For the box I'm thinking about going with 2-4" aero Ports. Now do I just put them in flush with the top of the box firing at the empty 6x9 holes? Or put the box in and try to install the Ports afterwards externally? And if I install them later. Do I cut holes in the deck carpet or fire the ports through, like the 6x9's did?

I wouldn't mess with door panels either. When they were available they cost $900, now they aren't and would probably be a pain to find in good condition in a junk yard.

The speakers I have are 7" home audio and should provide decent midbass, they also aren't neo. So the magnet structure is fairly deep. I plan on running large format tweeters up on the pillars like you did. Which should help bring up the sound stage, and make up for the poor aiming of the mids..

i know my a pillers are huge.. and yours migth not be as huge as mine are.. but just throwing it out there.. if your lady will be driving it.. my pillers are a HUGE blind spot for my chick and my mom when she uses it.. and i drive for a living.. huge trucks.. and sometimes i find my self imaging where i am on the road like i do when i town an 18 wheeler in a classic extended hood rig, rather then in my car.

for me not an issue. as thats my day to day.. but for everyone else a huge problem.

the tweeters i used are VERY directional everyone kept telling me play them off the glass blah blah.. but with these tweets it wont work..

ill be tuned in to what you do for your front stage,

the front mounting depth is not that great i think its 2.38 or somthing if you go from the doo rto the window.. the factory 5x7 in the front had a 1.5 inch spacer .. so once you remove that.. add your MDF spacers .. there is a bit of space to work with between the door pannel and the door skin,

i secondskinned the inside of the door with damp pro then covered the entire door skin with mass loading luxuary liner pro. and ut helped alot with sealing up the door a bit..

by biggest problem i think is my comand center or what ever you wanna call it.. my over head console. it pretty much destroyed it self in a matter of days. and it makes noise.

well look at me getting all chatty.

My tweets are basically the size of a 4" midrange. I'm trying to figure out where to place them. I'm thinking more in line with the pillar, so they block less vision. They won't be as aesthetically pleasing, but should be less of a vision problem for the wife. Mine also need to be on axis, so I'm pretty limited on placement.

I know what you mean about driving trucks. I used to drive for a living, so to me. The town car is small.

Edited March 9, 201213 yr by hondakilla98

Sounds like you got some fun ahead of you, cant wait to see what you come up with.

Simple. It keeps the wife happy. And it keeps my back bumper pristine when she's driving.

LOL, sounds like my wife...Nice ride, looking forward to seeing your progress!

I ran my power wire today. Here are some pics.

I ran my power wire down with the fuel lines past the exhaust.

Here is a shot of it coming past the cat and exhaust manifold from underneath.

Running to the back zip tied to the fuel line.

Going behind the fuel filter.

Going up through the hole I drilled.

Coming up through the hole I drilled.

Here's how it's ran for now.

Edited March 10, 201213 yr by hondakilla98

I got my sub box wired and loaded today, and ran my ground. Then it started raining. Hopefully tomorrow I can be bumping. I ran the ground under the spare through an existing hole. And drilled a hole in the frame. I'll post pics after they load.

I took out my spare after I talked to bigjon, and popped out a stock plug and replaced it with a grommet.

I drilled a hole in the frame, and sanded it clean.

Here it is installed from underneath. I ran it through the rubber exhaust hanger.

An here's how far I got.

looking good,

Looks real sharp man!!!

J

I hooked up my amp and I'm only getting 3 volts on my dmm. When I check my positive wire at the amp and use the body as the ground I get 12.8 volts. So should I add a body to frame ground? Or just ground to the body instead of the frame? I don't have enough write to do the big three right now.

I would add a body to frame ground.

Also I ran my 1/0 run in the same place as yours down the fuel lines, and the part of the wire by the cat. converter melted partially when I did it, so Id definately keep an eye on it.

Looks good so far though.

I would add a body to frame ground.

Also I ran my 1/0 run in the same place as yours down the fuel lines, and the part of the wire by the cat. converter melted partially when I did it, so Id definately keep an eye on it.

Looks good so far though.

I ran a short frame to body ground, from the frame to the spare tire well. All of about 6". That seems to have fixed my problem. I need to order done more wire and do the big three. I may also put in my second battery, a Deka 9a31. So far I'm sitting at 13.9 volts at idle.running the system fairly hard only drops to 13.6. But I do have some dimming.

the big three helps it all alot, first thing i do... frame body motor battery -

and alternator to battery +

as far as the cat melting the wire,

i have never had that problem.. in the past. i had 2 runs of 0/1.. now that i have 4 runs of 1/0 im gonne be checking on it alot more,... i do for a fact that if you have old cats, or if your car is not running properly, your cats will burn hotter, and cause more heat related issues. i hope i dont have any !!!!

i hope none of us do!!

