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Quick (home) audio question. I need to get at least 3 channels of amplification on the cheap.

Also trying to decide if I want to potentially replace my volume knobs in the rooms. If not, I would prefer to be able to control each channels' volume at the source. Controlling via LR fade would be fine.

Willing to make compromises on all of it. I'm scared to use the volume pots because I think they've destroyed multiple amps at this point. The only one that has survived them is the Adcom and I'm not going to ever hook it back up to them. When I connect to them with a multimeter, can I trust the resistance value I'm getting?

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3 hours ago, sandt38 said:

I have decided to buy used or refurb wherever possible until I understand what I am doing.

Then what we said worked.  Really glad you got over the new portion.  If you lose $50 on a lens it isn't a big deal, but losing $300 on 2 would really hurt.  I am not opposed to what you are doing now that you looked at it from a used perspective.  I probably would have steered you towards a single lens to do that.  The Tamron 18-270 takes as good of pictures as either of the lenses you bought, but is a single lens.  Not changing makes it easier to determine what you really would end up with and it could be a walk around lens later on, although I find I never put mine on which means I've got $500 into a paperweight. :Doh:

3 hours ago, sandt38 said:

Wanting polarized filter for landscape shots.

CircularPolarizer.jpg

Ah, when you said filter kit I assumed they upsold you UV filters.  A circular polarizer is critical on the wide angle, not really on the zoom.

The difference above is more pissy white balance than the need for a polarizer.  That of course is one other thing.  Shoot in RAW and use some software that will allow you to adjust the white balance manually.  Personally I can't live without light room as it also let's you cheat dynamic range with the shadows and highlights as well as black/white which makes a monstrous difference.  Considerably more than the above btw.

3 hours ago, sandt38 said:

I'm not opposed to that. One of the reasons I grabbed the WiFi module was to remote trigger from my phone or tablet. Without having to worry about movement from triggering I am good with a cheaper tripod.

Don't need wifi for that, just use the 2 second trigger.  My Canon has that built in and I have really used it only for what you state.  That is chasing golden hour.  Finding a spot where I can sit and have a drink that is within 10' of my camera.  Take a picture every 10 minutes or so as the light changes waiting for the right moment to observe later in software.

47 minutes ago, MKader17 said:

Quick (home) audio question. I need to get at least 3 channels of amplification on the cheap.

Also trying to decide if I want to potentially replace my volume knobs in the rooms. If not, I would prefer to be able to control each channels' volume at the source. Controlling via LR fade would be fine.

Willing to make compromises on all of it. I'm scared to use the volume pots because I think they've destroyed multiple amps at this point. The only one that has survived them is the Adcom and I'm not going to ever hook it back up to them. When I connect to them with a multimeter, can I trust the resistance value I'm getting?

I installed volume pots on some Adcom amps at a bar 15 years ago and they are still running strong...

How cheap?

3 hours ago, sandt38 said:

 

I am certain I will have questions for you guys on set up and use. Please bear in mind that I am a total n00b and my questions may seem moronic, but I don't know shit about a real camera, so go easy on me.

Better to ask questions here than to read on some dumb forum.  Camera forums are worse than Caraudio.com.  The reviews are pitiful and ideas ridiculous.  Obviously exceptions to every generality, but between a few of us we can surely answer and point you in the right direction.

The best method of learning is to try to control as much as you can and see what it does.  Go experiment with different settings and review them in the metadata for what worked and what didn't.  The only hard part for you is that you are going to have a seriously impossible time getting any bokeh in portraits as your lenses are too slow.  You can, but it will require that you get the background much further away than with a fast lens.  Exactly why in my house the 50mm lives on the camera.

1 hour ago, MKader17 said:

Quick (home) audio question. I need to get at least 3 channels of amplification on the cheap.

Also trying to decide if I want to potentially replace my volume knobs in the rooms. If not, I would prefer to be able to control each channels' volume at the source. Controlling via LR fade would be fine.

