March 30, 201114 yr ^^^^^ What j-roadtatts said! Any new results from the Audiopipe dropped in?Sorry, i have no idea what you mean lol. Any score difference on the TL, from old kenwood to the audiopipe?Does the dildo come off the top? Jw
March 30, 201114 yr Author ^^^^^ What j-roadtatts said! Any new results from the Audiopipe dropped in?Sorry, i have no idea what you mean lol. Any score difference on the TL, from old kenwood to the audiopipe?Does the dildo come off the top? Jw Not tested yet. I will be taking this setup, hopefully plus a corrected box to the April 9th show. So we will see. I don't know anyone other then Justin that has a shop, and then going further, i don't think he has a TL just yet... Good one bro. Probably but i won't be taking it off. It doesn't look that bad to me
March 30, 201114 yr Get an SPL-lab meter. charge people to get meter time, profit = free meter after an amount of uses.
March 30, 201114 yr ^^^^^ What j-roadtatts said! Any new results from the Audiopipe dropped in?Sorry, i have no idea what you mean lol. Any score difference on the TL, from old kenwood to the audiopipe?Does the dildo come off the top? Jw Not tested yet. I will be taking this setup, hopefully plus a corrected box to the April 9th show. So we will see. I don't know anyone other then Justin that has a shop, and then going further, i don't think he has a TL just yet... Good one bro. Probably but i won't be taking it off. It doesn't look that bad to me April 9th show? hmm, maybe I'll make it.
April 21, 201114 yr Author hey, what's the gross internal volume of your wall?It was 17 cubes now it's 14 cubes
April 21, 201114 yr Author I layered the inside with MDF to cut down on cubes. Because before i was running just 1 1800D KAC-9104 kenwood mono block. So i needed a bigger box. But now i am running that 3500 AQX
April 21, 201114 yr I wouldn't have done that. Okay so you got 17 cubes with only a single layer of wood around the walls right?
April 21, 201114 yr quick questions, why does the 3500 look/seam smaller than the 3000? That one looks like when I had my AP1500???
April 21, 201114 yr The 3000 is physically 2 of the 1500s together while the 3500 is like other 3500 boards. basically its the RD 3250 board without the problems RD had.
April 22, 201114 yr Author I wouldn't have done that. Okay so you got 17 cubes with only a single layer of wood around the walls right?Why? It's pretty much just delaying the building process. Built the box with one single layer of 3/4 plywood, braced it like a MF. Was riding at 17 cubes. Then when i got my bigger amp, i layered the inside with another layer of 3/4 MDFThe 3000 is physically 2 of the 1500s together while the 3500 is like other 3500 boards. basically its the RD 3250 board without the problems RD had.x2, good answer phi
May 10, 201114 yr Author Alright, it's been awhile. But i have been semi busy. Sorry this took so long...Thanks Justin (TripleRperformance) for the subs! Edited May 10, 201114 yr by DarkTinman
May 10, 201114 yr Author Those drivers are monsters, your going to love'm.I know right? I can't wait to play them with something but i don't have any amps ATMwhat kind of excursion are those supposed to have??? good god.Good question, i would have to ask justin lol
May 10, 201114 yr Author Alright guys, so this is the question. Do you think this bracing affects the air movement in my box in a negitive way and also is this a good idea? I KNOW that this is a very good way for bracing but i don't know about constriction of airflow and anything else like that
May 13, 201114 yr what i was meaning in the pm the other day was adding wood to a layer of wood does minimal bracing UNLESS it's at least anchored to an adjacent piece.Examples-Window bracing. This technique is anchoring bracing to 4 walls all together with one piece.Now lets take your pic above.. Lets say your baffle "was" flexing and you want to reduce it...Well, just adding that wood figure on the back of it may help a little, slightly though.Think about it-If the baffle still flexes, it is moving whatever is attached with it.. get it?Now what if you took the added wood behind the baffle and secured it to the side walls?When the baffle tries to flex... guess what.. the side walls are going to restrict movement when the baffle is trying to move in and out..
