I got the wheel wells covered in ccf and MLV.

I'm trying to decide what to do about the gap above.

Factory tweeter and mount next to Focal tweet and bucket.

Put end on the tweeter wires, marked all the positive wires (I always run stripe as negative, these are opposite).

Focal bucket sitting on factory mount. I just need to get some nylock nuts to mount it.

Nice. Did you get me one?

looks good

No just saw it and thought immediately of you.

I cut the sub holes in the boxes.

Installed the passenger side tweeter and crossover.

Installed the package tray, c pillar trim, and rear seat belts.

I'll post pics later. I don't have my phone with me.

Package tray, third brake light, and c pillar trim back in.

Sub holes cut, they still need mounted and wired.

Crossovers mounted with Velcro. And a piece of ccf covering it so I don't get any rattles.

Tweeter in the factory mount.

I got the driver side wired up this morning. I need to mount the subs, and amp. Prep the doors and install the mids. And put the interior back together. Hopefully my amp will show up today and I can get started mounting it.

I can't wait to get my gto

I can't wait to get my gto

What are you getting?

The N2 showed up today. The measurements listed are of the case not including the feet or terminals. So mounting it in the tank brace without cutting isn't happening.

But it looks like it'll fit inside the spare tire well under the spare. I'm working on a mount now. This is better. Adjustments will be easier to access, since the spare is supposed to come out in a hurry.

I can't wait to get my gto

What are you getting?

06 gto :-)

Mocked up.

Next I need to get 1/0 gauge wire into a flat 4 gauge terminal. Maybe I'll start cutting on an 1/0 ring terminal.

Here's the end of the amp.

Edited July 13, 201411 yr by hondakilla98

Maybe I'll just put another fuse in the trunk and have 4 gauge on the output.

Maybe I'll just put another fuse in the trunk and have 4 gauge on the output.

That would be the easiest route, I dislike those type of amp terminals.

Maybe I'll just put another fuse in the trunk and have 4 gauge on the output.

That would be the easiest route, I dislike those type of amp terminals.

I wish it had round 4 gauge terminals. Then I could just use reducers.

Here's the amp mounted.

And most of the wiring hooked up.

Holy cow, that's a cute lil bugger.

I marked and filled the sub mounting holes, made jumper wires for subs, drilled a hole and fed my power wire into each box, made two 4 gauge ground wires, took out the fuel tank brace, hooked up the power wire and grounds to the amp.

Tomorrow I'm going to silicone and mount the sub boxes in the car, reinstall the tank brace, put all the carpet back in the trunk, and put the defroster/tweeter covers back on the dash. Then Wednesday I can install the subs.

Floor and tank brace sanded.

Tank brace installed with ring terminals between it and the floor. One on each side.

Everything wired up before I put the carpet back in.

I tried to install the passenger side sub box. I don't think it's going to work. If the sub didn't stick an inch out of the box before excursion, then maybe. But I think it's going to hit the trim panel. I have it wired up and belted into the back seat for now. It sounds pretty good.

Now my options are to make a thinner box with a thinner sub. Or buy a 1 cu ft fiberglass box and run one SD-2 10 on 400 watts. Or buy a 12" that's less than 5" deep for 1 cu ft fiberglass box. It's available for 2-8", 1-10", or 1-12".

dont want to modify the trim panel?

 

you could cut a hole and  depending on how large the hole is you could then attach a 10" or 12" grill over the hole. 

 

something like this might look ok. 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39744_Alpine-KTE-12G.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7419_JL-Audio-SGR-12W6v2.html

It's behind the rear seat arm rest insert. So, not a flat surface. It's possible, but I'm trying to not modify any of the interior. I saw one where he removed the arm rest insert and made an MDF ring that was wrapped in grill cloth. He was also running a ported fiberglass box.

The cheap and easy solution is to build a slightly shallower box and put a 12" SI BM MKIV in it. That would give me 12" cone area with a sub that prefers around .5 cu ft. And the box could be 1" shallower.

ya depends what you want to invest in it i guess. cost of replacing trim panels later, etc. 

I'd rather spend money on a sub box or different sub, than cut the panels. They only made 35,000 cars over 3 years. So parts are expensive and hard to find. And I like the idea of it looking all stock except for the deck. Making people wonder how it sounds so good with "no sub".

I'm open to suggestions. I guess I could also use two cheap shallow 10's in MDF boxes.

I've decided to go with one SI BM MKIV 12" in a slightly shallower box. It should net around .4 cu ft.