Hey Gents!

 

Could you please give me speaker recommendations for an active 2 way front stage?

 

I want to run 1 set of tweeters where the tape measure is in this pic:

 

2" OD is probably the largest I'd like to mount here.

 

I would like to put a 6.5" driver in the lower factory location:

 

The direction of the 6.5 is not ideal as it points down and forward, but I really don't want to build custom kick panels at this time.

 

I will be running a Pioneer 80prs HU, which I want to run active.  I do not have the 4 channel amp yet, but the Crescendo 800.4 is my top runner right now when it comes back in stock. It's rated around 130w x4 @ 4ohm.  $300 is a good amp budget for now, and I figure if its not powerful enough, I can bridge it and add another amp later on.

 

My goal is for the front stage to blend with the 2 Xcon 12s firing into the cabin from the trunk.  I really don't know what specifics of sound I'm looking for as I have very little experience with quality components.  I do want a powerful sounding 6.5 as the Xcon lows are totally overpowering at the moment.  

 

My budget is $200 for the 4 speakers.

 

Thanks in advance for your input guys,

Jason

Right now if I were to go tweeter route I would choose the SB Acoustics SB29RDCN-C000-4 or the knock offs NVX XSPTW, both have a low frequency response so matching up mids wont be a problem.

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_68822_NVX-XSPTW.html

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/ring-radiator-tweeters/sb-acoustics-sb29rdcn-c000-4-neo-magnet-ring-dome-tweeter/

 

That would leave you with around $100 bucks for mids unless you can up the budget some. I doubt you will find a powerful 6.5" within your budget or one that still wont be overpowered by your Xcons. Just my .02

Any tuning experience? Heard any drivers you like?

mounting depth for the door speakers? or will you be modifying the door trim to fit anything? 

 

also, amp suggestion. ppi 900.4. similar power to the crescendo, 100 bucks cheaper, and probably a hell of a lot smaller.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38338_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4.html

Edited May 16, 201411 yr by lithium

Any tuning experience? Heard any drivers you like?

 No, and No.  Sorry I'm not much help.

 

@ Jay-cee:  If I have to go $300, I can.  That tweeter is perfect size.

 

@ Lithium:  I have seen the ppi amps in people's sigs.  Are they a decent amp?  I like small at this point! The price is right on those as well.  I will get the door panel opened up this weekend.  Not sure what I can fit in there yet.  If the driver sticks out of the door into the cabin, that is fine by me.  I just don't want to buy another stock door panel when its time to sell the car, which is hopefully 1 - 1.5 years.

 

Edit: Any reason I SHOULDN"T buy the ppi 900.4 amp?  I really didn't want to wait until June 1 for the Crescendo 800.4, plus the $100 savings can go right to the mid driver

Edited May 16, 201411 yr by Jasonc13

Even at the same price I'd buy the PPI over the 800.4.

If this is your first active setup, I'd spend less on the drivers as the learning experience can create both blown speakers and an enlightening experience that makes it difficult to like whatever you bought.

I'd also recommend that you buy something simple and forgiving to integrate.

A set of local CL used component set with paper mids and silk tweets would be a great start. Use them, determine what you like and don't and then upgrade.

Nothing will "keep up" with your subs. Cone area isn't something you can overcome. That being said you can still have something that sounds great with an 6-7" mid but just don't expect monster midbass.

lol @ ///M5. you really do hate crescendo because of the FT1's don't you.

lol @ ///M5. you really do hate crescendo because of the FT1's don't you.

Yes, but that isn't at all why I answered what I answered.

As long as there is reasonable build quality in an amp, an amp is an amp. If there is no overheating problem or ultra reliance on stable voltage then a smaller one will always win for me. I have three of the PPI variant (Polk actually) amps in my boat and I trash the living crap out of them. No reason not to buy if they have the power you "need"

Seriously though on the FT1. Anyone who is running one has zero idea about audio. Remember that as you read build threads. Even worse when they run multiples.

Even at the same price I'd buy the PPI over the 800.4.

If this is your first active setup, I'd spend less on the drivers as the learning experience can create both blown speakers and an enlightening experience that makes it difficult to like whatever you bought.

I'd also recommend that you buy something simple and forgiving to integrate.

A set of local CL used component set with paper mids and silk tweets would be a great start. Use them, determine what you like and don't and then upgrade.

Nothing will "keep up" with your subs. Cone area isn't something you can overcome. That being said you can still have something that sounds great with an 6-7" mid but just don't expect monster midbass.

Great info, thanks!  Wouldn't you know the ppi is out of stock until June 1st as well.....SONOFA!

 

 

Please tell me it's only the Symphony series of Crescendo that is bad.  The BC2000 I had did well, and the new recent BC5500 purchase was planned to be in my vehicles for quite a while.

I don't think he's saying its a 'bad' amp. He just prefers something else for his own reasons. I don't think your going to notice a difference between a crescendo 3500 and a sundown 3500 or even a DC 3500. Sure there is a ton more out there.