I was going to order some more wire today. But knukonceptz is out of stock on black 1/0 CCA. So I guess I'll wait.

I'm not too worried about the cat melting the wire. It's pretty far away and zip tied. I've run this same wire on the big 3 for my Eldo in some hot spots and had no problem.

Next thing I'm focusing on is running my RCA's, and speaker wire to setup for my active front stage. And a remote wire, which I forgot before. I've got a jumper on it now that I have to disconnect everytime.

Glad its working good for you by the cat, it is a pretty easy place to run it. Also have to the OP if you have the stock alt you should look into the diode mod, it brought my charging voltage up almost a full volt,

Glad its working good for you by the cat, it is a pretty easy place to run it. Also have to the OP if you have the stock alt you should look into the diode mod, it brought my charging voltage up almost a full volt,

I've tried googling this and didn't get very far, mostly headlight wiring harnesses. What is involved with this mod?

oh.. also i just picked up a new team .. so ill be selling my alternator .. its a 240 amp. h/o

I've decided to switch up my sub stage from 2 sa10's to 3 sa8's. I've been working on dimensions and box calculations and here is what I've come up with so far.

Box outer dimensions with double baffle

41"wide, 10.5"tall, 17.875"deep

gross box volume 3.214 cu ft

sub displacement .08*3=.24 cu ft

Slot port tuned to 33.6 hz 39.7"

slot port volume .827 cu ft

slot port wall displacement .14 cu ft

total port displacement .96 cu ft

3.21 gross box volume

-.24 sub displacement

-.96 port volume

-.02 for 2 vertical dowels 1.5" diameter

-.01 for front wall to port wall dowel 1.5"

-.015 for front wall to back wall dowel 1.5"

-.04 45'd corners

1.925 cu ft net tuned to 33.6hz

.64 per sub

500-550 watts per sub

Which is right in line with Jacob's power vs box size post.

If anyone sees anything off with this let me know.

I'm buying 3 motors for cheap and reconing them to D4 so i can wire them to .66, I have more 1/0 wire on the way so I can put my second battery in, and do the big 3. And I'm buying Bigjon's H/O alternator soon. Which should give me adequate electrical.

Edited March 22, 201213 yr by hondakilla98

Here's what I'm thinking for the box, but with 3 subs instead of 4.

Light grey on the box to match the trunk and black on the port and recessed baffle.

Edited March 22, 201213 yr by hondakilla98

I'm also trying to decide what to do with the two amps and battery. I could take out the spare tire, put the battery in the well for the bottom of the tire. And then build an mdf rack to mount both amps above the battery. Then I could put the spare tire cover back on and all you would see is the sub box sitting on top of the gas tank. Another option I'm considering is to do a false floor in the trunk with the battery, both amps stacked(with the top amp on a hinged plate to access the bottom amp), and a small storage area for a "go bag". There would be a hinged cover that would go on top and I'd, have a very useful, still good sized trunk. Option three is to do the battery and amps in the spare tire well and the false floor for the go bag, jumper cables, a small safe, etc...

Here's a pic of the trunk as it is from the factory.

Here is what would be under the false floor.

Here's with the false floor in place.

This still leaves me a nice usable trunk, and I wouldn't have to put grilles on the subs, since they sit up above anything I'd put in the trunk. I'll work on a different photo and cheesy "Paint" work for the other setup tomorrow. I figure ventilation will be easier with everything in the spare tire well. With this setup I think I'd have to have a bump on the right side by the spare tire cover, to run an intake and exhaust fan for cooling.

Edited March 22, 201213 yr by hondakilla98

I've decided to go with 2-4" aero ports instead of the kerf port.

And I started installing my door speakers today. Here are some pics.

Here is the door with some deadener and butyl rope installed.

Some shots of the inside of the door.

Here's the adaptor traced out.

Adaptor cut out.

Speaker test fit in the adaptor.

Adaptor side shot

Adaptor and mid installed.

Adaptor, mid, deadener, etc installed

And I got the ccf mostly cutout today.

Edited April 8, 201213 yr by hondakilla98

nice progress!!!

I finally had another dry day to work on it. Hopefully tomorrow will be another.