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Featured Replies

i fucking LOVE IT!!!!!!

  • Author

when i say head room is key i mean.... when you want 1200 watts.. shop for 15-1700 watts

Yes but I beat for a consistent amount of time. I don't want to overload the woofer, or the amp.

when shit is right... you can knock for hours on end full tilt with no issues.......

the motors cool them selfs.. the amp has heat sinks... people have issues when they demand more out of there equipment then its designed for....

operator error # 1 cause of stereo failure. i promise you.

I would nearly kill for a Sundown amp, but a fellow I know in my parts that used to deal with Jake back in the day said that if the amps get anything below 14v, it'll kill the amp. I don't know how much truth was in his statement, but with just a 75a alt, I didn't want to drop 500+ bucks then kill it.

Sundown's operating voltage is 10 to 18 volts. SAZ 1.5d pops up every now and then for 300$. Maybe some more for shipping and there you have it.

  • Author

Ok so new problem arises. Completely off topic but I didn't want to start a new thread. My MA audio amp 400w, keeps popping fuses, and the protect light stays on. I was leaning over it while I was sweating my ass off, but I didn't see anything drippin into the amp. It pops 30a, and 25a fuses, hasn't popped a 20 or a 15, but the protect light stays on. Any suggestions?

your thinking maybe some sweat dripped inside? if so leave it off for a day or so..

or take it apart.

further then that i would take off the speaker wires. and see if it still has issues.

  • Author

Yeah still popping fuses even with the speaker wires off.

  • Author

If I remember correctly, if my fuses are popping, that's a grounded hot correct?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Ok, well it's down to the point where if I pull the hot, it stays on, and the only way to turn it off is to remove the remote, or ground... Quite frustrating. I've hooked a wire from the HU to the amp for a remote, thinking there was something wrong with mine, but alas, no dice. I even did a jumper wire straight from the hot to the rmt, and the protect light was STILL on.... I'm guessing it's just majorly fcked, and I should look for another 4ch to power my 6x9's and the new True Bass Solutions 8" I picked up today. At any rate...

  • Author

Ok, I got the nightshade apart. Had to fight with 1/4" of shoegoo and JB Weld, (thanks PO), but I got it off. Gotta clean the rest of the surround and spider (and shoegoo, and JB Weld... thanks again previous owner...), and I'll have a good platform for the recone :D

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This is one that may help determine the cause of failure -

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These are the detailed pics that were requested a WHILE ago. I just now got around to disassembling it.

Edited by JayD

  • Author

fets? So you don't think it's completely fubar?

fets? So you don't think it's completely fubar?

Probably not, but may not be worth fixing.

Damn those pics are brutal! You have some serious clipping going on for the NS to turn out like that!

Time for a quality mono block, upgraded electrical and "Big 3" if not completed yet.

  • Author

1/0 G grounds, big 3 has been done. Can't really afford a SA amp, any recommendations for something that won't kill it when I recone it?

You could always look for used Sundown in the classifieds.

But members have had good luck with AudioPipe AP series.

AQ and Crescendo also offer reasonable priced amplifiers direct.

It was clearly over driven, look at the scrap marks on the coil in the 5th pic. Or it was not shimmed properly when the previous owner reconed it. Also the fire appears to have started at the negative lead one of the coils. Maybe a bad soldier connecting the coil to the lead? That's what I would think being the coil appears to be fine other than the wear marks.

yea i would deffinatly get a better monoblock amp with some clean power cuz that sub looked really toasted, and if your lookin for a new 4ch then hit me up got something good

  • Author

What kind/how much? PM me.

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