So i ended up giving away my system to my sister in hopes to build a new one (: my goal is 145dbs give or take. i have a 1999 jeep grand cherokee. i have plans to do the big 3, a 250a HO singer alt compared to stock 136a d6500 under the hood, and two d3100s in the rear. i thought about getting a dc 3.5k and dc lvl 3 or 4 15s or 18s, also thought about a crescendo 2k or 3.5k. but idk. if anyone has any suggestions, ideas, input. pleaseee let me know. looking to run between 2k and under 4k.

old sub was a 15 skar vvx, it played low and it was nice, but id rather get a sub that plays higher than that, and tune low if i wanted to. . . budget is 750 for the amp, and 700-800 for the subs. and id pref like as much cone area as i can (:

I recomend some SSA Xcon 18's in a ported box. Wouldn't know what to recommend for amps. Xcons sound great in a sealed box too. Nem a member here has 2 SSA XCONs 18's and they are absolutly amazing they sound so sick. he has a Sundown 3500.1d running both subs and a 125.2 running the doors. The front end mids and highs sound very clean and very nice and the bass just adds to it. You will enjoy that setup and American made subs are the way to go!

thanks man!! been checkin them out!

You're welcome. Now that you will hit a little over 150db not much but you should be able to. But if you take my word for it you'll be satisfied. haha. I am currently running the SSA gcon d4 with an audiopipe 15001d 2 ohms @ 950 and the driver is absolutly amazing its just what i was looking for but im gonna get another here in a few months. Which is why im running such a high voltage amp. SSA overall sell fantastically built products and i'm happy to be running them.

You're welcome. Now that you will hit a little over 150db not much but you should be able to. But if you take my word for it you'll be satisfied. haha. I am currently running the SSA gcon d4 with an audiopipe 15001d 2 ohms @ 950 and the driver is absolutly amazing its just what i was looking for but im gonna get another here in a few months. Which is why im running such a high voltage amp. SSA overall sell fantastically built products and i'm happy to be running them.

You're welcome. Now that you will hit a little over 150db not much but you should be able to. But if you take my word for it you'll be satisfied. haha. I am currently running the SSA gcon d4 with an audiopipe 15001d 2 ohms @ 950 and the driver is absolutly amazing its just what i was looking for but im gonna get another here in a few months. Which is why im running such a high voltage amp. SSA overall sell fantastically built products and i'm happy to be running them.

It's not an instant 150dB.

NO of course not i'm just saying that you could get there easily with thoes 18's

NO of course not i'm just saying that you could get there easily with thoes 18's

I still wouldn't say that.

NO of course not i'm just saying that you could get there easily with thoes 18's

I still wouldn't say that.

Honestly it depends on your set up you're correct stefan. i know what you mean now. But if you set it up right it is absolutely possible to get there.

Easily as in not possible without cabin gain. As always that means it comes down to install. Super potent drivers that can seriously boogie and get loud while doing it, but hitting numbers and being loud are two entirely different things.

Either way, they will be a HUGE step up from the Skar. HUGE.

NO of course not i'm just saying that you could get there easily with thoes 18's

I still wouldn't say that.

Honestly it depends on your set up you're correct stefan. i know what you mean now. But if you set it up right it is absolutely possible to get there.

Yes it's a possibility.

I've seen people with 4 15s and tons of power struggle to break 150, and I've seen people with a pair of 12s break it. All varies from Competing format, mic positioning, vehicle characteristics, and enclosure alignment.

To the OP, if you get into competing and want to break some number goal that's cool, but for a daily setup I wouldn't worry so much about breaking some number.

Well my goal is 145. With my single skar 15, and600ish clean watts. i hit 137.5. my friend was able to hit 143. i want a daily setup, but his was very close to where i wanna be as far as driving around bumping music. (of coatse numbers are nice to be able to show) but im just using it as an example of loudness. and yes yes with the how the install goes. proper box and everything will be extremely taken into consideration. thought about running a cpillar wall but im not sure yet

Well my goal is 145. With my single skar 15, and600ish clean watts. i hit 137.5. my friend was able to hit 143. i want a daily setup, but his was very close to where i wanna be as far as driving around bumping music. (of coatse numbers are nice to be able to show) but im just using it as an example of loudness. and yes yes with the how the install goes. proper box and everything will be extremely taken into consideration. thought about running a cpillar wall but im not sure yet

I wouldn't bother with a c-pillar wall, mine as well just use a big ass box in the cargo area, and you'll still be able to use your rear-view mirror.

Perception of loudness is a funny thing. IE: One could build a spl box for an 8" playing a high frequency, have it meter high, but in another setup metering lower with a lower frequency, and the latter sounds and or feels much louder.

As much as I despise the smd forum, I believe there are a few people on there with grand cherokees. You could try PMing them, and pick their brains on their enclosure alignments, and what they managed on termlabs.

