Ive searched ca.com ive searched here a little bit and i even asked a dedicated forum for my car but i have a 2000 toyota camry with a 2.2l and im trying to do the big 3 on it. But with all the wires in wire loom and such However doing it is alot harder than my s10. So my question is can i just add 0gauge wire and not mess with the stock wiring? Or is this a no go? Reason i thought i could do it is becauase i see alot of you guys run multiple strands on 0 gauge instead of just one strand. Any help would be great.

No, you may see people run multiple RUNS or cables, not strands.

 

Second, you are not suppose to replace anyway but add.

 

Every power cable that you add needs to be fused.

What does your electric and system consist of?

 

And no, leaving the stock wires and adding more is not a problem at all. As a matter of fact it's better to leave it, just adds to the overall wire thickness.

I leave the stock wire alone and just add 1/0 wire for my big 3. The only time I replace the stock wire is when its too old, falling apart or corroded real bad.

Excellent Thank you for the help guys. Sorry don't know the whole audio lingo. Couldn't think of another word for strand at the time of the post lol will def be fusing it. Factory alt is a 90amp will be getting a 180amp for it, two yellow tops

Edited April 7, 201312 yr by Billetproof97'

Hmm been looking for a battery and it appears shipping one here to germany is going to be harder than i thought. Suggestions please?

If any local place sells deep cycle AGM batteries you can pretty much use any brand. You just want to stick with AGM type since they are sealed and can be mounted inside the cabin without being in a vented battery box.

 

Edit - AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat (If you search AGM Battery on Amazon you'll see there are lots of options)

Edited April 8, 201312 yr by Polish

Hopefully they ship overseas. At this point i dont care what it is as long as it can support my electrical needs with two batteries.

Don't waste your money on shipping heavy ass batteries, man. Just find something local.

Will do thankyou for the advice. Now comes the fun part... Maybe my local car care center on post has something. Or else i will be hunting for a german AGM battery

No, you may see people run multiple RUNS or cables, not strands.

 

Second, you are not suppose to replace anyway but add.

 

Every power cable that you add needs to be fused.

He means power wires the grounds don't need to be fused.

Its all good guys. Im just glad i got some help. And learned a little audio lingo. Its hard to get help on ca.com or a dedicated toyota forum.

If the BX/PX doesn't have any (they do at Ramstein) just have someone ship you an AGM via APO.  Just don't put that it is a battery on the customs form.  Put somthing else like weights.  If it is under 75 lbs, they won't check...

I'd just piggyback the alt to the batt positive, fused of course. But I would trace the two gounds from batt to frame/body and batt to engine block and replace the existing grounds completely. The grounds are already in the best location for the car and piggybacking them will cause more chances of corrosion.

Your Camry is very similar to my Avalon, Big 3 will be relatively easy for you to do in my opinion, but the engine ground cable run might be difficult for you to get to. Be careful with adding to the alt, one of the stock wiring cables hovers just over the alt and I had a mini fire and burned some of the magnesium coating off of the copper on my alt because I didn't bother trying to pry the stock wiring connector in a fashion that would make it harder for it to make contact with the alt. I also replaced my starter cable with some larger 4 gauge cable, my car starts up nice and fast now. I'm fairly new to car audio still, but I got it to work. 

 

TL;DR - The early 2000 Toyotas are troublesome, just be careful and triple check

really? got any pics? I see better with pictures that anything else. I got the 2.2L in mine. alt on passenger side. batt on drive side

Both wires are ground wires, I just ordered the wrong amount of red and black cable so I had to use some red for ground. DMM measures zero resistance.

 

I know it's messy, but it works for now. Maybe I'll clean it up when I do my sub install. The two blue wires are 4 gauge, one of them is my starter cable, the other runs to my front stage amp. You can't see it, but the other ground wire (2nd red wire towards the top of the pic) is going pretty far down to the engine chassis.

 

I tucked the wires behind the air filter, and you can see the 4g blue running into the firewall.

 

Ok here is where I wish I had NOT used Knukonceptz terminals, I should've used just regular 0 gauge crimped terminals, which I'll swap out another day. This is where you have to be mindful of how close the stock wiring is to your alt.

 

This is how I ran my alt to batt cable. There's no sleeving or anything like that, but it's been going strong for about 2 months now. I'll put sleeving on it someday.

thanks for the pics... and what no TRD supercharger on that puppy? lol I can work with that. I will ground it like you did. I dont want to drill new holes or anything. and is that power wire touching the ehaust by chance? i was gonna route the power wire around the front of the radiator and use zipties on it. the exhaust is in the front just like that as well. plus a electric fan. thankyou for pics again. I got some ideas now on how to run the big 3.

No it's not touching the exhaust, it's a good 6-8" away from it. It does get warm, but I haven't had any problems yet. Glad I could help!