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  • Author

wow you cleaned that up a bunch man! and you did a nice job congrats!also I know what you mean about the water! my trunk had the same issue and even still if a heavy rain fall happens I get a little water in there, so I jsut drilled a small 1/8 hole in the center of my tire well that way water could escape rather then pile up lol! at any rate keep up the good work!

Thanks! It;s sunny today, i may need to jump on this!

Twins!!! Nice!!! You gonna do that t-belt yourself?? Not that hard. Good work on the MPG!

I don't want to try it myself. I think im going to take it to SPEEDFACTORY, they're a couple hours away and quoted me just under $300 for install and parts combined. Thought it was good. Honda quoted me over $600. SPEEDFACTORY has been issued in tuning mags, and have some nationally fast civics, i believe they're some of the top in their class. I feel comfortable going with them, and at that cost i feel even better.

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  • So day 2 of box assembly.. started cutting the top baffles of the box out. Flush mount for teh sexy look. The outer diameter of the subs is stated at 12.5" on Fi's website, but it was a little off, we

  • Ok, getting the stock "deadener" off is a pain. A whole lot of plastic cover, DUCT TAPE?!, and sticky rubber stuff. People have "patched" the stuff up with the good ole' american saying, "it'll fix an

  • And after a wipe down i started cutting the tiles up, and applying to the door. First tile.. Door done I think i forgot to take pics. of both doors my bad. I think that the EBR made the largest di

300 for parts and labor sounds really good, I'd go that way also. Not havin' the tunes can be a bummer.

  • Author

300 for parts and labor sounds really good, I'd go that way also. Not havin' the tunes can be a bummer.

Need to get some components! figure ill just run the 100.4 bridged and be really cautious on the gains. Will be a PITA to match the gains though. I know i've read that this is easy, but as far as i can tell this is going to be a b**ch.

300 for parts and labor sounds really good, I'd go that way also. Not havin' the tunes can be a bummer.

Need to get some components! figure ill just run the 100.4 bridged and be really cautious on the gains. Will be a PITA to match the gains though. I know i've read that this is easy, but as far as i can tell this is going to be a b**ch.

I'd at least have to have an Ipod with an external speaker to have some tunes. :lol2:

I know how you feel with the water in your car. I went through that with my neon a long time ago. It was coming in around the tail lights. With a good cleaning and some silicone it finally stopped.

It sucks not having tunes. That's why I picked up an ihome rechargeable iPod dock/ fm radio. I can put it on the dash of my 67 f250 when I go to the dump. And when I tear apart my cadi for the I stall I'll still have some music.

Edited by hondakilla98

  • Author

I'll be patient and wait 'till i figure out what i want to do with the front stage. Need to call Madisound to see what i can do with these tweeters...

Pulled my muffler off today, cleaned and sanded it to prep to paint it flat black. Need to sand off the sitty chrome on the tips so they can be painted as well. Hope it come out as clean as i want.

I'll be patient and wait 'till i figure out what i want to do with the front stage. Need to call Madisound to see what i can do with these tweeters...

Pulled my muffler off today, cleaned and sanded it to prep to paint it flat black. Need to sand off the sitty chrome on the tips so they can be painted as well. Hope it come out as clean as i want.

How's that muffler comin'?? What tweets do you have?

  • Author

Sanded, washed, sanded washed today. Started to rain on me. Think ill get it painted tomorrow, if it doesn't rain. I'm tutoring again this quarter and tomorrow i'm meeting with a new guy, i don't know when though, and work at 4:20 (no joke) so i hope ill have a couple hours to work on it!

I have some seas prestige tweets. Blew one and took the other out, now i can't tell which one i blew lol and no power in my car to test them...

Side note, driving without a muffler has me crackin' up! I don't get how people do this on a daily. If you have holes in your muffler or anywhere in your exhaust, or dont have a part of your exhaust, get it fixed. It's embarrassing lolz

Sealed my rear spray nozzle. Still have water coming in through the rear hatch struts. I know the solution, i just dont know how i want to do it. I guess i can use the same stuff i did with the nozzle. Just delicate pieces need to be removed.. Delicate expensive pieces.

And it's stormin' like crazy outside. That means i get to take a towel to the hatch in the morning. Woot! not.

Yeah, we have tried my son's fart cannon with and without the bafffle. Without just sounds redonkulous, with is a little quiet but has better low end power.

  • Author

Engine>muffler IMO. I don't understand why everyone who owns a civic puts a cannon on it. Some sound good, others (most) are just stupid. And that's all they do to the car. WOW! l

:smileyR:

/rant

Engine>muffler IMO. I don't understand why everyone who owns a civic puts a cannon on it. Some sound good, others (most) are just stupid. And that's all they do to the car. WOW! l

:smileyR:

/rant

I'm assuming they just like the noise.

  • Author

So i plan to get a component set and run it off my 100.4, bridged. In the amp's manual it says it to wire the speaker impendance anywhere from 4-8 ohms. I'm able to run it at 2, right? it's just not under warranty? I'm not trying to run it lower impendance for more power, i only want to put about 100 watts to each side, so im not going to go crazy on the gains. The 100.4 is rated at 320 x 2channels at 4 ohms, or 160 x 4 at 2 ohms.

