- as for what we want to see out of your life, I'd kind of like a 'cooking with Sean' series. Little tips and tricks, and shit to make cooking at home simpler.

I'd be glad to help...but it is hard for me to dumb down things. I don't mean that in a mental way, but solely physical.ie, if a dish that I do the prep work on for 15 minutes and it takes you 2 hours will you still make it?Knife skills are the single most critical thing to learn in the kitchen. My friends regularly ask for a cooking class and I pretty much require they go to a knife skills class first, otherwise we spend all the time in teh world on prep and never get to cooking.Mies en place is the first and always followed rule in cooking. If it takes forever to get there though you will get frustrated.

I do think a knife course would certainly be beneficial for me. Where did you go to get your knife skills?

Sad that even though I grew up around bars and restaurants my drink making skills are average and my knife skills aren't even close to good.

J

Also, there was a DSLR lens in F/2.8 that I recall you guys discussing as a 'should get' piece of glass. I am looking into new glass at the end of the semester, what size was it you guys were talking about again?J

"Goto" lenses in everyone's bag should be (crop sizes listed):17-55 2.850 1.4 (1.2 is even better)70-2002x extenderIf you start with those you are golden. Matt would start with the 70-200, I'd start with the 17-55. He shoots headshots and portraits and I shoot things.After that list, a 11-16 2.8 would be a good addition.Beyond there you are looking at more primes.Obviously all of the numbers are "flexible" I used the Canon ones.

  

Also, there was a DSLR lens in F/2.8 that I recall you guys discussing as a 'should get' piece of glass. I am looking into new glass at the end of the semester, what size was it you guys were talking about again?

J

If you shoot people you should invest in the cannon 2.8 70-200 USM ii. I'm sure Nikon offers something similar. I will say though that the Canon version is the absolute best in the biz.

  

I would add a 24-70 to Sean's list if you shoot more people than things. That is my only non Canon lens actually. I'm still on the fence for that decision. I saved a $600 or more at the time of purchase, got some VR but lost AF SPEED.

Thanks Sean and Matt. I am fortunate enough to have a friend in the pawn business who is happy to help, so I am hoping to have her browse the inventory to see what she can do.

BTW what is a 2x extender???

J

I talked to a competent painter this week and I got a quote. To have the car disassembled, media blasted, metal patches welded in, painted and reassembled, is around 12k before parts. The other route is to not do a ground up restoration, and just get it painted. That's still 6k to do right. I am on the fence, I would love to do it to the 9th°. But realize a lot of the effort would just be in vain in my eyes. What do you guys think?

what is sean building? i am way too out of touch

what is sean building? i am way too out of touch

Something similar to this, only lower and with an LS motor!

I talked to a competent painter this week and I got a quote. To have the car disassembled, media blasted, metal patches welded in, painted and reassembled, is around 12k before parts. The other route is to not do a ground up restoration, and just get it painted. That's still 6k to do right. I am on the fence, I would love to do it to the 9th°. But realize a lot of the effort would just be in vain in my eyes. What do you guys think?

I would do it right the first time. If you regret not doing it full tilt, what happens? You either live with regret, or spend the money to re-do it. If you do it to the full amount, and look at it and say you could have skated by with just the paint, your out less than re-doing it.

Plus if you decide to sell it later it increases the resale amount, and it would show great at the car show.

J

 

I talked to a competent painter this week and I got a quote. To have the car disassembled, media blasted, metal patches welded in, painted and reassembled, is around 12k before parts. The other route is to not do a ground up restoration, and just get it painted. That's still 6k to do right. I am on the fence, I would love to do it to the 9th°. But realize a lot of the effort would just be in vain in my eyes. What do you guys think?

I would do it right the first time. If you regret not doing it full tilt, what happens? You either live with regret, or spend the money to re-do it. If you do it to the full amount, and look at it and say you could have skated by with just the paint, your out less than re-doing it.

Plus if you decide to sell it later it increases the resale amount, and it would show great at the car show.

J

 

Just got off the phone with them. The total is 14,065 for show quality. I honestly have put so much work into this car, I know I would regret it. So ya, pretty much just pulled the trigger. Will have it media blasted by next Thursday. The dude don't mess around, and is on my level. 

what is sean building? i am way too out of touch

 

A vehicle he said he would never own again after his Silverado.

