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1 hour ago, sandt38 said:

If I'm boring you guys, let me know. Just wanting to show the stages my buddy uses for his detail work... and how damn well he is treating my car. I'm really fortunate that I have a friend who does this as well as he does.

More info about methods and this clear coat please.

A hint at cost would be interesting.

And a recommendation in Tx Please :P

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12 hours ago, sandt38 said:

If I'm boring you guys, let me know. Just wanting to show the stages my buddy uses for his detail work... and how damn well he is treating my car. I'm really fortunate that I have a friend who does this as well as he does.

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Boring us?  Fuck no.  This is hardcore porn.

22 hours ago, MKader17 said:

More info about methods and this clear coat please.

A hint at cost would be interesting.

And a recommendation in Tx Please :P

Aside from what he is sending me, I don't know much of his methods. The coating is something that has been seeing the rounds for about 7 or 8 years. It is applied like a epoxy, but it is super slippery, and extremely hydrophobic. Any damage that occurs to it can be fixed with a simple wet sand and polish, similar to any painted surface, without reducing the properties of the coating. It can also be stripped and reapplied when it shows signs of wear. Effectively it becomes a barrier to avoid damage to the paint. Since the paint on Subarus is so soft, I wanted the best protection I could get. The coating eliminates the need for waxing, and really the ability to wax. Until it starts to receive scratches after a year or 2, it will be so slippery that it will cause wax to roll off it.

Locally, a shop called The Shine Shop charges roughly $1500 for the paint correction and coating alone! The cost of the total detail for my car from Mark, as I am presenting it here, is $1200. He doesn't have the overhead that a place like The Shine Shop has, and he passes it on to his customers. He is fully accredited, and insured. He is charging me $200. Effectively his cost for just for the coating. He has a Ranger that needed heads, brakes, a water pump, tune up, and ABS light fixed. I did that work in trade, plus I get a free freshen up before winter.

He is involved in the detailing community. I could ask him for recommendations in Texas. What city center should I ask about?

18 minutes ago, topgun said:

I don't mean any offense, but he has to be one anally attentive SOB to do work like that.  Looks fantastic though.  I sure couldn't do it.  

That's why I trust my car to him.

 

Wheels polished and tires are prepped for coating.

 

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Matte finish tire coating is cured and completely dry to the touch. This coating is a polymer-based semi-permanent dressing that will last 3-6 months under normal driving conditions!! It forms a flexible dry film that will not smudge, sling, or attract dirt/dust like traditional tire dressings do. Once treated this coating is NOT damaged by detergents, pressure washers, car washes, acids, alkalis, or road salt.

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First layer of 22PLE VM1 Extreme applied to wheel lips, faces, and barrels. The second coat will be applied after they have fully cured. The semi-pernament protective coating will protect the wheels from harmful road grime and brake dust build up. The high silica-content glass barrier provides an amazing level of gloss and will provide up to 2-3 years of protection! Also makes cleaning the wheels easier and helps keep them clean longer as well!

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I truly miss having the space and time to detail like that.

1 hour ago, Aaron Clinton said:

I truly miss having the space and time to detail like that.

I don't think I could do that. I admire the amount of effort and detail that goes into this kind of work, I also admire the skill and patience, but it is not for me.

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Before polishing begins, a thorough inspection of the paint is performed using various lights and a paint depth gauge to assess the condition of the paint and look for defects. In my opinion, what makes a true professional detailer is someone who has the tools and knowledge to fully assess a vehicles paint, use that info to correct paint defects, and at the same time leave as much clear coat as possible. This paint depth gauge allows me to accurately assess the current condition and history of the paint. These readings will tell me if there are any areas where the clear coat is thin (due to heavy sanding/compounding or even sprayed at the factory) and to be very cautious working that area or avoid alltogether. It will also indicate if a spot or panel has been repaired/repainted which may react differently to the correction process used on the rest of the vehicle. So why am I even bothering using it on a brand new vehicle that the owner has never had detailed? Well, I believe you can never be too cautious and repairs DO happen to brand new vehicles at dealerships.

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Mark only has one tool box... like a damn mirror!

 

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Seth your friend truly does amazing work. If I were closer he would have a couple more to do.

I do wish Billy were here to tell you his opinion... ;)

Thanks guys. I know I am fortunate, beyond belief. I actually met Mark 15 years ago on a car audio forum meet up in NC. I've seen him build some impressive vehicles. He's in to lowriders. All are featured in magazines. Then he sells them. He currently has a newish slammed Miata. His work is truly stunning. Like me he trusts very few people with his cars. It makes me proud that he trusts no one with his vehicles but me, and it has been that way since he saw me work well over a decade ago.

I'm dying to pick it up tomorrow!

Put these new bitches on today! Weird the weight to balance them was very little.

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5 minutes ago, sandt38 said:

Thanks guys. I know I am fortunate, beyond belief. I actually met Mark 15 years ago on a car audio forum meet up in NC. I've seen him build some impressive vehicles. He's in to lowriders. All are featured in magazines. Then he sells them. He currently has a newish slammed Miata. His work is truly stunning. Like me he trusts very few people with his cars. It makes me proud that he trusts no one with his vehicles but me, and it has been that way since he saw me work well over a decade ago.

I'm dying to pick it up tomorrow!

Amazing! Wish this had it's own thread. There's a ton of info & pics that are mind blowing.

20 minutes ago, Jay-C76 said:

Amazing! Wish this had it's own thread. There's a ton of info & pics that are mind blowing.

I guess I could do that. It could give people a better idea of the depths a real detail, and detailer, will go to make a car look like new. I can also grab other pics and info to share from him. He works on everything from Teslas, to Porsches, down to measly Subarus and Honda Oddesseys.

 

Where should I put it?

 

OK, so I have a pair of Phoenix Gold Ti 12D subs from ~2003. They are barely used, in nearly perfect shape, come in original boxes with all original paperwork. What do you guys think they are worth?

 

13 minutes ago, sandt38 said:

OK, so I have a pair of Phoenix Gold Ti 12D subs from ~2003. They are barely used, in nearly perfect shape, come in original boxes with all original paperwork. What do you guys think they are worth?

 

About 40 bucks. But ill give you 80 because we are bros.

 

:D

22 minutes ago, sandt38 said:

OK, so I have a pair of Phoenix Gold Ti 12D subs from ~2003. They are barely used, in nearly perfect shape, come in original boxes with all original paperwork. What do you guys think they are worth?

 

If they're Elites, they're worth quite a bit.  If not, I have no idea.  Subs are all over the place in the used market unless they're rare.

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