Ok I was thinking of replacing my current mid bass drivers, which are rockford fosgates t2652-s. They are a component set. I was looking in to the crescendo pwx 6"s would this be a good upgrade? If so what kind of amplifier would I need for them? I currently have the fosgate t400.4

no, not a good idea at all. how about you describe your current install and explain what's missing. 

The fosgates are coo but they tend to cut out at high volume. I'm not sure if it's speakers or amp. But I was thinking of going two pwx in each door along with ft1 tweets.

The fosgates are coo but they tend to cut out at high volume. I'm not sure if it's speakers or amp. But I was thinking of going two pwx in each door along with ft1 tweets.

terrible idea, they will sound like shit. 

 

fix your current install. something is seriously screwed up if they're cutting off. 

Speakers do what they are told. Sounds like an amp problem.

My friend has pwx 6's on a fosgate 400.4. Sounds awesome but i agree with litium figure out whats wrong first. 

 

The fosgates are coo but they tend to cut out at high volume. I'm not sure if it's speakers or amp. But I was thinking of going two pwx in each door along with ft1 tweets.

terrible idea, they will sound like shit. 

 

fix your current install. something is seriously screwed up if they're cutting off. 

 

 

 

I agree, ditch the "pro audio" idea as there's no way you'll ever get comparable results, IMHO anyway.  The cutting off may be a result of a protection circuit in the passive crossover.  The components in my van have such protection and when you're REALLY wailing on them one driver or another (typically one of the tweeters) will cut off for a moment.  One or two clicks of the volume back down and everything is back to good.  It's a really good thing the protection circuits are there or the wife would have popped this set a LONG time ago!

My friend has pwx 6's on a fosgate 400.4. Sounds awesome but i agree with litium figure out whats wrong first.

Awesome? Seriously? Low standards there...

Yeah they would SUCK for what your doing.

Ight well how would I be able to know what causes them to cut out? Or maybe it is a safety feature on crossover

Do you have to turn the amp off and back on to get them to start working again?

Na just lower the volume

In my experience its the crossovers. Too much power or clipping is being applied and they are protecting. Which is good because if not they would just blow. The crossovers will eventually blow if you keep doing it. Buy a higher rms component set, turn the volume down or go active and switch to pro audio. 

 

I blew 2 sets of tweeters in the T2652s. I still have a pair of the mids. They are loud but after one song full tilt the tweeters would go muffled until they cooled down. Those components get loud and sound decent, replacing with Crescendo pwx's would be horrible. 

Ok thanks for advice. But are those bad speakers the pwx? Just asking, I ain't gonna by them now lol

So everyone tells you there not for your goals or setup but you still insist on purchasing them.

If that's the case then go ahead and buy them since none of the advice given was considered.

Your crossovers probably contain "Polyfuses" (thermisters).  When you overdrive the component set (it is set conservatively) they heat up and become highly resistive thus dropping the tweeter output level.  When you let them cool, they go back to normal in a minute or so.

 

The are horrible for sound quality and are used when you have cheap drivers that you know someone is going to abuse.  

 

If you want to get rid of them, just bypass them by soldering the two points together that the leads go through.  It will sound better, but you will probably blow one of the tweeters eventually.

 

They look like this:

 

Oh, and clipping doesn't effect a Polyfuse at all, just so that is clear...  Only too much continuous power does...

Ok thanks for advice. But are those bad speakers the pwx? Just asking, I ain't gonna by them now lol

Bad, good, who cares? They don't fit your application AT ALL. Anything misused sucks donkey, so for what you want to do yes they suck donkey.

So everyone tells you there not for your goals or setup but you still insist on purchasing them.

If that's the case then go ahead and buy them since none of the advice given was considered.

I think you read wrong I said aint as in not going to

Edited February 25, 201411 yr by Ceez9090

I had a cheap ass zapco component set cut out just as your describing. Turned the amp down, messed with it for quite a while and realized I just bought a shitty comp set. I couldn't get the volume out of them I wanted without it cutting out.

My advice is listen to the advice given. The more detailed you can be with what you want from your speakers the better help your going to get.

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

 

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

 

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

 

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

 

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

 

Easy fix is to not use that much power.. 

 

 

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

 

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

 

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

Easy fix is to not use that much power..

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

well that's what I was asking what kind of amp would be needed and go active. I wasn't planning on going passive.

 

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

Easy fix is to not use that much power..

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

well that's what I was asking what kind of amp would be needed and go active. I wasn't planning on going passive.

 

 

if you're having trouble with properly installing a passive set i doubt you're ready to handle active. you would also need to invest in more than just an amp for an active install. 

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

Easy fix is to not use that much power..

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

well that's what I was asking what kind of amp would be needed and go active. I wasn't planning on going passive.

if you're having trouble with properly installing a passive set i doubt you're ready to handle active. you would also need to invest in more than just an amp for an active install.

ok so just limit my self to mediocre installs. Because I can't learn new things, and some were born knowing everything.

 

 

 

i own the 8s.. to me, they sound awesome for high powered installs, except for the following-

the 8s are rated for 200wrms.

I run ~400-500wrms per driver crossed around 300Hz to 3.5KHz.

Around 3KHz, they start resonating because of the cone material.

The cone needs to be mass loaded when using this much power.

Easy fix is to not use that much power..

Using these drivers is purely a custom tuning scenario.

I would NOT suggest EVER replacing your current woofers\mids with ANY pro audio driver in a passive x-over config.

Pro audio drivers need pure active processing.

well that's what I was asking what kind of amp would be needed and go active. I wasn't planning on going passive.

if you're having trouble with properly installing a passive set i doubt you're ready to handle active. you would also need to invest in more than just an amp for an active install.

ok so just limit my self to mediocre installs. Because I can't learn new things, and some were born knowing everything.

 

 

your instinct to buy new gear is a terrible idea given you've have yet to diagnose your current issues. start there. i'm trying to save you time and money.