 

 

I talked to a competent painter this week and I got a quote. To have the car disassembled, media blasted, metal patches welded in, painted and reassembled, is around 12k before parts. The other route is to not do a ground up restoration, and just get it painted. That's still 6k to do right. I am on the fence, I would love to do it to the 9th°. But realize a lot of the effort would just be in vain in my eyes. What do you guys think?

I would do it right the first time. If you regret not doing it full tilt, what happens? You either live with regret, or spend the money to re-do it. If you do it to the full amount, and look at it and say you could have skated by with just the paint, your out less than re-doing it.

Plus if you decide to sell it later it increases the resale amount, and it would show great at the car show.

J

 

Just got off the phone with them. The total is 14,065 for show quality. I honestly have put so much work into this car, I know I would regret it. So ya, pretty much just pulled the trigger. Will have it media blasted by next Thursday. The dude don't mess around, and is on my level. 

 

 

What about doing some of the labor yourself?

I talked to a competent painter this week and I got a quote. To have the car disassembled, media blasted, metal patches welded in, painted and reassembled, is around 12k before parts. The other route is to not do a ground up restoration, and just get it painted. That's still 6k to do right. I am on the fence, I would love to do it to the 9th°. But realize a lot of the effort would just be in vain in my eyes. What do you guys think?

I would do it right the first time. If you regret not doing it full tilt, what happens? You either live with regret, or spend the money to re-do it. If you do it to the full amount, and look at it and say you could have skated by with just the paint, your out less than re-doing it.

Plus if you decide to sell it later it increases the resale amount, and it would show great at the car show.

J

Just got off the phone with them. The total is 14,065 for show quality. I honestly have put so much work into this car, I know I would regret it. So ya, pretty much just pulled the trigger. Will have it media blasted by next Thursday. The dude don't mess around, and is on my level.

I think that was the best decision. Local guy? Reputable?

J

I talked to a competent painter this week and I got a quote. To have the car disassembled, media blasted, metal patches welded in, painted and reassembled, is around 12k before parts. The other route is to not do a ground up restoration, and just get it painted. That's still 6k to do right. I am on the fence, I would love to do it to the 9th°. But realize a lot of the effort would just be in vain in my eyes. What do you guys think?

I would do it right the first time. If you regret not doing it full tilt, what happens? You either live with regret, or spend the money to re-do it. If you do it to the full amount, and look at it and say you could have skated by with just the paint, your out less than re-doing it.

Plus if you decide to sell it later it increases the resale amount, and it would show great at the car show.

J

Just got off the phone with them. The total is 14,065 for show quality. I honestly have put so much work into this car, I know I would regret it. So ya, pretty much just pulled the trigger. Will have it media blasted by next Thursday. The dude don't mess around, and is on my level.

What about doing some of the labor yourself?

To me that would be tripping over a dollar to pick up a dime. I am not trying to reengineer the process or the guys job. The headaches involved could easily be avoided for a few dollars more.

I picked a very competent painter for that very reason. I do not want to have to micromanage the job, just keep a hand in there enough to know the pulse. You have to remember I'm in the service field, and understand the creative process. Me trying to micromanage it is only going to fuck shit up.

I talked to a competent painter this week and I got a quote. To have the car disassembled, media blasted, metal patches welded in, painted and reassembled, is around 12k before parts. The other route is to not do a ground up restoration, and just get it painted. That's still 6k to do right. I am on the fence, I would love to do it to the 9th°. But realize a lot of the effort would just be in vain in my eyes. What do you guys think?

I would do it right the first time. If you regret not doing it full tilt, what happens? You either live with regret, or spend the money to re-do it. If you do it to the full amount, and look at it and say you could have skated by with just the paint, your out less than re-doing it.

Plus if you decide to sell it later it increases the resale amount, and it would show great at the car show.

J

Just got off the phone with them. The total is 14,065 for show quality. I honestly have put so much work into this car, I know I would regret it. So ya, pretty much just pulled the trigger. Will have it media blasted by next Thursday. The dude don't mess around, and is on my level.

I think that was the best decision. Local guy? Reputable?

J

He Is the best in the area. He specializes in restoring old cars, not collision repair. I have seen quite a few of his jobs, and he came highly recommended from several people I trust.

Oh, and after talking to him, I know he is doing it correctly.

I talked to a competent painter this week and I got a quote. To have the car disassembled, media blasted, metal patches welded in, painted and reassembled, is around 12k before parts. The other route is to not do a ground up restoration, and just get it painted. That's still 6k to do right. I am on the fence, I would love to do it to the 9th°. But realize a lot of the effort would just be in vain in my eyes. What do you guys think?

