Trunk rattle is probably the biggest issue for me as far as extraneous noise goes. This is probably true for quite a trunk-oriented bass setups out there. Anyways, I am trying to diagnose EXACTLY what is causing the noise. I have put padding in between the spoiler mounts and the trunk lid, so I am fairly certain it is not that spot. The license plate is padded and deadened, and the vibration continues even if it is removed. Now the back of the lid is hollow. could it be the panels rattling against each other? Would expanding foam in there solve this? The trunk is obviously padded against the weather stripping all the way around, so it seems unlikely that any of these spots are the cause of the noise. I just want to kill the noise without having to weigh the lid down with 20 lbs of deadener... Just skip to 1:40 to see what I'm talking about:

one issue is that you are aming the sub at the trunk lid and just asking for it to rattle. try firing the sub through the pass-through hole. I've had a setup like that in the past,you'll love the sensation of the bass slapping you in the back of the head and it does reduce a lot of trunk rattle

It sounds like the actual trunk is rattling. CLD tiles from SDS should help this, especially if you can get into some off the hollow parts and stick some on the outer skin.

Possibly your rear deck. I know mine flopped like a fish until I braced it.

I think you'd be surprised how much of that noise is the trunk lid rattling against the car. The braces could also easily be attributing to the noise as well. You don't need to fully cover the lid with deadener to effectively get it quiet either. You can fill the empty spaces within the braces with expanding foam, just be slow and careful in the application. (You might be surprised at how powerful the foam can be against sheet metal and a bulge in the middle of a panel wouldn't look good.) Some weatherstripping foam around the lid where it contacts the factory weatherstrip will help to tighten the lid and reduce how much it can move in the first place as well.

You also need to be realistic at the goals you are trying to achieve. Sound deadening can only do so much. This is especially true when you're looking at flex issues. People have and continue to try to prevent flexing with layers and layers of sound deadening mat... and that is just not going to happen.

And I totally agree that moving the sub and changing which way it fires would probably help.

You also need to be realistic at the goals you are trying to achieve. Sound deadening can only do so much. This is especially true when you're looking at flex issues. People have and continue to try to prevent flexing with layers and layers of sound deadening mat... and that is just not going to happen.

Indeed, there are WAY better methods for preventing monster flex than deadener. What's amusing to me is that this is obvious to most when they build a box, but they don't apply it to the rest of the vehicle. There is a reason you don't see sub boxes built out of thin sheet metal with no bracing, lol.

There is a reason you don't see sub boxes built out of thin sheet metal with no bracing, lol.

LOL exactly.

Give me a few hours so I can build the ultimate sub box, a 22 gauge steel enclosure, corner joint welded together. It'll sound amazing!