while the 80prs has earned its reputation, I do believe its limited to two way active so if you ever desire to go three way active, you may be outta luck.

 

Why not just keep your HU since you like it anyway and just add the RF360.3? (DSP w/ Line Driver)

jay-cee:  Great explanations!!  Thanks for taking the time to write all that  I think if others would explain how our sub stage is already an active crossover, the topic would become much less confusing for the masses.  I see how tuning slopes and frequency bandwidths will take some time, but that sounds fun to me.  What guy doesn't like tinkering with his new toys?    Schneezy, more great tips as usual, thanks! 

 

Alton & crackinheadz:  I think you guys are right, and I know you said it in the begining crackin.  I should just buy the rf360.3 and be done with it!  Man there goes the damn $1000 budget again, sonofa!!

 

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but how does this plan sound?

 

1. Buy rf360.3    -    Wire it into the outputs of my factory Monsoon amp.  I have 5 factory pairs of speakers.  Do you think this would include all frequencies?  My concern is the Monsoon amp is cutting out some of the low lows, like high 20Hz frequencies.  Do I need an oscilloscope to be sure?

 

2. Buy a 6 channel amp.  The tweeters will only need 2 channeIs as they require little power.  Then bridge the other 4 channels to power the 6"ish midbass drivers.  Since the sub stage hits quite hard, a very strong midbass pair should help tie it all together.   Sound reasonable?    I've never had quality midbass before.....Booo!!

 

3. Buy tweeters & midbass drivers.  I have no idea about tweeters.  A friend told me to look at Morel 6" drivers.  I saw those on the madisound site.  Worth the $ ? 

 

 

I last question:  Is 2/0 welding wire (I already have) enough to link the front & rear batteries? Specs say its good for 500A.  I need to upgrade the single 1/0 run I have now, and start tidying things up.

 

Thanks!

jay-cee:  Great explanations!!  Thanks for taking the time to write all that  I think if others would explain how our sub stage is already an active crossover, the topic would become much less confusing for the masses.  I see how tuning slopes and frequency bandwidths will take some time, but that sounds fun to me.  What guy doesn't like tinkering with his new toys?    Schneezy, more great tips as usual, thanks! 

 

Alton & crackinheadz:  I think you guys are right, and I know you said it in the begining crackin.  I should just buy the rf360.3 and be done with it!  Man there goes the damn $1000 budget again, sonofa!!

 

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but how does this plan sound?

 

1. Buy rf360.3    -    Wire it into the outputs of my factory Monsoon amp.  I have 5 factory pairs of speakers.  Do you think this would include all frequencies?  My concern is the Monsoon amp is cutting out some of the low lows, like high 20Hz frequencies.  Do I need an oscilloscope to be sure?

 

2. Buy a 6 channel amp.  The tweeters will only need 2 channeIs as they require little power.  Then bridge the other 4 channels to power the 6"ish midbass drivers.  Since the sub stage hits quite hard, a very strong midbass pair should help tie it all together.   Sound reasonable?    I've never had quality midbass before.....Booo!!

 

3. Buy tweeters & midbass drivers.  I have no idea about tweeters.  A friend told me to look at Morel 6" drivers.  I saw those on the madisound site.  Worth the $ ? 

 

 

I last question:  Is 2/0 welding wire (I already have) enough to link the front & rear batteries? Specs say its good for 500A.  I need to upgrade the single 1/0 run I have now, and start tidying things up.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Yes, I use 2/0 from front to rear for mine, noticed a huge difference. 

minidsp.com would be cheaper than the RF. What blows my mind, is you can get something of much higher quality and for less, but that type of processor is made for home, and dj use, not really for the car audio world. So with something like the RF, just know, you're paying for the name mostly lol. Like I said, with a nice radio, and amp, you won't "need" no stinky processor. 

Which model do you like there schneezy?  The units with at least 5 channel inputs  (8x8) were still $400.

Which model do you like there schneezy?  The units with at least 5 channel inputs  (8x8) were still $400.

 

Sean DeYoung, can you chime in?

You don't need 8x8, 2x4 would work just fine if you are using it only for the front stage. If you would like more flexibility you could buy two 2x4 kits which still come in way cheaper than the 360.3

Awesome work man!!

Any updates?

Any updates?

 Yes, I've pretty much done a 180 from the first post in this thread.  I ended up installing the Pioneer 80prs and running it active.  Short of it's terrible display & no Sirius, I do like all the audio adjustment features.  A bridged PPI900.4 is driving 10" RF Punch Pro 10s.  These still need to be nicely fiberglassed into the doors, but they are certainly LOUD.  Current tweeters are only ok, as I'd like to upgrade to Horns if I can fit them under dash.

