March 20, 201312 yr Admin Ryan, are you ever wanting to do an Orioles/Yankees here? You're the only male Yankees fan I would be ok bringing to a game. Really??? Are the rest of us total assholes?J Didn't remeber you're a Yankees fan.
March 20, 201312 yr Sean, what are the details on your home security. I'll have a solid internet connection at my house (50 Mbps) so it will be possible.Huh? What does internet have to do with home security and what are you looking for?Assumed you need solid Internet for a remote connection. At the least I'm looking for door and window sensors and some loud ass alarms. Ability to call cops, and or fire dept is good. Remote video surveillance would be cool, any other form of home automation is also a plus.You need a fast enough connection to equal RS232 Mine was all serial for a while. The actual sensors are even on a slower bus. You don't need millions of times per second as milliseconds don't matter. What you do need is something hardwired to every single entry. Wireless stuff sucks IMO.
March 20, 201312 yr Today's alarms have built in GSM modems they use in cell phones so practically impossible to cut the communication line..Not built in, it's a module. Usually a couple hundred bucks, but can be had cheaper if you are a wholesaler. I know one
March 20, 201312 yr I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to
March 20, 201312 yr I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to Pop rivets?
March 20, 201312 yr Figured out why injectors 2 & 3 aren't working on my truck and cause it to run rough at low and mid rpm ranges.... The god damn things aren't even hooked up. No fricking wires to them. I'm actually somewhat impressed now that it runs as well as it does two injectors down. I've just been thinking they were crapped out and stuck open and had to buy new ones, been to lazy to drop the money on something that just runs around town but now that I know the problem I get to pull the intake off and play electrical fixit man.
March 20, 201312 yr I do feel somewhat stupid that its the wiring that's bad and its taken me this long to track it down. Needless to say it never fails to start and get me from a to b so I haven't looked to hard but it sure will be nice to have a proper running vehicle again.
March 20, 201312 yr I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to Pop rivets?Stainless self piercing, 3/16" ones. Hell on drill bits. Cobalt/Ti or bust I guess. Thought maybe there was a trick
March 20, 201312 yr Go slow, good drill bit, 135* split point a normal drill bit will be fine no need for TiNi coatings, cobalt probably isn't needed either. Cutting fluid wouldn't hurt either. Keep the drill bit under ~60 surface feet per minute, (4*60)/dia of bit. Drill bits from most stores suck, Fastenal sucks. McMaster carr has good stuff, normally from Precision twist drill. Shoot me a PM some time...
March 20, 201312 yr A dremel with a cutoff wheel might work. At work when we have to remove stainless rivits that is what we at times.
March 20, 201312 yr I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to Drill slightly larger than the mandrel, head pops off, rest falls out. Pretty simple.
March 20, 201312 yr Figured out why injectors 2 & 3 aren't working on my truck and cause it to run rough at low and mid rpm ranges.... The god damn things aren't even hooked up. No fricking wires to them. I'm actually somewhat impressed now that it runs as well as it does two injectors down. I've just been thinking they were crapped out and stuck open and had to buy new ones, been to lazy to drop the money on something that just runs around town but now that I know the problem I get to pull the intake off and play electrical fixit man. Wow, um, how the hell could you NOT notice that?
March 20, 201312 yr Go slow, good drill bit, 135* split point a normal drill bit will be fine no need for TiNi coatings, cobalt probably isn't needed either. Cutting fluid wouldn't hurt either. Keep the drill bit under ~60 surface feet per minute, (4*60)/dia of bit. Drill bits from most stores suck, Fastenal sucks. McMaster carr has good stuff, normally from Precision twist drill. Shoot me a PM some time...I LOVE Fastenal bits! I get the Cleveland ones though, not the cheap HSS shit. Parts Master or something like that, they have awesome cryo bits. I used to buy those exclusively, but that was when I wasn't drilling 1" stainless so often.
March 20, 201312 yr I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to Pop rivets? Stainless self piercing, 3/16" ones. Hell on drill bits. Cobalt/Ti or bust I guess. Thought maybe there was a trick If you have a steady hand, you can always grind the heads off as well.
March 20, 201312 yr Tapered carbide burr would knock it out too without an issue.Another good choice.
March 20, 201312 yr Crown Black for the 1st time tonight........gotta say, FTW!......just sayin in a drunk state of mind
March 20, 201312 yr Ryan, are you ever wanting to do an Orioles/Yankees here? You're the only male Yankees fan I would be ok bringing to a game. Really??? Are the rest of us total assholes? J Why ask a rhetorical question? Cause some of us are okay. Ryan, are you ever wanting to do an Orioles/Yankees here? You're the only male Yankees fan I would be ok bringing to a game. Really??? Are the rest of us total assholes?JDidn't remeber you're a Yankees fan. Good point. J
March 20, 201312 yr alright, so I switch to the mobile skin a couple days ago because when I would mis spell something and have to delete a couple of letters it would shut down my Opera browser on my phone. the issue I'm having now is that I can't get the desktop skin back. can somebody help me??????Are you using Firefox on your desktop? If so, clear all the cookies from ssa forum. I only use my phone. I switched from desktop skin to mobile skin because of the issues I was having with the site and now when I click the button to change the forum skin back to desktop it won't change. I have deleted everything in my Opera browser and still nothing.
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