my budget is under $200, I currently have a cadence component set. I'm looking to replace only the 6.5 mid drivers, would like the loudest and most decent for the money.  I realized that the crossover from one side was just completely wet inside the door, and that's why it's sounding like that, but now I just want to change that set and get something louder.

How are you going to only replace the mid if the crossover doesn't work?

You cannot just slap a raw driver in a car. You also cannot mix and match drivers and crossovers. If your set is blown you either need to buy another component set or buy raw drivers and then run them active or pay someone to design/build a passive crossover for you.

Installation is the key.

My buddy just got his IA6.5's from the SSA store, built some nice little baffles and a little murder mat. (BALLIN' ON A BUDGET LOL) and they sound about 3600x better than the ones he had in there. Cost him something like 136 bones with shipping, he's quite happy with that decision.

I have a kicker x3i crossover in the back.

I have a kicker x3i crossover in the back.

So you were running a set of passive comps along with the  Kicker crossover at the same time? I have to go back to my previous statement and say you need to figure out why you blew a driver in the first place before buying new ones and possibly ending up the same way. Come to think of it you may have just given us the answer to the question.

no, because that kicker crossover was not installed when that happened.  and the speaker did not blow completely, its with some crackling noise, I was checking and it turns out that the crossover inside the door was completely wet and corroded.  But I still want to change those mids and get something louder to make a proper install.

Maybe I missed it but what does your substage consist of ? How much sub power are you trying to keep up with? I hope you learned not to mount a passive crossover inside a doorcard without protection. How low do you feel you want to cross over your front stage? Are you just concerned about loud or do you want any type of sq at all?

lol, yeah I learned. I have an flare ported 15" Fi SP4 3000rms. I want to get loud in front and yes I like the more SQ possible.

Bump

You could go a few different ways. that is a lot of bass to keep up with. Pro audio style might be the most cost effective route. That's really not my style so I wouldn't be able to recommend a set. The other option is getting a really beefy mid along with a tweet and run them active off that crossover that you have.

 

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538

 

I would run those mids with around 200 watts to them. The problem is that they're 8ohms and 200 watts at 8ohms is going to be expensive. CDT makes some beefy mids that can take a lot of power at 4ohms which would be easier.

 

http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=52

 

 

Either of those will play lower than a pa style mid and IMO sound better. Giving them enough power and quality of install will be key whatever route you go.

You could go a few different ways. that is a lot of bass to keep up with. Pro audio style might be the most cost effective route. That's really not my style so I wouldn't be able to recommend a set. The other option is getting a really beefy mid along with a tweet and run them active off that crossover that you have.

 

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538

 

I would run those mids with around 200 watts to them. The problem is that they're 8ohms and 200 watts at 8ohms is going to be expensive. CDT makes some beefy mids that can take a lot of power at 4ohms which would be easier.

 

http://cdtaudio.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=52

 

 

Either of those will play lower than a pa style mid and IMO sound better. Giving them enough power and quality of install will be key whatever route you go.

 

Thanks. pm sent.

I bought the Image Dynamics 6.5 CX62 V2, Thanks Guys. Any opinions on the install and tuning of it?

pm sent back

install the woofer in the door with waterproof baffles.  

 

go to sounddeadenershowdown.com for deading stuff. read the web page for a description of what deadening will do for your install. at the bare minimum you will probably need to seal access holes in the doors and add some cld to the panels. too late to mention this now but personally if I were limited to 200 dollars i would have spent half on deadening and the other half on the component set. 

 

dont mount the crossovers where they will get wet. 

 

use velco or other products to try many mounting locations for the tweeter.  try the sail panels, a pillars, door panel, and kicks.  

 

set gain and xover properly to prevent damaging your speakes.