So I was looking on the DC Site for the available alts for a 1997 honda civic 1.6L and I saw there were 3 options:

1. HP Series for $399 - does 180 max & 130 idle

2. Pro Series for $320 - does 210 max & 100 idle

3. OEM Series for $349 - does 170 max & 110 idle

I was wondering the differences between these different series lines.. and also why the pro costs less but has the highest max output?.. Is the hp way better? if so why?.. just wondering because the $400 tag on them.. I guess I just dont know the difference between the different lines of alts really. -Jordan

the big difference between the others versus the HP is the ripple current. Versus having 35-40 AC ripple current, the HP series alternators only produce 4-6. so you in essence get cleaner power and zero electrical noise from the alternator. You will never notice the 30 amp difference on the top but you will notice the 30 amp difference at idle..

I was really looking to only spend close to $300, so the $320 looked best for my price range, I just didn't know if there was a big difference. I am only currently running a Sundown 1200d. Biggest I would probably ever run in this car EVER would maybe be AQ2200/Sundown 2500 tops.. Would the Pro Series 210/100 be sufficient for those if I did upgrade?.. I already have 2 kinetik batts.

PRO series is a great unit. You'll love it. You may see little voltage drops here and there but it will keep up really well.

Alright, I mainly just want to keep it above 12-12.6v if possible at all times to keep my amps in safe condition to last a long life!

the big difference between the others versus the HP is the ripple current. Versus having 35-40 AC ripple current, the HP series alternators only produce 4-6. so you in essence get cleaner power and zero electrical noise from the alternator. You will never notice the 30 amp difference on the top but you will notice the 30 amp difference at idle..

Why wont there be any noticeable difference on the top end, just because of the power level he is running?

Or is the top 30a only at very high rpm speeds?.. Jw

Or is the top 30a only at very high rpm speeds?.. Jw

I dunno about you but i keep it above 5k RPM in town...

Lol, I stopped after I got my 18 over ticket.. Ouch

It's nothing about not having the extra 30 amps at a higher RPM... would you have 30 more amps on the top end or at idle? people dont realize that idle output is the most important aspect of a high output alternator for a daily driven vehicle.

True, and i got an email from you guys explaining that the hp series gain about 10 amps every 100 rpms, so they get to max quick anyways, correct?

And dont our belts start to slip after so many amps? we only have 4 groove pullies/belt.

And dont our belts start to slip after so many amps? we only have 4 groove pullies/belt.

After about 200 you will get some slip on real small diameter pulleys but we run 2.00" pulleys on those on 320's without too much slipping problems.. It's on the 1.8" pulleys you run into problems.. If you have the scratch, the 180HP is hands down the best, but if your budget is more 170OEM, you wont be disappointed I guarantee... The 210 is a great alternator, but the 180HP is better because of the efficiency and idle output and 99% of people wouldn't notice the difference between 180 and 210 on the top end.. The only reason we build a 200 in that case is because people are hung up on "200 amps is better"..

And dont our belts start to slip after so many amps? we only have 4 groove pullies/belt.

After about 200 you will get some slip on real small diameter pulleys but we run 2.00" pulleys on those on 320's without too much slipping problems.. It's on the 1.8" pulleys you run into problems.. If you have the scratch, the 180HP is hands down the best, but if your budget is more 170OEM, you wont be disappointed I guarantee... The 210 is a great alternator, but the 180HP is better because of the efficiency and idle output and 99% of people wouldn't notice the difference between 180 and 210 on the top end.. The only reason we build a 200 in that case is because people are hung up on "200 amps is better"..

Always learning something. Thanks

Always learning something. Thanks

You are welcome, and thank you..

For what it's worth, I (we) are not the kind of company that's going to tell people get the 210, it's better and you'll get more DB'z... I swear, at least 5 times a day we try and talk people out of bigger alternators because they don't need it but they always go big.. In this case, on this car, our 180HP will walk over anything 200-220..

