I think manufacturers should quietly rate their subs at half power. What in the ever loving fuck makes everyone think that it's a minimum power rating? I had to stop doing installs in my home town because they buy some duals or kicker comps and throw a hifonics 2k on if then piss themselves when their shit fucks up. Then repeat. This one dude, I put in four systems in six months because he refused to turn the gain below max. He didn't want to have them at less than full output, excuse my retarded ass then. Wtf.

/rant

Sorry. But that's been in my head for a while. Speakers deserve better treatment, fight for driver rights!

Or do what Quentin does, tell em how much they need to hit xmax in the correct enclosure and call it a day.

Edited January 28, 201411 yr by SpeakerBoy

Speaking of quentin.. i'm sure he has some ideas.

But but but running 3x rms at .00000012 ohm is the shizznit man.

For daily beating, I don't see the need. For competition, there is a purpose.

For daily beating, I don't see the need. For competition, there is a purpose.

Competitors usually know what to do.

I'm not referring to intelligent individuals.

Daily.

Yea people need to know what there doing when running a lot of power.

Speaking of quentin.. i'm sure he has some ideas.

This is the deal with ratings. Smaller companies I don't have a clue how they come up with their ratings. All of the big boys use Klippel to verify parameters. They then use the CEA rating (Pat actually had a hand in setting those specs). Basically CEA ratings as power is considered is the power given the will cause a shift in parameters that will make the driver act differently from its original parameters.

Basically is says the driver need x amount of power to act as intended. I do the same thing but take it a step forward and give the recommended enclosure for the power needed. It's a bit complicated as this will change in given alignments.

The thing to remember that all this all about a rough round about figure NOTHING dealing with transducers are concrete as eveverything changes as the driver is played. We only try to get as close to real world as possible.

The main thing as a consumer you want to look at is Large Signal Parameters. Most engineers do not understand this and it very easy to understand. Parameter of a sub played to Xmax and warm is Very different from that same driver played to 1mm. So would you want specs that showed the driver at 1mm (who only runs to 1mm Xmax) or do you want specs that show how the driver acts under normal operating conditions.

And this is why Q is da man.  Puts stuff is term thae average guy can understand.

And this is why Q is da man.  Puts stuff is term thae average guy can understand.

x2

There is also a business side to things.  If you don't have a sea of pallets filled with drivers that are sitting there, with a large margin, cannot really rate where you would like it to be.  This is simply due to the amount of inexperienced DIY'ers out there.

Personally, I think RMS ratings should only be the thermal rating of the coil, nothing more, nothing less.  

 

Any other rating should be called something else.  I say this because it is the least meaningful specification given by a manufacturer, but none the less, it should be an objective one.

Personally, I think RMS ratings should only be the thermal rating of the coil, nothing more, nothing less.  

 

Any other rating should be called something else.  I say this because it is the least meaningful specification given by a manufacturer, but none the less, it should be an objective one.

How hot before it fails, doesn't even sound to my ears like it would help me design a box for it any day of the week, know what I'm saying?

I was educated by a guy once...he explained to me how the input sensitivity gain works

if the amplifier is rated at 100w rms you have to crank the gain to achieve this

and if you turn the gain down to half your output is 50 w rms.......and so on.....

and if a sub is rated 100w peak it will take that 100w rms

I told the guy he was very knowledgable and he should do this shit professionally

......he thought I was serious....LOL

Edited January 29, 201411 yr by Thumpper

 

Personally, I think RMS ratings should only be the thermal rating of the coil, nothing more, nothing less.  

 

Any other rating should be called something else.  I say this because it is the least meaningful specification given by a manufacturer, but none the less, it should be an objective one.

How hot before it fails, doesn't even sound to my ears like it would help me design a box for it any day of the week, know what I'm saying?

 

"Thumpper"

lol this guy! Only reason why I run boss subs because im a boss and they just fit me.

Edited January 29, 201411 yr by Dictator

There is also a business side to things.  If you don't have a sea of pallets filled with drivers that are sitting there, with a large margin, cannot really rate where you would like it to be.  This is simply due to the amount of inexperienced DIY'ers out there.

Still recovering from a bought of insomnia, clarify a little please?

 

 

Personally, I think RMS ratings should only be the thermal rating of the coil, nothing more, nothing less.  

 

Any other rating should be called something else.  I say this because it is the least meaningful specification given by a manufacturer, but none the less, it should be an objective one.

How hot before it fails, doesn't even sound to my ears like it would help me design a box for it any day of the week, know what I'm saying?

 

 

95Honda, I'm agreeing with you lol