I would do it right the first time. If you regret not doing it full tilt, what happens? You either live with regret, or spend the money to re-do it. If you do it to the full amount, and look at it and say you could have skated by with just the paint, your out less than re-doing it.

Plus if you decide to sell it later it increases the resale amount, and it would show great at the car show.

J

Just got off the phone with them. The total is 14,065 for show quality. I honestly have put so much work into this car, I know I would regret it. So ya, pretty much just pulled the trigger. Will have it media blasted by next Thursday. The dude don't mess around, and is on my level.

I think that was the best decision. Local guy? Reputable?

J

He Is the best in the area. He specializes in restoring old cars, not collision repair. I have seen quite a few of his jobs, and he came highly recommended from several people I trust.

Sounds perfect man.

J

I would add a 24-70 to Sean's list if you shoot more people than things. That is my only non Canon lens actually. I'm still on the fence for that decision. I saved a $600 or more at the time of purchase, got some VR but lost AF SPEED.

24-70 is FF 17-55

To me it depends on your body. If it is crop, you need the 17 as 24 will make some indoor stuff impossible.

I shoot hand held and consume a ton of caffeine so I feel I made a good choice. Sometimes I do feel a hair faster AF could get me more shots....

The reality though is the 2.8 70-200 usm is ii is unbeatable for wildlife, kids, portraits, concerts, headshots.... Basically anything other than wide shots. The 24-70 is for group photos that are arranged or when I can't back up far enough.

Like the wedding in Italy. I figured the VR from Tamron would buy me more stops in the dark lit church and such. The wide pig was also something that was needed. The 1.2 was not as useful in Italy, but would have been for Paris.

The 50mm 1.2 and the 70-200 make up almost 75% of the shots on my body now however.

:-)

And for me the 17-55 makes up 99% of what I shoot.

Outside of portraits I rarely see the 50mm end of it.

I live pretty overly cautious FDA in my fridge.

My guess is you've broken a bunch of the rules.

Storage ONLY at under 40F or over 140F

Transport in less than an hour, much less without precautions

Freeze/cook immediately

Refridgerate for up to 4 days

Sure there are more. I have no problem at 5-7 days but I am very careful with my fridge. Messy as hell, but the temps are right and warm shit never goes in.

 

So you let stuff get to room temp before you put it in the fridge? 140 to room temp is probably more than an hour for a big cut of meat.

I have a chilling drawer in my fridge. I never let an hour occur outside of refridgeration.

I also use my fridge freezer as a frost collector. ie, for quick chilling of things for the fridge or for the initial freeze before the freezer. Defrosting or adding heat to your freezer is even worse than the fridge as not only is it unsafe, but it ruins food.

I try to keep a drawer in my freezer available for those times. Same with one of the "veggie" drawers in the fridge which all have a Quick chill option.

Nitto's ordered! Can't wait to cut the Michelin tires off!

 

http://www.nittotire.com/passenger-tires/motivo-all-season-ultra-high-performance-tire/

I'm about to order some 305 35 24 Nitto 420's myself

 

You will have to let me know what you think of them in the snow.

ROFL. 22's and snow tires will arrive next winter.

But what lens do you recommend for indoor close-ups of tattoos? I realize light and backdrop is a big part of it, I should be on the lower end of the number spectrum though correct?

- as for what we want to see out of your life, I'd kind of like a 'cooking with Sean' series. Little tips and tricks, and shit to make cooking at home simpler.

I'd be glad to help...but it is hard for me to dumb down things. I don't mean that in a mental way, but solely physical.ie, if a dish that I do the prep work on for 15 minutes and it takes you 2 hours will you still make it?Knife skills are the single most critical thing to learn in the kitchen. My friends regularly ask for a cooking class and I pretty much require they go to a knife skills class first, otherwise we spend all the time in teh world on prep and never get to cooking.Mies en place is the first and always followed rule in cooking. If it takes forever to get there though you will get frustrated.

I do think a knife course would certainly be beneficial for me. Where did you go to get your knife skills?

Sad that even though I grew up around bars and restaurants my drink making skills are average and my knife skills aren't even close to good.

J

I went to the school of hard knocks. Completely self taught. The only places I've learned is from copious amounts of Food network, Top Chef etc. I don't watch the shows for entertainment but to learn tidbits of what people who know more than me show. Too bad the producers don't get it as they normally cut everything useful off.

