How would I do this?with out fring my pcm and etc?

What's the point?  Are you competing where you need the small amount of extra power to measure one tenth above normal?  You will NEVER hear a change, so why bother.  BTW, that voltage would likely do no harm to anything, but it won't do any good either, so it's pointless.

What's the point?  Are you competing where you need the small amount of extra power to measure one tenth above normal?  You will NEVER hear a change, so why bother.  BTW, that voltage would likely do no harm to anything, but it won't do any good either, so it's pointless.

yes I plan on competeing later on.I wasn't thinking when I order my icons,should have gotten dual 1s instead of dual 2s.I have it wired at .5 ohms.I figured it would work better at 16.8v

All these veiws an nobody knows nothin

Everyone knows how to do it, it's just pointless, so nobody's going to comment.

Lol sorry.I should have asked is it ok to run this amp at .5 ohms without the 16.8v

an IBEW worker asking electrical advice? WWHHAAAAAAAAAT?

Some amps make way more power up on voltage.

 

Take a 40.1 for example. On 12v, people are getting 4-5k, on 16v they're getting 8500-9500. Granted this is a smaller amp and the gains won't be that large and I'm sure op is saying 16.8 charging, so 14v? When you're competing every bit of power counts. 

an IBEW worker asking electrical advice? WWHHAAAAAAAAAT?

You do realize the electrical field is a vast monster and elecrtonics and electrical systems are not one in the same.

98% of my job is ac not dc.and I'm not a mechanic.didn't wanna fry somethin important

Are you talking about charging to 16.8?

I'm not sure to be honest,lol.the manual said I could run at .5 ohms with 16.8vdc.with this amp.will it be ok with less than that at .5 ohms?

I wouldn't charge above 15, 5 especially if it's a newer car. My 2011 Mustang freaks out at anything above that. However when running at .5 you'll need more current not voltage.

I put my dmm on it after work yesterday.show 14.9vdc at the amp at idle.I haven't checked for voltage drop yet.but I already know it has a severe case of it.within a min of me pushin it hard.it. starts cuttin in and out.however I still gotta upgrade my alternator and get a second battery.

an IBEW worker asking electrical advice? WWHHAAAAAAAAAT?

You do realize the electrical field is a vast monster and elecrtonics and electrical systems are not one in the same.

thanks for clearing that up Tirefryr.

Anytime.  I'm a former IBEW electrician.

Missing Link Audio and check out the MLA module. They make one with selective voltage to charge at 15.1 then higher at 16 volts when selected.

Missing Link Audio and check out the MLA module. They make one with selective voltage to charge at 15.1 then higher at 16 volts when selected.

cool,I'll look into it thx.zzperfornace has a voltage booster for my car as well.that adds about 2 more volts.for around $25 or $30.

It was 1.2v at $21.99

Isnt that bad if you have 12volt batteries running anything that high? would you have to switch out batteries and run 14volts?

Edited April 3, 201312 yr by Dictator

Isnt that bad if you have 12volt batteries running anything that high? would you have to switch out batteries and run 14volts?

I don't see why it would I'm charging 14.9v an its all stock

Does anyone know what the max load this amp pulls at full tilt?I do not have a dc amp clamp,only ac

Edited April 26, 201312 yr by garychurch84

Does anyone know what the max load this amp pulls at full tilt?I do not have a dc amp clamp,only ac

at max it should pull right below the amps fuse rating. at least normally from what I understand.

Does anyone know what the max load this amp pulls at full tilt?I do not have a dc amp clamp,only ac

Depends.

 

If we assume it's around 70% efficient, which is about average for a class D amp, and it's operating at 14.4V it'd pull right around 200A when going balls to the wall.  If the voltage or efficiency is actually lower or if the power output is actually higher than 2kw then the amperage is going to increase.

 

Actual draw is going to be situation specific.  It's going to depend on the efficiency you're achieving, the power output you are running, and the voltage is running on.