I'm looking at these

http://www.jbl.com/EN-US/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=P660C

But the only thing holding me back is that they're 2 ohm, could/should i just run off channels 1&3 and not put anything to 2&4? Or would i be safe to run it bridged at 2 ohms? What would you all do?

I don't think I would bridge to the 2ohm components. Just a suggestion, but since you are sitting on a collection of subs, I would do the components on 2 of the channels and bridge the other 2 to one of your subs in a simple sealed enclosure. That way you would have overall great sound (wouldn't be tipping any spl meters) and weight would be minimal. Just a thought.

  • Author

is that possible? thought i would have to bridge either channels 1+2 and 3+4. I need either 1&3 or 2&4 for the components for the left/right feature. Would i be able to bridge channels 2&4 or 1&3?

If so, that would work for a while, for sure.

LOL at collection of subs :P

  • Author

Muffler update, sorry there hasnt been much audio related updates. I'm trying to figure stuff out. People owe me money and they're not paying. Take a little while to save when you're only working up to 25 hours a week. It will happen, it's just slow!

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Supported by the hangers on some saw horses. Ghetto style ;)

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Where i stopped today, got 2 coats on. Think ill do another tomorrow then let it dry another day then put it on.

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I'm really happy with it so far. Can't wait to get it back on and have my car sound normal again. Went over to a friend's house today and revved it a bit when pulling up and he said, "Hey, that sounds pretty good, did you put a fart cannon on it?" I just started laughing and showed what was missing. :rofl2:

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  • Author

It looks really speckled, i think that's just because of the "orange peel" texture and the different angles of the flash hitting it. The orange peel isn't too bad, but i don't care. It's a muffler and it's going to get dirty anyways.

is that possible? thought i would have to bridge either channels 1+2 and 3+4. I need either 1&3 or 2&4 for the components for the left/right feature. Would i be able to bridge channels 2&4 or 1&3?

If so, that would work for a while, for sure.

LOL at collection of subs :P

Use chan. 1&2 for the components, @ 2ohm you'll get 160 watts per chan. then bridge chan. 3&4 @ 4ohm to get 320 watts for the sub. I don't think it's needed to bridge channels for more power for the components, and if that is what you want to do I would not get 2 ohm components.

is that possible? thought i would have to bridge either channels 1+2 and 3+4. I need either 1&3 or 2&4 for the components for the left/right feature. Would i be able to bridge channels 2&4 or 1&3?

If so, that would work for a while, for sure.

LOL at collection of subs :P

Use chan. 1&2 for the components, @ 2ohm you'll get 160 watts per chan. then bridge chan. 3&4 @ 4ohm to get 320 watts for the sub. I don't think it's needed to bridge channels for more power for the components, and if that is what you want to do I would not get 2 ohm components.

what he said if you go the 2 ohm component route.

Here is something to look at if you havn't seen it:

  • Author
is that possible? thought i would have to bridge either channels 1+2 and 3+4. I need either 1&3 or 2&4 for the components for the left/right feature. Would i be able to bridge channels 2&4 or 1&3? If so, that would work for a while, for sure. LOL at collection of subs :P
Use chan. 1&2 for the components, @ 2ohm you'll get 160 watts per chan. then bridge chan. 3&4 @ 4ohm to get 320 watts for the sub. I don't think it's needed to bridge channels for more power for the components, and if that is what you want to do I would not get 2 ohm components.
what he said if you go the 2 ohm component route.

Ahhh that makes a lot more sense. I may do that, and the amp wont mind sending power at 2 different resistances? Since it's 4 channel, it's almost like 2 seperate amps in a way, right (there are 2 of each settings :ughdunno: )? so that's fine.

What about then i want to put all 4 12s back in? Just have to get another set of comps and run 2 sets off the 100.4. This amp is more than i thought it was when i bought it Have you guys every heard of someone having too big of an amp? I'm almost there :trippy:

Here is something to look at if you havn't seen it:

I saw those, I want to see more information first. And i see they fit perfectly in a CRX door! I really like his tweeter placement, wish i would have thought of that... :suicide-santa:

  • Author

Was pretty busy today with school, hitting the gym, tutoring, work, and moving all this audio stuff around in my room so I wasn't able to work on my muffler. Plus it was pouring buckets outside whenever i had a little free time :suicide-santa:

Maybe when you are ready for the 12's to go back in you can run the components active and use all 4 channels. :drink40:

  • Author

Was trying to stay away from active, until i get a HU that i can use it's Xover points. Who knows when that will be.

Had my channel numbers all mixed up the other night, that's why i was so confused. Just looked at the manual and your post, made a whole lot of sense. Thanks again to Sefugi for clearing my head up!

Had to go back and check the mounting of the tweeter you were talking about, getting old and did not see it the first go round.

Like you said, may not want to go active but for now running the 100.4 as a 3 channel would probly work great for you. Will give you great sound and not overload the hatch. For now!

  • Author

for sure, still want to hear my sealed box on music.. Who knows when the sundown comps. are going to be out though. Probably will just go with the JBL i posted, with the 2 ohm load.

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