Okay, so I had two questions:

How does inverting your subwoofers affect SPL/""SQL"" if at all?

&

How would I go about making one side of my enclosure plexi-glass? (how to secure it to the box)

Just asking because I've never done either before and was thinking about one or the other for my next build.

Thanks guys!

dont know about the plexi.

inverting only removes the subwoofer from the box. so the box volume will increase some what because the subwoofer is not taking up room in the box. in some situations you may notice a difference in frequency response.

when your planning your enclosure design accordingly.

ya i knew that there wouldnt be any sub displacement anymore..lol. just wondering more so if it hits different...

Doesn't really sound any different, other than you may be able to hear a little motor noise if the sub makes any. As far as mounting the plexi, you need to pre-drill and screw, usually use a countersink type bit and then use a seal in between the plexi and the wood you are mounting it to.

Doesn't really sound any different, other than you may be able to hear a little motor noise if the sub makes any. As far as mounting the plexi, you need to pre-drill and screw, usually use a countersink type bit and then use a seal in between the plexi and the wood you are mounting it to.

never bought plexi before...guessing i could probly get any thickness, you have any idea on the thickness? thx for the help man!

Instead of simply bolting the plexi to the box I chose to sandwich it between two pieces of MDF. It's very secure, creates a fantastic seal and prevents issues with cracking or splitting it due to drilling holes and tightening screws/bolts to the plexi and gives a much better overall appearance. Due to the sandwich process I use I found it easiest to use the plexi in a matching thickness to the MDF at 3/4". There's many different ways it can be done tho and it would all depend on your fab skills and tools you have at your disposal.

When working with plexi there are several ways to go about using it. No way is really the wrong way as long as it seals and does not flex.

Here is one we did in a few hours for a local.

We went with two sections of plexi because I happen to have it sitting around.

Doesn't really sound any different, other than you may be able to hear a little motor noise if the sub makes any. As far as mounting the plexi, you need to pre-drill and screw, usually use a countersink type bit and then use a seal in between the plexi and the wood you are mounting it to.

never bought plexi before...guessing i could probly get any thickness, you have any idea on the thickness? thx for the help man!

A lot will depend on the size of the panel. Usually a small box with subs not running on a lot of power you can get away with 1/2", but honestly the thicker the better. If you have access to 3/4" even better. The sandwiching trick he mentioned earlier will work really well too, like he said though, really depends on your skills.

thanks guys - im going to go with 1/2'' most likely and probly going to sandwich the plexi inbetween the wood, i think that will work/look the best.

you guys use Lexan when you do your installs or just plain plexi?

Ours depends on our clients. Like the images I linked to that was just 3/4" plexi and it was built that way because a few weeks later we built fiberglass beauty panel that covered up the edges and such.

The idea of putting it between wood works well if done correctly. I never use anything smaller then 3/4" for enclosures though.

The idea of putting it between wood works well if done correctly. I never use anything smaller then 3/4" for enclosures though.

if you dont get yours local, can you link me to the website you get your plexi/Lexan?

and how i was planning on sandwiching the plexi, keep in mind i've never tried this before - just plain old enclosures before. but i was planning on doing two sheets of 3/4'' mdf on the side i want to put the plexi, which most likely will be 1/2''. how i was going to do it was cut the window for the plexi, of course smaller than the sheet and round the edges with a router. then shave down each piece of mdf 1/4'', the size of the plexi, so it would fit perfect (on the side that i didnt cut the window, so the backside of the rounded edges of the window). would that work?

sorry if i lost anyone with my description..

thanks again..lol

Edited June 19, 201213 yr by Jack3d SPL

I don't think i would do it that way to be honest. I still stand by only useing 3/4" or larger or you will more then likely have issues with flex. Best bet for your first time to do a basic enclosure, cut out a whole the size of the plexi, and make a window style lip to mount it too..it will flush out and if done correctly will never fail. You can then take another sheet of mdf and make a second face to hide scews and such. Very easy.

I get my plexi from a wholesaler so I'm afraid I will be of no help for you there. Sorry.

okay, i get what you're saying. this is deff going to be a fun little project - hopefully this weekend i can get started, its my bday sunday so i should have a little extra spending money to fund this project. lol

thx! i'll make a thread when i start..

Edited June 19, 201213 yr by Jack3d SPL

No problem, if you have any questions on a quick/good way to mount the plexi just hit me up. I will help you with what I can.

im sure it wouldnt hurt to let me know now since i've never done it..lol. then i wont have to stop the build and get on here to ask.

better to just do it right the first time - so how would you suggest to mount the plexi?

Edited June 19, 201213 yr by Jack3d SPL

Here is a "rough" idea on how to do it with out far more work then required.

This would be the outer more part of the baffle. Cut out would be the size of plexi you slide in.

For mounting it you can cut 4 smaller parts for the inner baffle (makes cutting the whole much easier if you are not used to better ways to do it).

This will leave 1" or more where you can drill into the plexi for pilot holes and use screws to secure it. This is almost the same method I used for the picture above. I typically make a 1/4 or 1/2" panel over the very back to hide all screws and edges of the window cut out. Normally made in an oval shape or custom cutout of some sort.

While this is not the method I use the most, it is a tried and true method and great for learning.

thx for taking the time to make the visual...thats how i figured i would have to do it.

No problems...

Here is a quick few images of what we normally do for the 3rd part of the plexi install. What is not shows is that on the inside of the cutout(viewing area) we use a rabbit bit and cut a groove back for folding the carpet over.

This is cut from 1/2"mdf

And set over everything after the plexi is installed...

In the end this is all you see

Just an FYI: For drilling hard plastics/acrylics, etc, etc, use a drill bit with a 60* point, it will help prevent the cracking upon drilling through the surface and better chip extraction. You can buy them from places like McMaster Carr. A few good drill bits will pay for themselves in short order rather than scrapping a piece of plexi. Also use a drill press with power feed when possible, that'll eliminate all issues coupled with a 60* drill point.

Another note since we are talking about plexiglass. After cutting take a MAPP/Propane torch and heat the cut ends and it will remelt them and glass over for a more professional look. Now don't hold the torch there for to long otherwise you'll have bigger issues.

Just an FYI: For drilling hard plastics/acrylics, etc, etc, use a drill bit with a 60* point, it will help prevent the cracking upon drilling through the surface and better chip extraction. You can buy them from places like McMaster Carr. A few good drill bits will pay for themselves in short order rather than scrapping a piece of plexi. Also use a drill press with power feed when possible, that'll eliminate all issues coupled with a 60* drill point.

Another note since we are talking about plexiglass. After cutting take a MAPP/Propane torch and heat the cut ends and it will remelt them and glass over for a more professional look. Now don't hold the torch there for to long otherwise you'll have bigger issues.

Agreed. The torch idea..is called flame polishing and works amazingly great. We use that method a lot when building aquariums.

i was planning on ordering it pre-cut but i did see i could get almost double the amount for cheaper un-cut, is it hard to cut? what would i need to cut it with?

who wouldnt want to get more for less...lol

I use a 120t saw blade on a table saw

Wow that shows to be a $300 blade on Amazon! Tell me that isn't so!

I use Forest blades which are 300-400, but you can get a 120 tooth blade at home depot for like 40 bucks.