I'm sure all of us has heard the emphasized S sound. The high-hat that makes you blink every time you hear it. I have always heard that tweeters tend to be personal taste and vary person to person but man is it hard for me to listen to a blaring titanium or aluminum dome tweeter for a extended period of time.

 

I'm looking for some supplementary highs that are "smooth" so to speak. I have been very impressed with silk dome tweeters but i'm looking for other suggestions. 

 

They can't be like 25 watts rms too. I need a reasonable power handling

 

Anyone care to share what they have in there ride?

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46848_Alpine-SPR-10TW.html

^^ What im looking at

what's your current front stage consist of? fail to see how adding tweeters will help. made that mistake myself when i go into car audio back in high school

A 6.5 coaxle in each front door in there factory spot.

 

Alpine type S 6.5's (silk dome)

Does your headunit have an EQ to smooth things out ???

Yes. Although I would prefer the majority of my filtering to happen at the amplifiers though, with the headunit sending a virgin signal to the back before anything is done.

Yes. Although I would prefer the majority of my filtering to happen at the amplifiers though, with the headunit sending a virgin signal to the back before anything is done.

why? 

Edited January 16, 201411 yr by lithium

I trust my processing quality of the amplifiers more than my deck at the moment. I don't have an 80PRS yet. 

 

I could be wrong though, does it matter?

Its this:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74601_Pioneer-DEH-X8600BH.html

the amplifier would only have a high and low pass filter. the EQ and filtering in pretty much any head unit is just as good. but what we're suggesting is that you try playing with the EQ to improve the performance. 

 

are the front door speakers also type S?  to be honest these are not very good speakers but we can try to help you get the most out of them as possible. 

 

there are a number of things you can do to fix the issue. 

 

1. disable the rear speakers. (fade all the way to the front using the hu if that works)

2. try flipping the polarity of one speaker.

3. possibly remove any stock grills (try listening with the door cards off to see if there is a difference)

4. fiddle with the EQ, it would be best to only make cuts.

replacement 6.5 options? recommendations?

A few comments.

but man is it hard for me to listen to a blaring titanium or aluminum dome tweeter for a extended period of time

Don't blame the tweeter on the installation. Blaring is a fuck up on the owner, not the product.

They can't be like 25 watts rms too. I need a reasonable power handling

Time for a math lesson. Why would 25w not be WAY more than necessary? I'd bet you haven't given your current tweeter coils that.

Yes. Although I would prefer the majority of my filtering to happen at the amplifiers though, with the headunit sending a virgin signal to the back before anything is done.

Yuck. The last place I'd EVER want processing is in my amplifiers. Boo. I want gain blocks with NO adjustments, would be the best amps ever IMO.

Start with your goals. Your misconceptions are making you look for the wrong things altogether. I do agree with a search for new 6.5'.s Getting some components would be a logical step.

but man is it hard for me to listen to a blaring titanium or aluminum dome tweeter for a extended period of time

I had the pleasure of listening to those "super tweeters" a couple of times ... and to be honnest, that was a couple of times too many ...

I agree with Sean. Upgrade to a nice component set ...

The last place I'd EVER want processing is in my amplifiers. I want gain blocks with NO adjustments, would be the best amps ever IMO.

Absolutely ... A basic power amplifier with little to no gain level matched to the headunit /processor works REALLY well ...

The basis for power, headroom, dynamics, and Clarity ...

Edited January 16, 201411 yr by Cablguy184

Clean, crisp sound is 90% install and 10% equipment. The best equipment in the world is going to sound like shit if installed poorly or in poor locations. I third getting a set of comps and mounting the tweeters up high. Play with the tweeter aiming to see what gives you the sound you want before the final mounting.

I agree with everyone else on this.  Add a few feet of wire to the tweeters from the component set and use some double sided tape, sticky tack, or anything of the like to stick them in different locations with different aiming until you find the location and angle you like the most.  Then plan the permanent installation of the tweeters around that location.  Another item to note is sound deadening.  Just because it is generally thought of first for resonances, rattles, etc. that go along with bass response the general lowering of the noise floor, control of resonances for all frequencies and things of that nature can help with the high end response as well.  On a few occasions I've helped people out with doing their sound deadening after they had everything installed and the majority of them were surprised by how it affected everything.  We had to re-EQ the top end on a couple of them.

 

 

I do agree wholeheartedly that if you're using some 6.5" coaxials now that your next logical step would be a decent set of passive components.  Done right you'll think you've gone to audio heaven with the difference, lol.

The dome material doesn't impart the sound characteristics you are talking about, that is an age old, 100% myth...

 

The design of the tweeter, and most importantly how you install it, determine a HUGE majority of the sound you hear...

 

Food for thought, some of the highest end speakers in the world ($100K+ per set) use titanium dome material and vented alignments...  What does that tell you about what you constantly hear about those two items and sound quality?  It is all subjective BS in car audio man....