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Posted

I am building an enclosure for my 12 xcon and this is the first enclosure iv ever built so please let me know if i am doing anything wrong. I had my 3/4 mdf cut and i was going to use wood glue and wood screws. when i went to put in the screws into the vertical pieces of wood, the wood split. I tryd every screw i could think of any i couldnt figure anything out.. also how do you screw into the wood after you have just put wood glue on. the wood just slips around when you try to screw?

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  • Clamps are a waste of money and time? Clamps are a necessary tool in order to obtain proper clamping force to make quality joints. I don't know the numbers for MDF, but traditional lumber will take

  • Clamps to hold the mdf in place and predrill your holes.

I always failed at screwing in screws into wood. I always forget to pre drill. FFFUuuuu

First box. Remeber mine thought it was the sh*t! Gl with yours makshure everything is sealed inside of it wouldnt want a leaky box!

always predrill mdf. it will always split on you if you dont

always predrill mdf. it will always split on you if you dont

I learned that the hard way :suicide-santa:

pilot holes ftw

Put wood glue on heavily, clamp wood together (or use a small nail gun) then pre drill holes with a 3 dollar counter sink bit from Home depot. Then do your 1 1/4 drywall screws in the pre drilled locations, unclamp and move on to the next piece.

I like doing 1 1/4 screws first because if for some reason you need to take one out you can go back in with a 1 5/8 screw the next time and not strip the hole out.

dont get too close to the edge 3" max and pre drill only top wood not the one under

dont get too close to the edge 3" max and pre drill only top wood not the one under

If you're using .75" mdf, how are able to be 3" away?

dont get too close to the edge 3" max and pre drill only top wood not the one under

If you're using .75" mdf, how are able to be 3" away?

made me wonder as well.... lolz

dont get too close to the edge 3" max and pre drill only top wood not the one under

If you're using .75" mdf, how are able to be 3" away?

from the end of the corner. obviously not 3" into the box...

Home Depot carries SPAX brand screws that are designed to be used with MDF . They have worked well for me , no splitting and they countersink themselves . They are a little pricey though around $10.00 per box . Maybe they'll work for you as well , good luck .

Home Depot carries SPAX brand screws that are designed to be used with MDF . They have worked well for me , no splitting and they countersink themselves . They are a little pricey though around $10.00 per box . Maybe they'll work for you as well , good luck .

This ^^^ Spax screws have worked the best for me. Just take your time and predrill everything first, both pieces. Clamps are your friend. Countersinking is nice but is not needed, the screws bite into the wood enough.

Home Depot carries SPAX brand screws that are designed to be used with MDF . They have worked well for me , no splitting and they countersink themselves . They are a little pricey though around $10.00 per box . Maybe they'll work for you as well , good luck .

This ^^^ Spax screws have worked the best for me. Just take your time and predrill everything first, both pieces. Clamps are your friend. Countersinking is nice but is not needed, the screws bite into the wood enough.

All good tips for building your first box, taking your time is a must.

dont use clamps or nail guns,waste of time and money or fancy screws,use 1 5/8 0r 2" dry wall screws regular mdf not the lightweight mdf that will just crumble or 11-13 ply birch is better than mdf and lighter(15 years making boxes)

dont use clamps or nail guns,waste of time and money or fancy screws,use 1 5/8 0r 2" dry wall screws regular mdf not the lightweight mdf that will just crumble or 11-13 ply birch is better than mdf and lighter(15 years making boxes)

Clamps are a waste of money and time? Clamps are a necessary tool in order to obtain proper clamping force to make quality joints. I don't know the numbers for MDF, but traditional lumber will take anywhere from 150-1,000+psi of clamping force to achieve proper glue joints. I guarantee you aren't getting even 150psi with just screws.

Do just screws work for making a quick subwoofer box? Sure they do, and I've done it myself, but I would never go so far as to say clamps are a waste of time and money. I always seem to have quite a few assorted screws around (some say I've lost some myself), but one can never have to many quality clamps.

Clamps are not just used for holding the pieces together, but making quality glue lines, as you are looking for a glue line less than .004" thick, or a cover of a magazine.

I never predrill and never split it. As was said, at least 3" from the edge of the board, problem solved. Also, quit buying shitty MDF. If it's dark, it's no good. The dark stuff is very soft, flexible, and terrible for a box of any quality. I recommend high grade pine plywood for most applications. It's a long stronger, lighter, and cheaper than MDF.

I always predrill, then lay down a bead of glue. Clamp the crap out of it, then run the screws in.

Another option you can do is use square stock wood on the inside. You lay that down in the joint, then drive the screws into the square stock instead of into the edge of the mdf. Works really well, just don't forget to take into account the volume it takes up in the box.

Also, depending on how big the box is, you may need to do some bracing to keep the panels solid.

Good luck!

quick question. do you use .75 mdf on all sides of the box, like do you double it up anywhere? first box for me. thx

quick question. do you use .75 mdf on all sides of the box, like do you double it up anywhere? first box for me. thx

Most MDF you find now is crap, so I'd double it up where you can, on any size box.

It must be your location..

All MDF all of us competitors have ever bought in our area is fine.

It takes a sledgehammer with several hits to a street box just to break the joints apart to throw the box away.

We get all our MDF at Lowes.

I'll be going a different route for my wall this summer. Goin with Hardwood. $50 per sheet here.

I would go with Oak but.. unless i get a good deal on other things, i don't feel like spending $70 per sheet when i need several.

Pre-drill. I've never split MDF when I did it, and I routinely screw 2" from the corner of a box.

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