 

On a big note, my 2 18" Ethos are Finally Here!    

Woof Woof Woofers!!  Haa!

 

Nice dual leads:

Looks like a mini can.

 

1 Happy Camper

Now it's time to get building!  As you can see in the pics, I don't have a nice flat space to work with.  All 4 bottom corners will require recesses built into the box. Kind of a pain, but it's worth it to me, in order to maximize box volume, while keeping the box as low as possible.

 

Here's the back seat are I have to work with:

 

This stick is 26" high, which is where I'd like to stay below:

Edited March 1, 201510 yr by Jasonc13

Nice, keep the updates coming.

Edited March 1, 201510 yr by jay-cee

Here is my 1st attempt at Google SketchUp.  The scale is way off, as dims will be approx: L 28 x W 46 x H 26  You can at least see general design the box will have on the corners.

 

 

I had originally wanted to invert the subs on top, but I'm afraid I wont have enough clearance.

 

My question to you experienced builders is, how would you configure the sub and port placement?  I am not walling this off ,so please don't suggest that route.

Edited March 1, 201510 yr by Jasonc13

Port center between the seats, subs on top flush mount. Imo

How much off the seats is the front of the enclosure going to be.

If there's room everything mounted forward.

I have been considering everything front firing, with the port on top.  Due to all the angles I have to deal with in the rear. a center port would get quite complex where it splits against the bottom rear slope.

 

I want at least 10ft^3 net, with at least 175in^2 of port, tuned around 30.

 

Here's a Torres sheet for all front, top port.   Thoughts?

 

 

It's a little off from the program I use and the vent velocity is high.

But trying to do 10 cubes net in those dimensions doesn't leave many options

for a slot port tuned that low without having such a high velocity.

If you go with a larger port area then it eats up the volume quick.

I typically don't use such an offset port ratio 1:11 is really high without splitting the port

into two (divide basically) due to panel flex from the force on a single 3/4" piece that's 40"+ wide.

Yes, I agree with you completely about bracing the port over such a wide span.  If I increase to 5" height, I change the ratio to 1:7 @ 175in^2.  Is that a more acceptable ratio?   I would still put a middle support in this 35" span.

 

 

This port could go above or below the subs, if all on the front face.  Above would make it easier for me to build.

Edited March 2, 201510 yr by Jasonc13

Now the velocity would even be higher.

Torres doesn't actually model the enclosure to show you this.

The port area would have to be larger in order to cut down on the "huffing" sound created by the port.

But if you do go with more port area then it eats up your internal volumes you're working with by port displacements.

This is where design gets tricky. You only have so much space and you need to account for every cranny.

With an SUV there's more room to play with.

The basics of the enclosure you're trying to design is a simple cube style.

Can you calculate all the +/- with all the angles?

You might actually gain a few cubic feet to play with.

I know it sound tedious and dumb, but it's accuracy that sets the good enclosures from the bad.

To keep things simple, what's the distance of the trunk opening?

I'd use that as the width of the port maybe?

It looks like you're just using the seat space as the enclosure or does it tuck into the trunk too?

To keep things simple, what's the distance of the trunk opening?

 

40" on the floor between the shock pillars

 

I'd use that as the width of the port maybe?

It looks like you're just using the seat space as the enclosure or does it tuck into the trunk too?

 

Correct.  I wasn't planning on running it into the trunk. I plan to build a 2 battery rack where the Xcons currently sit, and get the rest of my trunk back. 

 

 

I will also get exact dimensions of what will be taken from the box in the corners.  I won't know until I get the framing all squared away, and build some mock up pieces.

 

Getting this thing into the car once complete should be fun!    I already plan to take out passenger seat, and likely the center console.

Edited March 2, 201510 yr by Jasonc13

I would try to take that 40 and split it into two side by side ports. That'd create your divide and help with any internal panel flex from the port. You may just have to sacrifice for a higher port velocity due to space. It'll still slam. As long as you allow for extra volume for bracing displacements. If not your tuning won't be correct and you may need to shave some length off the port. Cabin gain will be another final factor in the build. But you won't know what that is unless you meter it and find your vehicle peaks.

Nice I am also interested in the Xcon. I see you just decided to step up to two 18's. That should be nuts lol.

Wow, that is a big upgrade : from 12's to 18's !

Great work.
How do you like your Mechman alt now ?

 

Tuned in for more pics.

Cant wait to hear these once finished, you were already loud with the x cons. Hollar if you need help getting things in and out the ride.