 

Even at the same price I'd buy the PPI over the 800.4.

If this is your first active setup, I'd spend less on the drivers as the learning experience can create both blown speakers and an enlightening experience that makes it difficult to like whatever you bought.

I'd also recommend that you buy something simple and forgiving to integrate.

A set of local CL used component set with paper mids and silk tweets would be a great start. Use them, determine what you like and don't and then upgrade.

Nothing will "keep up" with your subs. Cone area isn't something you can overcome. That being said you can still have something that sounds great with an 6-7" mid but just don't expect monster midbass.

Great info, thanks!  Wouldn't you know the ppi is out of stock until June 1st as well.....SONOFA!

 

 

Please tell me it's only the Symphony series of Crescendo that is bad.  The BC2000 I had did well, and the new recent BC5500 purchase was planned to be in my vehicles for quite a while.

 

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_33876_Precision_Power_P9004.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison&gclid=CNPLpbLSsb4CFSgQ7AodJgUAWA

 

still in stock some places i think

The same amp is made by PPI, Hertz, Polk Audio, NVX and someone I am forgetting. All variants are basically identical.

I dislike them not for an amp. If you read above I am pretty clear about an amp being an amp

I'd rock a BK800.4 for $140. That's what I'm doing lol. Selling my Linear Powers and buying a cheap PPI.

The P900.4 it is!  The smaller footprint over the BK800.4 is the topper for me.  Onlinecarstereo has them in stock, thanks Lithium!  Just wish I had bought it with the 80prs last week.

 

Once I have some experience tuning, do you think it would be wise to bridge the 900.4 to a set of robust mid drivers?  Then another amp can be purchased to run the tweeters?

 

 

M5:  Could you give more info on the components you recommended?  I'm not sure what to look for.

 

Thanks  

Edited May 17, 201411 yr by Jasonc13

You could try the Sundown or Incriminator Audio components in the SSA Store. Pretty much these will be your testing speakers so no reason to go all out. Listen to them passive for a while to see if they fit the bill, then when you are comfortable you can try active. Just ditch the passive crossovers that come with the speakers and then wire each speaker to its own channel, tweets on channel 1/2 and mids on channel 3/4. Then listen, tweak, listen and tune away. 

Just FYI both of those sets take very little power, the Sundown crossover will simply shut down the tweeters if you try to put any type of power to them. If loud is the goal I would look at something different.

Start with anything used and play. Nothing will help you decide really whatvto buy more. IMO the 900.4 is a much bettervsolution than the 800.4.

Start with anything used and play. Nothing will help you decide really whatvto buy more. IMO the 900.4 is a much bettervsolution than the 800.4.

 

 

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8604

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63974_Pioneer-GM-D8604.html

 

Would it makes sense to still go with the ppi900.4 if he will be using the crossover features from his Pioneer 80PRS head unit, could he just save some bucks and run the Pioneer GM-D8604 above?

Start with anything used and play. Nothing will help you decide really whatvto buy more. IMO the 900.4 is a much bettervsolution than the 800.4.

 

 

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D8604

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63974_Pioneer-GM-D8604.html

 

Would it makes sense to still go with the ppi900.4 if he will be using the crossover features from his Pioneer 80PRS head unit, could he just save some bucks and run the Pioneer GM-D8604 above?

Sometime around the mid-90's Pioneer lost me permanently on their amps. Doesn't mean anything though, but the sour taste in my mouth still exists. Compounded by being hard to recommend an amp that I personally have no experience with. I haven't actually used a PPI 900.4 either, but have 3 of the Polk versions of exactly the same amp.

And personally, I'd never use ANY crossover on an amplifier. Makes tuning a complete fuckshow. The exception of course being an SSF as unless you have an offboard proc you are almost reduced to having no choice.

So, Pio might be fine. Long term resale I'd doubt in comparison though. To me cost is always buying price - selling price which I'd bet wins for the PPI. In particular if a used copy were purchased.

Good news here!  The 80prs is installed and the $100 NVX components linked below are sounding great!  I'm really impressed with how much sharper these are compared to the factory  amplified monsoon speakers.  I'm just running them active off the HU's power until I get a 4 channel amp, but it's still a drastic improvement.  I'm pretty well decided on the ppi 900.4 once it comes back in stock, but thanks for the other suggestions guys. I really can't wait to hear these speakers with some power behind them!

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_72201_NVX-VSP65KIT.html

 

 

Question on the 80prs:  What is a safe distortion free max volume?   It goes to 62.   

Edited May 25, 201411 yr by Jasonc13

Something like these would probably work good for you:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs150p-4-6-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-373

 

http://www.parts-express.com/vifa-xt25sc90-04-1-dual-ring-radiator-tweeter--264-1014

 

Like M5 suggested, you will probably learn a lot by working on this project.

Volume on the 80prs is completely dependent on your amplifier, not the headunit.  Exactly why there is gain setting.  Personally I'd set it up so that at 62 it is seriously clipped on a 0dB recording.  Won't be a "safe" setting but you have ears so using them is a good idea.