Hello All!  I was able to trick Santa again this year, and he kept me on the nice list.  With some help from the gents at SSA, he brought me 2 new XCon 12s....WooHoo!!  It's finally time for me to get building and put these suckers to use.  This will be my first time building a box, but this creates a perfect excuse to buy more tools.  I would like to reach out to you guys and get some experienced advice to help in my first quality build

 

The car is a 2008 Pontiac G6 GT Coupe.

 It has the Bose Monsoon system, which isn't terrible for a factory unit.  Unfortunately, all of the cars display features are integrated in the factory's HU display.  For this reason I will be keeping the factory HU inconjunction with a line output converter.  I'm using a LC6i now, but am open to getting a better unit.  I know this is not ideal, but I do not like any of the replacement units offered, like the Metra.

 

Here is my current installed gear list:

 

Stock alt, Yellow top battery, big 3 with 1/0 wire, Audiocontrol LC6i, BC2000, 2 Type R12s, stock monsoon 3way fronts and rear 6x9s.

 

 

The planned setup is:

 

HO alt, 2/0 wire (already purchased), BC3500, 2 batteries, 2 channel amp and component speakers.  I'm not sure weather to go 2 or 3 way for these speakers, as my front door is already built out for 3ways. Either way I have some time to work on that decision.

 

 

 

Box Design:

My current task at hand is to build the largest box I can fit through the trunk opening.  I plan to fire the subs into the cabin, as my rear seats fold down easily.  I have done a mock build, and the largest dimensions I can squeeze in there is 26Lx35.5Wx13.5H.  I want removal to be easy, so the largest I would build is 25x35x13.5 as the Max external dimensions.  This gives 6.6ft^3 gross. Calculating losses with a double front wall, .25 for port and .15 for each sub yeilds 4.74ft^3 of net internal volume.  I am going to build a removable port assembly, so tuning is adjustable & I don't have to go through the process of building an entire box again. 

 

I have quite few question for you experienced builders/tuners:

 

Is 4.74ft^3 a  good volume for 2 XCon 12s?

What is the ideal net internal volume for 2 XCon 12s?  

Should I double wall the face?  I am building this for use with a BC3500 on good electrical.

Should I build box out of hardwood (like Birch) or 3/4" MDF?  I have no issue in working with either.

I plan to face subs and port into the cabin with the port in the middle.  Anything wrong with that setup?

 

 

Thanks in advance for your advice here guys!  I try to be thorough so I don't waste time & money redoing mistakes...DOH!!

Edited March 3, 201510 yr by nem

Sounds like Christmas at my house. Looking forward to the build.

Did you look into the PAC wiring harness for an aftermarket head unit?

Did you look into the PAC wiring harness for an aftermarket head unit?

No, I will right now.  Thanks!

 

Edit:  That may be a good option in the future.  Am I understanding it's function correctly:  The PAC modules take the car's display outputs and coverts them to a display on a aftermarket HU?  I also see a module for keeping steering wheel controls, which I am a big fan of.

Edited January 25, 201411 yr by Jasonc13

PAC manufactures harnesses to retain as many of them as possible including door chimes, steer wheel modules, exc.

Pic of the current box, which is  18x34x13.5.

 

Door panel with factory 3 ways:

 

Trunk lid, which needs serious deadening.  Do any of you recommend any foam/filler to put inside the voids of the trunk lid?

Ever consider a DSP?

There are several out, but a RF 3sixty.3 would work well in your setup. Keep the factory HU, has 8v linedriver/converter. Gives you tons of EQ and Time alignment, which going active would be easy with your door 3 way setup and improve the sound.

Brand new you could find one ~ $450 range, but have seen a few used go for $350.

Sure the LC6i would work well, but for the money you get the extra features an LOC wont give you. Think long term, the upgrade bug has bitten me more times than I can count.

Edited January 25, 201411 yr by crackinhedz

Ever consider a DSP?

There are several out, but a RF 3sixty.3 would work well in your setup. Keep the factory HU, has 8v linedriver/converter. Gives you tons of EQ and Time alignment, which going active would be easy with your door 3 way setup and improve the sound.

Brand new you could find one ~ $450 range, but have seen a few used go for $350.

Sure the LC6i would work well, but for the money you get the extra features an LOC wont give you. Think long term, the upgrade bug has bitten me more times than I can count.

You can say that again!  My wants far exceed my wallet right now.  I already have the LC6i, which is only getting used for the sub amp at the moment.  I'll check out the RF for the future, thanks.

I would go with birch wood. It's much lighter which is what I needed with my build. The xcons are pretty heavy and a box of mdf that size can get kinda heavy too.

I always do the foam in the trunk lid to fill the voids with good results, just stay clear of the locking mechanism so you will be able to close your trunk. Dont make the same mistake I did on my last car but it was all a learning experience.

I always do the foam in the trunk lid to fill the voids with good results, just stay clear of the locking mechanism so you will be able to close your trunk. Dont make the same mistake I did on my last car but it was all a learning experience.

Any foam in particular, or just the expanding type used around framing windows and door jams?

I used "Great Stuff"can be picked up almost anywhere

Edited January 25, 201411 yr by garychurch84

I used "Great Stuff"can be picked up almost anywhere

^^^^This

Can be found at Wal-mart

G6 yum! going from alpines to xcons! wow your going to get a boner and have to get medical attention after you hear the orgasmic bass of the xcons!

G6 yum! going from alpines to xcons! wow your going to get a boner and have to get medical attention after you hear the orgasmic bass of the xcons!

AMEN!  Can't Fawwkn wait.   Now would you guys please help me with the box configs?  I want to start cutting stuff this week

After seeing the box Dave built for grayta, I plan to build one similiar. I stole these from grayta's thread, thanks!

 

Are the honecomb looking braces necessary in the corners?

 

Ready for gear:

 

FInished product:

Looks good.

I use torres usually mess around with that till i reach the drivers optimal specs. But sub and port placement is up to you.

Excellent choice on subs, as for enclosure info, check out http://products.soundsolutionsaudio.com for ideas.

I just built a box for a friend for one one of my Xcon 12s I sold too him. It's 3 cubes tuned to 33hz with 50in2 of port area and the lows are fucking nuts lol it'll play 28-45 no problem.

Not sure how they do on lower volume and less port area but me and him are very happy with the outcome.

It's also on an arc ks1200 at 2 ohms.

I wish I had that kind of space Bassink.  Here's what I've come up with in Torres using 2 3" aero ports tuned to roughly 32Hz.  Port length seems short, is this accurate?

 

Edited January 31, 201411 yr by Jasonc13

No that's not gonna work. (2) 3" aeros is not even close enough to the amount of port area needed. Are this the max dimensions you can use?

Thats because you don't have near enough port area...  the smaller the ports- the shorter for the port length for desired tuning.  I don't deal with port tubes...so i cant camment on how much port area you should have...but I SERIOUSLY doubt 14 cubic inches is enough for 2 31mm xmax subs.

 

Edit: LOL He beat me to it....

Edited January 31, 201411 yr by Leedogg

There are free designs in the ssa section and on the ssa site !

No enough port, for sure !

No that's not gonna work. (2) 3" aeros is not even close enough to the amount of port area needed. Are this the max dimensions you can use?

Yes these are the max box dimensions my trunk will allow and still be removable. So it looks like a slot port is my best option, correct?

Any recommendation on which side or center would be the hardest hitting for the driver position in the car?