If you want a "true comparison" strictly speaking, the 180HP will do ~160 hot because it only gives up about 10-11% to heat, our competitors 220 amp alternator, gives up 25% to heat because of horrible winding and cooling IN-efficiency, especially when hot. Last time I checked 220*.75=165.. So, in the end our 180 is essentially the same as their 220 in the "real world"... But, 220 >180 the way most people see it, when in real use our 180 will smoke it hands down...

At first i was going to go with DC, then i was looking at others to see if i could get the same thing for a better price or something. This thread has brought me back to DC. Once i sell some equipment ill order an HP for my CRX.

Sorry been working all day, But yeah I completely understand that idle is MOST important, especially in city when Im bumping at all 5,000 stoplights here in kc.. Lol. I Just like the cheap price tag as im a poor college student! if I could get the money I would def want the 130 idle but I cant afford it at this stage in my life ( college payments are #1 right now, car audio is a close 2nd though!!)

BTW.. These alts that are listed on the site like the ones we are talking about, are these like ones that are in stock always (or most always??) Like are these some that would ship out fast or are they still custom order? I know some cars/alts you have to build custom per request each time and could take months for build, but I just wondered if the ones posted on the site like these for the civic you guys have more readily available? ( avg. time of ship out after ordered?) Thanks you have been a HUGE help! - Jordan

These alternators are pretty much ready to go. There isn't any prototyping involved, but rather just putting them together and what not. So you won't be waiting a long time for it that's for sure. If I had to put a number on it, within 5-7 business days if not quicker.

Sorry been working all day, But yeah I completely understand that idle is MOST important, especially in city when Im bumping at all 5,000 stoplights here in kc.. Lol. I Just like the cheap price tag as im a poor college student! if I could get the money I would def want the 130 idle but I cant afford it at this stage in my life ( college payments are #1 right now, car audio is a close 2nd though!!)

BTW.. These alts that are listed on the site like the ones we are talking about, are these like ones that are in stock always (or most always??) Like are these some that would ship out fast or are they still custom order? I know some cars/alts you have to build custom per request each time and could take months for build, but I just wondered if the ones posted on the site like these for the civic you guys have more readily available? ( avg. time of ship out after ordered?) Thanks you have been a HUGE help! - Jordan

Jordan, what Kyle said, unless I run out of housings for these (which we will have on Monday) they are always in stock and usually ship in 1-2 days.. And fwiw, the 170 OEM is really a 180+ amp unit... From a sales standpoint, it is literally impossible to differentiate 2 different 180 amp alternators with $100 price differences to 99.999% of people, so we rate that alternator at 170 instead of 180 (just FYI).. (And yes, the 180HP really is worth the extra $$) Until we brought out the 180HP's, that alternator was our bread and butter.

So even the $350 170 oem will be a lot better choice than the $320 pro 210, Im not really in need of the 210 anyway, I mean im sure the 170 can power a aq2200 or sundown 2500?.. Those are the biggest I ever plan to run within 3 years ( this cars life )

I also wanted to go the cheap route ($320 210/100) because I have heard civic's are a pain to change and figure i will be paying someone to change my alts for me, as I wouldnt have a clue what I am doing, and I have NO idea what they might charge me to install the alt.. So I was leaning towards your low priced alt to make up for that as Im poor atm due to college payments. (anyone know an estimate going rate someone might charge to install an alt?.. never needed it so I dont know pricing)

I had my alt replaced for $240 just recently I would say do some research and do it yourself. Dedicate a weekend to it.

was that only labor?.. or price of a stock alt included?... omg..

expect like 60-80$ an hour and 2-3 hours. That was without the alt. The only reason i had them do it was because i was stranded across state and had no time or tools to do it myself.

dang ouch, we have a friend who owns a shop ( i bought my car from him as well) who usually gives us outstanding deals ( sometimes labor for free or next to nothing, so I may ask him a quote, if its much ill get some buddys for a guys weekend and we'll get on it lol,

He fixed me up not long ago, new water pump, timing belt, new radiator, thermostat, hoses and all labor plus a few other parts I cant think of all for what $300 bucks, when the timing belt alone usually cost $500.. ( the 300 included all parts and labor Rofl )