of the buss bar, and negative on the other end, as your article is describing.

But in all honesty you could use the terminals on one side (one battery) and it would still work fine (may draw more current from the closer batteries, but probably couldn't notice any difference voltage drop wise, definitely not audible).

Do I have it correct in my diagram? I'm not worried about audible differences, just don't want to have really uneven power distribution.

Yeah your drawing looks fine.

The grounds from the alternator all the way to the rear batteries is likely unnecessary.