Edited June 18, 201213 yr by stefanhinote

Good news is grand cherokee's can get loud if you can brace one properly...

I would look into a sundown audio saz3500d and a pair of Xcon's... You will need a h/o alt for daily... but it would put you in a good position for getting relatively loud.

Just remember, when it comes to spl, equipment is only 30% of the equation... the rest comes to install and understanding cabin gain, also, Fart boxes will get louder, but you will loose musicality, on the other hand, a well built box will still get loud and play music accurately.

Well my goal is 145. With my single skar 15, and600ish clean watts. i hit 137.5. my friend was able to hit 143. i want a daily setup, but his was very close to where i wanna be as far as driving around bumping music. (of coatse numbers are nice to be able to show) but im just using it as an example of loudness. and yes yes with the how the install goes. proper box and everything will be extremely taken into consideration. thought about running a cpillar wall but im not sure yet

I wouldn't bother with a c-pillar wall, mine as well just use a big ass box in the cargo area, and you'll still be able to use your rear-view mirror.

Perception of loudness is a funny thing. IE: One could build a spl box for an 8" playing a high frequency, have it meter high, but in another setup metering lower with a lower frequency, and the latter sounds and or feels much louder.

As much as I despise the smd forum, I believe there are a few people on there with grand cherokees. You could try PMing them, and pick their brains on their enclosure alignments, and what they managed on termlabs.

what do you mean by enclosure alignments? havnent heard that before, and

Good news is grand cherokee's can get loud if you can brace one properly...

I would look into a sundown audio saz3500d and a pair of Xcon's... You will need a h/o alt for daily... but it would put you in a good position for getting relatively loud.

Just remember, when it comes to spl, equipment is only 30% of the equation... the rest comes to install and understanding cabin gain, also, Fart boxes will get louder, but you will loose musicality, on the other hand, a well built box will still get loud and play music accurately.

what do you mean by brace properly?? and yes, as i said before, planning on getting a singer 250a alt and some batts

Too bad.. I have a Crescendo 5500 for sale.

Too bad.. I have a Crescendo 5500 for sale.

no money till sept haha otherwise id take that haha

There are different enclosure types ie: sealed, ported/vented, 4th order bandpass, etc.

For you, stick with a ported enclosure.

The tuning frequency of the port & enclosure volume will effect the frequency response (output vs frequency).

The direction in which the subwoofers will be firing and the port location will also effect the frequency response. How much? Possibly enough to be noticeably louder, perhaps not.

You should also learn about port area, how to calculate how much is enough, and why.

Hint: It has to do with the speed or velocity of the air at the port. "vent mach" "port speed"

The forum has a search function, it will be your friend.

lol i know what different kinds of boxes are and what they do and specs and freq and all that stuff lol im new to this forum, not audio (just sayin lol) i just didnt understand what you meant by alignment, i havnet heard that before, unless thats what you explained above, in which case i feel stupid lol and i also didnt know what the otherguy meant by saying i need to brace my car properly, meaning eletrical? alt, batts, big 3? or something else. . . .

on another note, i will prob do a subs up port back, and at the bottom, idk if i wanna use aero ports, but box prb tned to 34-36hz, 18-20 port area (give or take)

what do you mean by enclosure alignments? havnent heard that before,

As Stefan notes below there are different enclosure types, but that only touches the surface of the different enclosure alignments. Quite simply an enclosure "alignment" is a pre-determined response by enclosure design. There are several well known alignments for ported enclosures alone, QB3 - Quasi-Butterworth, C4/SC4 (Sub)Chebyshev, and BB4SBB4 (Super)BoomBox are the most commonly seen and used in WinISD for example. Each alignment offers different overall responses, each suited to different subs and applications. Quite honestly the alignments, they're responses and which one is best for a given sub and application are a bit more advanced. It takes quite a bit of study and real world practice to learn all that, I know just enough to be very dangerous with it and in NO WAY fully understand it all.

There are different enclosure types ie: sealed, ported/vented, 4th order bandpass, etc.

For you, stick with a ported enclosure.

The tuning frequency of the port & enclosure volume will effect the frequency response (output vs frequency).

The direction in which the subwoofers will be firing and the port location will also effect the frequency response. How much? Possibly enough to be noticeably louder, perhaps not.

I agree with Stefan, stick to a ported enclosure for the subs and use the recommended enclosure sizes and tuning as recommended by the manufacturer for whatever you end of choosing to go with and you should be fine.

basically thinking 2 xcon 18s, and some amp, or 2 DC level 4 18's and a dc 3.5 or 5k....def getting an xs d6500 under the hood, and planning on at least 1 but maybe 2 d3100 in the rear. knukoncepts 1/0 for big 3 and runs to the rear. also getting a 250a singer alt.