Well, I got a new sub, Sundown X 18

Next up, a wall

That surround looks huge.

I should have grabbed about 6 of those bastards during the sell. maybe this spring 

The surround is huge, I've never seen anything like it. Supposedly it could throw shy of 10cm both ways combined.

I like to spamalam

I dont know much about headphones really but I would recommend sennheiser. I picked up a pair of hd 558 for about $130. Only gripe is that the cord came with a 1/4" jack and an adapter that is rather large. I decided to buy another cord for it but you could just hack the 1/4" off and solder a 3.5mm on. They do use an open back design, not sure how big of a deal this is for you. The isolation is fine but they do leak sound. 

 

I think aaron is a Sennhieser fan, he can probably speak more on it. 

 

Correct sir.  Here is a great price on one of the set's I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA02D08N0442 

 

This is the set I want: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1JX1181113

I do have one question though for the motorheads here.

Bolt on the crankshaft that holds on the fly wheel is a bit hard to turn since I turn over the motor. Any trick to holding it still?

 

Impact. Otherwise I leave the engine on the vehicle and crank it with the ratchet/socket on the crank and wedged to prevent them from turning. The starter torque will pop the bolt.

 

Actually 2 questions.

Would you rejet if your pistons looked like this?

 

They look exceptionally clean. But plugs tell me more than the pistons do.

Can't see wash on the plugs though. Plugs look healthy, I've just never yanked the head on a 2 stroke sled before.

Yanking the head on a 2 stoke sounds like my last trip to Thailand.

Top: Halo Triton with variable voltage battery.

Middle: Halo G6 with mini tank.

Bottom; Halo G6 with standard cartomizer. It is about the same size as a regular 100 cigarette.

The big ass Triton is getting a special dabs globe. It is actually really nice compared to the e-cigs. The flavor is so much more full and unhindered. I was rather surprised, actually. I was surprised to find out how just changing the voltage of the battery (on the Triton) affects the flavor of the vapor. You can turn it up too far, so it takes a little playing, but it is fucking badass.

Told ya youd love it, some juices require you to burn em hotter to get a good cloud out of em. But I love having variable voltage too makes it so much easier to get what you want.

 

 

Yeah, I read about how the variable voltage can affect the juices. It seriously does. I like the fact that I can basically affect the temps with the knob instead of changing coils. I am gonna grab a few coils to play with eventually. I just spent ~$250 on juices, tanks, batteries, and carts because of their sale going on, so I am gonna chill for a bit before I start buying coils to swap.

 

 

You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

 

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

 

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

 

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

 

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

Factory cars are generally tuned rather rich.

I'm rich bitch!

 

 

 

You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

 

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

 

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

 

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

 

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

On a dedicated track car that you are trying to get the most out of then I can see maybe leaning out some. But in a boosted car I personally dont want to see mid 12's, you are braver than me  

 

I just found some random pics speaking of that SRT10 , Here was the simple wet kit I had on it

 

Here was the stock dyno graph, second pull I removed the air filter. I wish it showed the AF, it was crazy rich, low 10's, I am thinking with the 125 shot it was still in the 12's. 

Anybody want to take a guess at what this dyno graph is from? 

 

This is stock versus modded, same car.  

 

 

Anybody want to take a guess at what this dyno graph is from?

This is stock versus modded, same car.

Newer camaro? Ls7

I do have one question though for the motorheads here.

Bolt on the crankshaft that holds on the fly wheel is a bit hard to turn since I turn over the motor. Any trick to holding it still?

 

Does the flywheel have any strong indents / holes? 

Actually 2 questions.

Would you rejet if your pistons looked like this?

 

A tad rich is on the safe and cool side. 

The trip to buy the ski-gear was fun. Icy road, 10 minutes into the trip on steep slope with sharp turns the Jeep just powerslides along with barely any throttle input, gotta love torque  

Caddy Wagen, Lee?

gmc 2500 hd 6.6l diesel? 2011+ they have 650-720 lb ft of torque, ok interiors, handle well and pull like a bat out of hell. My girlfriends father has an '11 and has taken a late 90's viper on the highway.

Unless it's very modded, very , he is full of shit.

 

Agreed, 700 lbs of torque does not equate to a lot of power. What are they rated stock? 300-350hp? 

 

 

 

You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

 

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

 

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

 

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

 

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

 

Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though. 

gmc 2500 hd 6.6l diesel? 2011+ they have 650-720 lb ft of torque, ok interiors, handle well and pull like a bat out of hell. My girlfriends father has an '11 and has taken a late 90's viper on the highway.

Unless it's very modded, very , he is full of shit.

Agreed, 700 lbs of torque does not equate to a lot of power. What are they rated stock? 300-350hp?

397/765. I know very little of the truck I just know the owner. He races BMW 2002s and has some other fun toys. I'm not sure of any work done to the truck but he is into his go fast toys.

No that would be a 2001 Viper stock and after a Novi 2000. Greg Good heads, built bottom end and full exhaust. Car would run 6.3's in the 1/8th. Beast

Top: Halo Triton with variable voltage battery.

Middle: Halo G6 with mini tank.

Bottom; Halo G6 with standard cartomizer. It is about the same size as a regular 100 cigarette.

The big ass Triton is getting a special dabs globe. It is actually really nice compared to the e-cigs. The flavor is so much more full and unhindered. I was rather surprised, actually. I was surprised to find out how just changing the voltage of the battery (on the Triton) affects the flavor of the vapor. You can turn it up too far, so it takes a little playing, but it is fucking badass.

Told ya youd love it, some juices require you to burn em hotter to get a good cloud out of em. But I love having variable voltage too makes it so much easier to get what you want.

Yeah, I read about how the variable voltage can affect the juices. It seriously does. I like the fact that I can basically affect the temps with the knob instead of changing coils. I am gonna grab a few coils to play with eventually. I just spent ~$250 on juices, tanks, batteries, and carts because of their sale going on, so I am gonna chill for a bit before I start buying coils to swap.

Did you buy a rebuildable one? I have a king tank I can rebuild. I make my coils it's pretty neat. My tank only cost 50$ and I got like 5 feet of canthol flatwound coil for 5$