Willing to make compromises on all of it. I'm scared to use the volume pots because I think they've destroyed multiple amps at this point. The only one that has survived them is the Adcom and I'm not going to ever hook it back up to them. When I connect to them with a multimeter, can I trust the resistance value I'm getting?

3 channels of amplification, going active?

 

So in the big picture, I have 2 speakers in the bedroom, bathroom and dining room ( I also have 4 speakers in the living room, but i use the BIB's instead). I only use 1 speaker in each room because it's all you need (plus the speakers face each other directly in bathroom and dining room, which I bet cause some cancellation).

I am selling my house and am looking for an inexpensive way to put power to these 3. I did have a Dayton T-Amp but i think pot issues wrecked it. IIRC, when turning up the pot to full I end up with 3.2 Ohms resistance and the Dayton Amp only tolerates 4 ohms.

 

Soo....  You seeking new challenges elsewhere then or just changing houses?  

If it were me, I think I'd just wire them in with the in wall volume pots and leave them be.  Let the next home owners actually hook them up, tie the wires up nice and pretty wherever they go to, label them, and leave them.  Getting a house ready to sell is enough of a hassle.  

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Working on getting an HKS y-pipe, mid-pipe, and hi-po exhaust for theIS on the crazy cheap only slightly used.  As in all in, all 3 shipped, for less than just the exhaust new.  I hadn't planned to do that much on the exhaust, but this is a deal that is hard to pass up.  MAYBE, at best 11bhps increase overall.  So low expectations for minimal increase.

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

Just wire them all in series parallel to the adcom.  Bypass all the extra volume controls and call it a day.

 

Agreed.

If you need another amp for such purposes, I've got an ART SLA-1 rack amp, 100x2 I think, you can borrow for the cost of shipping it. 

I helped my brother get a house ready to sell a few months ago, WAY to much work.  Its going to be someone else's problem, take the easy way.  

10 hours ago, MKader17 said:

 When I connect to them with a multimeter, can I trust the resistance value I'm getting?

No. Dynamic load cannot be measured with a multimeter.

9 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Then what we said worked.  Really glad you got over the new portion.  If you lose $50 on a lens it isn't a big deal, but losing $300 on 2 would really hurt.  I am not opposed to what you are doing now that you looked at it from a used perspective.  I probably would have steered you towards a single lens to do that.  The Tamron 18-270 takes as good of pictures as either of the lenses you bought, but is a single lens.  Not changing makes it easier to determine what you really would end up with and it could be a walk around lens later on, although I find I never put mine on which means I've got $500 into a paperweight. :Doh:

Would it make any difference if I told you I have just a shade over $200 in the 2 lenses?

9 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Don't need wifi for that, just use the 2 second trigger.  My Canon has that built in and I have really used it only for what you state.  That is chasing golden hour.  Finding a spot where I can sit and have a drink that is within 10' of my camera.  Take a picture every 10 minutes or so as the light changes waiting for the right moment to observe later in software.

I can also send the shot immediately to the device to post on social media, or text, or whatever. I really got it for several reasons.

 

10 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Ah, when you said filter kit I assumed they upsold you UV filters.  A circular polarizer is critical on the wide angle, not really on the zoom.

The difference above is more pissy white balance than the need for a polarizer.  That of course is one other thing.  Shoot in RAW and use some software that will allow you to adjust the white balance manually.  Personally I can't live without light room as it also let's you cheat dynamic range with the shadows and highlights as well as black/white which makes a monstrous difference.  Considerably more than the above btw.

Compared to Photoshop? I have CC2014.

4 hours ago, Aaron Clinton said:

Working on getting an HKS y-pipe, mid-pipe, and hi-po exhaust for theIS on the crazy cheap only slightly used.  As in all in, all 3 shipped, for less than just the exhaust new.  I hadn't planned to do that much on the exhaust, but this is a deal that is hard to pass up.  MAYBE, at best 11bhps increase overall.  So low expectations for minimal increase.

Sounds like a good project for the new garage. :)

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