No scraping, but since the sub is new it would hardly move at all just by pushing with the hand because it's so stiff.

How do I upload a video?

youtube 

 

This is a two part video of two different songs. The first part sounds like there is a little more output because the 10 that came with the car was still hooked up. I unhooked it for the second half.

And the weird part is that even though the sub seems to be flexing, there is not much bass output. There is the rattling, but not much bass. I checked the box for leaks, it is intact.

have you tried swapping the sub with something else to be sure that the sub is to blame, not the amp or signal feeding the amp or settings? 

I have not, but I don't really have the means to do that. The amp worked perfectly fine before so I don't think it's the amp, and (I know this is subjective but I've dealt with car audio for several years and make informed statements not just blabber) judging by the amount my lights dim there is quite a bit of current flowing, so it seems the power is there. I can tell the sub seems like it's "trying" to make the sound, the output just isn't there. The cap gets hot and everything too. Now I know I'm not an expert either and these are just my observations, I don't claim to know anything for a fact.

Edited April 14, 201312 yr by ChrisD

 

This is a two part video of two different songs. The first part sounds like there is a little more output because the 10 that came with the car was still hooked up. I unhooked it for the second half.

So you have two totally different drivers in the same enclosure or even running at the same time?

The cap getting hot tells me there is current there, it still sounds like something is wired wrong

I don't hear any issues in the video,it seems to be moving quite easily too.  I think there is an installation issue, and cancellation comes to mind since he mentioned the other woofer was still hooked up.

I'd assume that this retail shop deals with some type of preloaded enclosure, JL or Rockford. Even then I would expect at least one of the employees would have a system in their vehicle. Did they take the time to slide in a different sub/box to see if there was any difference in output?

And if the amp is hooked up to a factory system via a loc the loc could be hooked up out of phase giving you the same effect as the sub being out of phase.

The other sub only happened to be on at the time because I had re hooked it up to turn off the 12 until I had the wiring checked. The problem still persists when the 12 is the only one playing. I don't know what could be wired wrong I checked everything out personally. The sub does move quite easily which is why it's puzzling with how little output, but with the ease of moving comes the clapping sound behind the cap. The system is not factory, I have a Kenwood excelon head unit.

Edited April 14, 201312 yr by ChrisD

I'd assume that this retail shop deals with some type of preloaded enclosure, JL or Rockford. Even then I would expect at least one of the employees would have a system in their vehicle. Did they take the time to slide in a different sub/box to see if there was any difference in output?

The box was custom built, they never use prefabs. This shop is top 100 installers in the country (if that counts for anything)

Edited April 14, 201312 yr by ChrisD

You miss understand. They claim that your Fi is fucked. Common sense on their part would be to unhook the Fi, slide in a pre loaded enclosure that they KNOW works and see if there is a difference

If it counts for anything, which it doesn't bc everyone makes mistakes, I was a MECP master certified installer for 6 years.

Yeah I understand what you're saying. They didn't bother to do that, but they have this "you didn't buy the sub from us so we don't care that much" attitude. If it was their product then they would have done whatever it took to figure it out.

I know a guy who runs a shop like that and you know what they do when people like you come in?   They fuck your shit up in hopes you will buy what they are selling.

They never fucked my shit up before. The last system they hooked up for me was the best I've ever heard, btl 18. Hit 146.8 at the dash without even being broken in. I think they just hook up what I give them and if it doesn't work, oh well. If something THEY do messes up then they fix it.

They never fucked my shit up before. The last system they hooked up for me was the best I've ever heard, btl 18. Hit 146.8 at the dash without even being broken in. I think they just hook up what I give them and if it doesn't work, oh well. If something THEY do messes up then they fix it.

Sorry for the double post

I know a guy who runs a shop like that and you know what they do when people like you come in?   They fuck your shit up in hopes you will buy what they are selling.

+1 with this happening before! IF they see no money no help. Just remember this what it all comes down to. "The bottom line is the dollar sign they dont care about anything else.

Edited April 14, 201312 yr by Dictator

Take the sub out and show us EXACTLY to a T how the sub is wired! from the DRIVER to the AMP! and be very detailed if you would like the best knowledge from some experienced members on the forum. 

Edited April 14, 201312 yr by Dictator

What worries me is that the op says it moves easily when he presses on it. My Q's would barely budge when I pressed on them when they were new. Still aren't the easiest things to move by hand now.

When you pull the sub out to check it, reach under the cone and push it up. Make sure the spiders move up with the coil when you do that. Check all the way around too because it seems something is really wrong somewhere, that's for certain.

You said you had a BTL before, so you Fi builds solid drivers. If that sub is mechanically damaged it either happened during shipping or they did it at the shop, and not necessarily on purpose.

I don't want to keep unscrewing and screwing, but I can tell you exactly because I saw it. Positive to positive from amp to sub, then from negative on that coil to positive on the other, then from negative on that coil to negative on amp. Series wiring to 2 ohms.

I actually said it is hard to move by hand and stiff, but that it was moving week in the box. But with the decent excursion came almost no volume and a clapping noise.

I think you should take everything out and restart your build... DIY its cheaper... Take the sub out check the surround first because that is the most common place it becomes un-glued.... car audio is all about trial and error eventually you will figure it out