Is there any recommended size fastners to use on the N3? From what i saw the holes were only about 1/8".

I like to use 1/4 20 bolts with threaded wood inserts.

Yeah thats what I was aiming for but didnt look like the 1/4" would fit....What size threaded wood inerts and any good place to pick some up?

I like to use 1/4 20 bolts with threaded wood inserts.

 

 

Yeah thats what I was aiming for but didnt look like the 1/4" would fit....What size threaded wood inerts and any good place to pick some up?

yes pls.... 

http://www.google.com/m?q=t%20nuts&client=ms-opera-mobile&channel=new

http://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Threads-Hardness-Tensile-Strength/dp/B002KT43MU/ref=pd_sim_indust_6

 

I use these and have no problems.  I used to use the T-nuts but they were a pain if you took subs in and out changing things up.

doesn't using these fastners leave air gaps?? like between the screw and the fastner? or is it too small for it to do anything?

^^^Not really. If you are really worried about it you could use pipe dope in the threads.

I use t-nuts and never had an issue with them, you can get them at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, Fastanal, etc  

 

^^^Not really. If you are really worried about it you could use pipe dope in the threads.

I was gonna ask that next... lol Thanks

1/4-20 black oxide socket head capscrew with Hurricane nuts.

 

If you drill your holes right, you can take the driver in and out unlimited times without anything getting messed up.

shogen- technically the tighter the bolt the better the seal will be because of the pressure on the threads.

Edited February 25, 201312 yr by ChILL

1/4-20 black oxide socket head capscrew with Hurricane nuts.

 

If you drill your holes right, you can take the driver in and out unlimited times without anything getting messed up.

is the word lol.

 

I just use the largest screws I can find.

If you can't drill the holes right, other stuff is probably jacked up also, lol...

If you can't drill the holes right, other stuff is probably jacked up also, lol...

lol... this

I was going to use hurricane nuts, but found our local fastenal had the threaded wood inserts cheaper than Lowes could imagine. I got 16 inserts with bolts and washers for just under $7.00.

 

I was going to use hurricane nuts, but found our local fastenal had the threaded wood inserts cheaper than Lowes could imagine. I got 16 inserts with bolts and washers for just under $7.00.

 

socket type screws?

Allen wrench. I have different length shoulders too. They fixed me up good.

Ben your not concerned the more tighten screws there insterts might strip and loose there grip.

I tested that thought and put amazing goop before I screwed it into the mdf and was suprised at the weight it held. If done correctly you will not have an issue.

After having my subs stolen I tend to add 2 of these. On each sub as well

 

 

Except i get the 2" long ones and whip out the air tool to zip them down.

A thief would be all day with a ratchet.

 

Just my 2c

Thanks for the input and suggestions everybody.

I guess i went extreme on my wall then.

 

I usd the Lowes Premium grade wood screws that come with their own Torx bit.

 

I use them on about 4-5 of the 8 mounting holes on the subs.

 

The last holes remaining, i epoxied steel flat on the inside and outside of the baffle cut just right.

It is then drilled, tapped then the wood drilled out.

 

The same type of bolts 95honda suggested are then used to drive through the sub, wood and steel and secured.  I then overtighten them with a nut on the back of every bolt, but be very careful.

 

This technique can snap the wood so do not overtighten too much.  You will hear the wood starting to crack when it's time to stop tightening.

I guess i went extreme on my wall then.

 

I usd the Lowes Premium grade wood screws that come with their own Torx bit.

 

I use them on about 4-5 of the 8 mounting holes on the subs.

 

The last holes remaining, i epoxied steel flat on the inside and outside of the baffle cut just right.

It is then drilled, tapped then the wood drilled out.

 

The same type of bolts 95honda suggested are then used to drive through the sub, wood and steel and secured.  I then overtighten them with a nut on the back of every bolt, but be very careful.

 

This technique can snap the wood so do not overtighten too much.  You will hear the wood starting to crack when it's time to stop tightening.

Are these them? 

 

 

Random question about mounting .... is it okay if your screw goes through the wood ? For example.... double baffle of 3/4" MDF .... and you use a 2" wood screw, does that lessen the tightness of the mount?

I guess i went extreme on my wall then.

I usd the Lowes Premium grade wood screws that come with their own Torx bit.

I use them on about 4-5 of the 8 mounting holes on the subs.

The last holes remaining, i epoxied steel flat on the inside and outside of the baffle cut just right.

It is then drilled, tapped then the wood drilled out.

The same type of bolts 95honda suggested are then used to drive through the sub, wood and steel and secured. I then overtighten them with a nut on the back of every bolt, but be very careful.

This technique can snap the wood so do not overtighten too much. You will hear the wood starting to crack when it's time to stop tightening.

Are these them?

Random question about mounting .... is it okay if your screw goes through the wood ? For example.... double baffle of 3/4" MDF .... and you use a 2" wood screw, does that lessen the tightness of the mount?

As long as you don't strip the screw while tightening it down.