In this episode of "Car Audio Fabrication" I share the proper way to utilize T-Nuts in an install.

 

 

The advantages of T Nuts are as follows:

• Screws can be removed several times if you need to access the inside of the enclosure with no worry of srtipping or degrading the thread quality (like what would occur with wood screws into wood)
• More secure mounting, they cannot be pulled loose from the mounting surface as occurs with wood screws.

Other notes:

• Adding a dab of super glue before securing the t nut to the wood can prevent them from falling into the enclosure before installing. 
• Using a size down from the shank of the t nut for your drill hole allows for a tighter squeeze on the nut. 
• Hurricane nuts are also available which "turn" into the mounting surface rather than bite.

I hope you guys enjoy! Discuss below and if you enjoy the content Subscribe!

 

~Mark

What kinda nuts...

 

T's Nuts!!

What kinda nuts...

 

T's Nuts!!

lulz were had

At 3:27 of the vid where it shows all your T-nuts installed it appears they all hang over into the woofer cutout. I would think on large basket woofers they could possibly interfere or rub against the basket hanging over like that or is it not a concern? A lot of baskets angle down so I assume it's probably not as issue most of the time but just wondered what the deal was with that.

At 3:27 of the vid where it shows all your T-nuts installed it appears they all hang over into the woofer cutout. I would think on large basket woofers they could possibly interfere or rub against the basket hanging over like that or is it not a concern? A lot of baskets angle down so I assume it's probably not as issue most of the time but just wondered what the deal was with that.

I noticed that too polish. I have the same tnuts that I ordered but ended up not using them just for that reason. Granted I didn't try it, but I didn't want to drill holes that may not have been usable.

i use steel flat on the other side of the baffle...

 

Lol, lot stronger than T or hurricane, impossible to accidentally loosen when driving bolts in and out of it and even mass loads the baffle for you in case you want to anchor something off of it.

So you tap the steel with threads for the bolts? I am not sure if I am picturing what you're describing correctly, do you have a pic of one by chance?

I don't have any pics of it but yea, this is what i do-

 

I'll take some 3/16" thick steel flat, about 1.25" wide and cut small lengths about 2-3" long around the mounting hole with a bandsaw.

 

I then clamp them on the back part of the baffle and start marking where i'm going to mechanically fasten them onto the baffle.

 

I then drill 2 holes at each far end of each steel and tap them.

 

I then mix up some Fasco 110 and apply it all pieces and clamp them onto the baffle then drive bolts through the tapped areas through the baffles and secure them with nuts anyways for super tight install.

 

I then wait 24hrs... 

 

After that, i then come back and drill out the holes to be used to hold the sub in place.

 

This drill bit will need to drive through the steel.  I HIGHLY suggest using a 1\4 20 or 28 bolt for the subs if you want extreme handling ability.  Make sure you use appropriate bit size, enlarge basket holes on sub if necessary for this size bolt and drill slow but steady once you hit the steel so you do not break the bit in the baffle.

 

Once all the holes are drilled, then i get behind the baffle and tap each hole.

 

This whole process takes about 48-72hrs from start to finish.

 

Then i mount the sub, drive the bolts through and secure them with nuts too.

 

To know when the nuts are tight enough, slowly turn them until you hear your baffle start to creak and if you hear it "crack", stop immediately, you are done with that nut, hehe.

I have tested properly installed Hurricane nuts in 3/4" MDF.  I was able to strip the threads with an impact gun before the nut started spinning.  It doesn't get much stronger than that...

damn.. did you glue it with Jesus glue?

Nope.  If followed the instructions, used a drill press set exactly right with the right bit.  I also have used these on the last 100 or so drivers.   I have never had one come loose or spin, even with the "torque of god" applied...

Nope.  If followed the instructions, used a drill press set exactly right with the right bit.  I also have used these on the last 100 or so drivers.   I have never had one come loose or spin, even with the "torque of god" applied...

 

Haha I need to get some more these, I used them before, but never put them through such a rigorous test, where do you get yours from?

Parts Express.  I mostly use 1/4-20 when possible...

I've found the best bet for taking care of the nut hanging over the edge of the hole can be taken care of with a few simple steps.

 

After drilling your holes in the baffle slide the bolt through the hole and thread the T/hurricane nut on backwards.  Mark the amount hanging over with a marker or something similar.  Remove the nut from the bolt and use a grinder or similar tool to remove the part of the nut that would otherwise be sticking out into the mounting hole.  Then install as normal keeping the area the material was removed from lined up with the mounting hole.  Depending on the frame of the driver and how well it's centered in the hole when you mark the screw/bolt hole locations it's entirely possible a whole tang or barb on a regular Tnut could be overhanging which is where I would suggest following the tips with utilizing glue to ensure the nut stays put, or use a hurricane nut.

If you cut the driver hole perfectly, the Hurricane nuts don't hang over on both cast and stamped baskets.  Again, this requires a perfect driver cutout with less than 1/16" oversize...

I have tested properly installed Hurricane nuts in 3/4" MDF.  I was able to strip the threads with an impact gun before the nut started spinning.  It doesn't get much stronger than that...

 

I have never seen a hurricane nut installed. I have always used t-nuts over them. You wouldn't by chance have a video of someone installing one properly by chance would you? Youtube has failed me on showing me this. I am interested in this.

If you cut the driver hole perfectly, the Hurricane nuts don't hang over on both cast and stamped baskets.  Again, this requires a perfect driver cutout with less than 1/16" oversize...

 

 

True, but I would venture to guess that 90% of the guys doing it don't get the hole that perfect.  I never got that close until I picked up the circle jigs and even then I've cut them slightly oversized because the manufacturer didn't specify the cutout size that accurately.

Sure, but then again, when use T-nuts or hurricane nuts if you can't even cut a proper circle?  If you can't cut a circle then you probably aren't going to install the fasteners right and you'll end up with all the problems everyone is always talking about with stripping, cross threading and them backing out...

 

BTW, just look at the picture of a Hurricane nut on Parts Express.  You drill a hole and knock it in with a hammer or cinch it down with a fastener and a washer prior to driver install.  I doubt a video will show you anything usefull...