Shows even like Diners Drive ins and Dives have amazing capabilities to teach you things if that is what you watch for. My way would be slower to learn, I suggest a real kitchen store. Here in MN that would be at the Kithen Window.

 

 

 

 

I talked to a competent painter this week and I got a quote. To have the car disassembled, media blasted, metal patches welded in, painted and reassembled, is around 12k before parts. The other route is to not do a ground up restoration, and just get it painted. That's still 6k to do right. I am on the fence, I would love to do it to the 9th°. But realize a lot of the effort would just be in vain in my eyes. What do you guys think?

I would do it right the first time. If you regret not doing it full tilt, what happens? You either live with regret, or spend the money to re-do it. If you do it to the full amount, and look at it and say you could have skated by with just the paint, your out less than re-doing it.

Plus if you decide to sell it later it increases the resale amount, and it would show great at the car show.

J

Just got off the phone with them. The total is 14,065 for show quality. I honestly have put so much work into this car, I know I would regret it. So ya, pretty much just pulled the trigger. Will have it media blasted by next Thursday. The dude don't mess around, and is on my level.

What about doing some of the labor yourself?

To me that would be tripping over a dollar to pick up a dime. I am not trying to reengineer the process or the guys job. The headaches involved could easily be avoided for a few dollars more.

I picked a very competent painter for that very reason. I do not want to have to micromanage the job, just keep a hand in there enough to know the pulse. You have to remember I'm in the service field, and understand the creative process. Me trying to micromanage it is only going to fuck shit up.

 

 

Gotcha, wasn't saying you should pull the rug out from under him; I just didn't know if maybe he specializes in a particular field and you would be taking some off his plate by doing the "dirty" work.

 

Sounds like he's more of an artist though. Which is EXACTLY what you want for a paint job IMO

Also, there was a DSLR lens in F/2.8 that I recall you guys discussing as a 'should get' piece of glass. I am looking into new glass at the end of the semester, what size was it you guys were talking about again?J

"Goto" lenses in everyone's bag should be (crop sizes listed):17-55 2.850 1.4 (1.2 is even better)70-2002x extenderIf you start with those you are golden. Matt would start with the 70-200, I'd start with the 17-55. He shoots headshots and portraits and I shoot things.After that list, a 11-16 2.8 would be a good addition.Beyond there you are looking at more primes.Obviously all of the numbers are "flexible" I used the Canon ones.

  

Also, there was a DSLR lens in F/2.8 that I recall you guys discussing as a 'should get' piece of glass. I am looking into new glass at the end of the semester, what size was it you guys were talking about again?

J

If you shoot people you should invest in the cannon 2.8 70-200 USM ii. I'm sure Nikon offers something similar. I will say though that the Canon version is the absolute best in the biz.

  

I would add a 24-70 to Sean's list if you shoot more people than things. That is my only non Canon lens actually. I'm still on the fence for that decision. I saved a $600 or more at the time of purchase, got some VR but lost AF SPEED.

Thanks Sean and Matt. I am fortunate enough to have a friend in the pawn business who is happy to help, so I am hoping to have her browse the inventory to see what she can do.

BTW what is a 2x extender???

J

Turns a 200m into a 400m -> albeit with a step or few in fstop

I'd find someone else. do most of the prep work yourself and get a $3k paint job.

I would add a 24-70 to Sean's list if you shoot more people than things. That is my only non Canon lens actually. I'm still on the fence for that decision. I saved a $600 or more at the time of purchase, got some VR but lost AF SPEED.

24-70 is FF 17-55

To me it depends on your body. If it is crop, you need the 17 as 24 will make some indoor stuff impossible.

Ha... I have the 16-24 or whatever. I forgot that there is a zoom that versatile in the crop sensor.

DOH!

As an add on to the body comment, sensor size makes a huge difference.

I have a crop and FF. For people, I always grab my FF. It's a better body with better low light performance.

When shooting my friend racing his sports bike, the crop helped a shit load. My 70-200 with extender became a 640 or some such flimflam.

But what lens do you recommend for indoor close-ups of tattoos? I realize light and backdrop is a big part of it, I should be on the lower end of the number spectrum though correct?

50mm 1.4 for affordability.

I'd go test one. Easy to see if it will have enough reach and view as it is definitely a portrait style lens on a crop.