May 13, 201114 yr what i was meaning in the pm the other day was adding wood to a layer of wood does minimal bracing UNLESS it's at least anchored to an adjacent piece.Examples-Window bracing. This technique is anchoring bracing to 4 walls all together with one piece.Now lets take your pic above.. Lets say your baffle "was" flexing and you want to reduce it...Well, just adding that wood figure on the back of it may help a little, slightly though.Think about it-If the baffle still flexes, it is moving whatever is attached with it.. get it?Now what if you took the added wood behind the baffle and secured it to the side walls?When the baffle tries to flex... guess what.. the side walls are going to restrict movement when the baffle is trying to move in and out..This character act like he knows what he is talking about but I mean when I had him design my box to break into the 60's with 2 18's all he could get me is 157db at 27hz so take advice from other people he is a rookie! I would say throw like 6 sheets over the front baffle make it as thick as a house and there you go TADA :roflmao: :roflmao:
May 13, 201114 yr Yeah, I would really redo that baffle. That doesn't look like its going to help much and will actually block flow.
May 13, 201114 yr Build looks good Bro.Those subs look nice!I agree with Phi and would rework that baffle.
May 13, 201114 yr Author what i was meaning in the pm the other day was adding wood to a layer of wood does minimal bracing UNLESS it's at least anchored to an adjacent piece.Examples-Window bracing. This technique is anchoring bracing to 4 walls all together with one piece.Now lets take your pic above.. Lets say your baffle "was" flexing and you want to reduce it...Well, just adding that wood figure on the back of it may help a little, slightly though.Think about it-If the baffle still flexes, it is moving whatever is attached with it.. get it?Now what if you took the added wood behind the baffle and secured it to the side walls?When the baffle tries to flex... guess what.. the side walls are going to restrict movement when the baffle is trying to move in and out..Yeah okay. That all makes sense. That's what i was planning to do actually but just hadn't gotten to it because it was just a test baffle.This character act like he knows what he is talking about but I mean when I had him design my box to break into the 60's with 2 18's all he could get me is 157db at 27hz so take advice from other people he is a rookie! I would say throw like 6 sheets over the front baffle make it as thick as a house and there you go TADA :roflmao: :roflmao: 6 sheets huh? I am thinking 3 sheets, 2 plywood and 1 mdf on the front to make the subs look flushYeah, I would really redo that baffle. That doesn't look like its going to help much and will actually block flow.I got you covered down below lolBuild looks good Bro.Those subs look nice!I agree with Phi and would rework that baffle.Thanks!Alright guys, for this baffle, i wasn't very specific. The baffle you see there is just my test baffle. I wanted to see what you thought of adding those pieces of plywood on the back and if that would affect airflow. Tomorrow i will be working on my box. This is the plan. First, redoing the baffle. I will be putting 2 layers of plywood on, then a layer of MDF on the front to make the subs look flush on the box. I will be scrapping the idea of trying to make this a removable baffle because honestly it's getting ridiculous to try and if i did i would have to weaken my anchored pieces. Also, i will be redoing the port. Now this is the part where it gets hazy.Do i still want to make it removable? So that i can have low of the lows then a high tuning for comps? Yes, but will it stay intact and be strong? Not as strong as a stagnant baffle. So i think i will be making this non removable. I want to tune at 32hz. The L port will have to be built.Now my idea right now is to take the same exact design of the baffle (The old baffle and use it as a template) then build that L port smack in the middle of the enclosure. Problem? Does airflow get effected and if so, how much? Is there a better/easier way to do it? I don't want to compromise in my box building.Random side questions,What is the best way to mount the subs?What is a good way to keep the baffle in place? Obvious glue and screw but is there a certain type of screw? (probably not but might as well ask)Is there any tips that you have that might help me?I really appreciate you guys taking time to listen and help me out on my build. I wouldn't have gotten this far without support and constructive(ish) criticism!
May 17, 201114 yr Author Lol no answers to any of my questions.So today i finished the following:Double baffleA "new" way to bend the 90Fiberglassing the inside of my portHopefully i can finish this by this saturday so i can show you what it can do.Currently it has 14 cubes (with bracing and port) and tuned at a nice low 32
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