Im completely new to all of this..but I was wanting to put 2 12" Fi SSDs in a 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer. But I don't know what options to get and what amp. I have about $600 to work with and still have to buy the subs, any help would be very appreciated

Im completely new to all of this..but I was wanting to put 2 12" Fi SSDs in a 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer. But I don't know what options to get and what amp. I have about $600 to work with and still have to buy the subs, any help would be very appreciated

Save more money. Otherwise you'll end up buying the stuff you REALLY needed in the first place after you buy some cheap crap.

id say save atleast another hundred if not two. ur subs will be around $450 and u need atleast $300 for a good amp to run them.

you really dont need to buy any of the options for the subs they are way underrrated(i have 2 fi ssd 10's)get at least a 1000 watt amp and a nice ported enclosure built to spec and you will have a perma smile.

Im completely new to all of this..but I was wanting to put 2 12" Fi SSDs in a 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer. But I don't know what options to get and what amp. I have about $600 to work with and still have to buy the subs, any help would be very appreciated

First off, Fi SSD's are great subs. Since your budget for the sub stage is $600, you should consider the Fi X12's as well. Check out Crescendo and DC Audio amps.

Im completely new to all of this..but I was wanting to put 2 12" Fi SSDs in a 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer. But I don't know what options to get and what amp. I have about $600 to work with and still have to buy the subs, any help would be very appreciated

Don't be afraid to buy used.

Your budget is too small for those subs, wiring, box, and amp.

Options:

Flatwind coil: The flatwire coil option simply helps the power handling of the sub. The coil has more surface area to dissipate heat and will take more power then the regular round wire coil that comes in the ‘stock’ version of the sub. This option will also make the sub tend to be more prone to ‘peaking’ for a budget daily driving sub where you don’t have to use a ton of power to get maximum output and sacrifice sound quality a little bit

Cooling is never a bad idea. There really isn't any compromise with cooling. It won't make anything worse.

Internal leads take away the push button speaker wire terminals and leave you with a bare wire.

QTS: I have no clue.

QTS is like...you can think of as.....cone pressure. High QTS subs do well in sealed enclosures.

Edited January 7, 201213 yr by An-i-no