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Posted

Ok. Got a brand new Audiopipe aqx-1800d

(NOT the popular AP series. The new "better" ones.) It's in a less than optimal install which consists of 4-gauge wire that's only fused for 80 amps and just an upgraded starting battery.

I set the gains pretty low and it was just fine. No voltage drop or anything. Then it sat in the car overnight exposed to the elements (read: heat) and all kinds of crazy shit happened.

It kinda falls asleep at low volume, and by that I mean it cuts off completely no protect light. If I play it loud and it heats up it cuts off then too, with no protect light then either. It seems like it comes back on when it cools off but it just cut off again and it's pretty cool to the touch.....I'm confuzzled.

I'm not running it hard at all even though the wire is too small and I have no electrical upgrades. It hasn't seen any voltage drop or anything like that. I just wanted opinions before I warranty and sell this bish.

Ok. Got a brand new Audiopipe aqx-1800d

(NOT the popular AP series. The new "better" ones.) It's in a less than optimal install which consists of 4-gauge wire that's only fused for 80 amps and just an upgraded starting battery.

I set the gains pretty low and it was just fine. No voltage drop or anything. Then it sat in the car overnight exposed to the elements (read: heat) and all kinds of crazy shit happened.

It kinda falls asleep at low volume, and by that I mean it cuts off completely no protect light. If I play it loud and it heats up it cuts off then too, with no protect light then either. It seems like it comes back on when it cools off but it just cut off again and it's pretty cool to the touch.....I'm confuzzled.

I'm not running it hard at all even though the wire is too small and I have no electrical upgrades. It hasn't seen any voltage drop or anything like that. I just wanted opinions before I warranty and sell this bish.

Check all connections at both ends. Remote, ground, power etc.

  • Author

I did that. Fuse is fine, nothing is burnt or loose. Imma switch it with another amp and see what happens.

  • Author

1 ohm. Not very hard at all though seriously. I'd understand if I was dumping on it but I'm not.

I'd check way you have it wired to the sub. If its not that it might be faulty?

  • Author

They're dual 4's paralleled to 2 ohms at the terminals on the box and paralleled again at the amp.

  • Author

Ok so I only plugged in one speaker which reduced the final impedance to 2 ohms and I get the same problems. I think its fucked.

that sucks bro... hopefully you can get it serviced... :suicide-santa:

  • Author

I kinda want a refund at this point man. It didn't even work as intended for 24hrs!

  • Author

Lots of cables on ebay. 227 shipped.

Ok its not the amp guys. I installed my old rockford P500-2 and it has the same problem. Can a fuse be blown without looking blown?

Check all connections at both ends. Remote, ground, power etc.

Check again

Lots of cables on ebay. 227 shipped.

Ok its not the amp guys. I installed my old rockford P500-2 and it has the same problem. Can a fuse be blown without looking blown?

Yes!

  • Author

What does a blown MAXI fuse look like lol

I feel so dumb.

EDIT: Can a fuse be like....partially blown and cause an amp to flicker on and off before staying off? Or is that the amp just losing power?

Thanks for all the help guys.

Edited by An-i-no

It can look 100% and still be shot. Try a new fuse.

Do you have DMM?

:)

Continuity test. :fing34:

  • Author

Uhh....I got a 12v lightbulb lol

I'm in the house for the night atm but ill go buy a new fuse in the morning.

Lots of cables on ebay. 227 shipped.

Ok its not the amp guys. I installed my old rockford P500-2 and it has the same problem. Can a fuse be blown without looking blown?

Yes haha happened to me last week. I has a little agu fuse in and a quick glance looked good but looking closer it was blown. Also if the amp has fuses on it, pull em out and check them out.

Do you have DMM?

:)

If he's getting power to his amp, using a DMM won't help because its getting power after the fuse.

But a blown fuse can work as a currect limiter in rare occasions. And this could be your problem.

Or possible RCA problem, or even a wiring of the subs.

Go back and triple check your sub wiring. Or have a friend who is knowledgable in car audio, recheck after you. Sometimes you can check over and over and still miss something yet somebody else spots it right away.

only 80 amp fuse my ap1500d has 140amp fuse

If the fuse is good and not blowing it, I don't see a problem with a 80 amp.

Heck I've clamped over 500RMS from 8gauge and a 30 amp fuse.

And I know people who use to compete in MECA when they had the fusing rules, ran a Kicker 2500 on 50 amps of total fusing. There was special ways to make that happen, but that's besides the point.

only 80 amp fuse my ap1500d has 140amp fuse

If the fuse is good and not blowing it, I don't see a problem with a 80 amp.

Heck I've clamped over 500RMS from 8gauge and a 30 amp fuse.

And I know people who use to compete in MECA when they had the fusing rules, ran a Kicker 2500 on 50 amps of total fusing. There was special ways to make that happen, but that's besides the point.

They still use fuse ratings + cone area to determine class. There are several guys doing 150 with 30-40 amps of fusing still. They have placed restrictions on the number of fuses though now. To the OP, check and make sure your fuse holder is not broken. I've had the same problem before and the fuse was fine, just the holder had cracked a bit inside and started allowing the fuse to slip out of the connectors just a tiny bit and the amp was cutting off/on as the fuse slipped in and out of the connection.

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