fusing only protects against ampres,not voltage

fusing is a good thing!!! If something went wrong an your charging wire went to ground then you would be glad you fused it.

 

dead shorts will draw all the amps possible causing all kinds of problems! melted wire,blow fuse(if fused)fried alt etc

Edited September 7, 201411 yr by garychurch84

 

 

 

Your golden.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.

Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.

 

you can use the rear battery as a distro block

run to rear batter straight from front battery

no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot.

 

 

 

 

Your golden.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.

Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.

 

you can use the rear battery as a distro block

run to rear batter straight from front battery

no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot.

 

agreed

fusing is a good thing!!! If something went wrong an your charging wire went to ground then you would be glad you fused it.

dead shorts will draw all the amps possible causing all kinds of problems! melted wire,blow fuse(if fused)fried alt etc

Well I guess in this case overkill never hurt. I want to do this right so I think I'll put one in to be safe.

I have ran several HO alts and have never fused between the alt and battery. 

Your golden.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.

Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.

you can use the rear battery as a distro block

run to rear batter straight from front battery

no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot.

agreed

So if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?

Edit...stupid phone autocorrect

Edited September 7, 201411 yr by EddieC

I have ran several HO alts and have never fused between the alt and battery. 

Me either,but It isnt going to hurt anything! Just added protection!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Your golden.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.

Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.

you can use the rear battery as a distro block

run to rear batter straight from front battery

no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot.

agreed

So if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?

Edit...stupid phone autocorrect

 

If both are agms should be fine!

For what its worth! I use lead acid batteries in the front and rear of my car! Few companys have cars w/battery in trunk off of showroom floor with lead acid batteries( bmw) for one.Ventilation is key.

Your golden.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.

Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.

you can use the rear battery as a distro block

run to rear batter straight from front battery

no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot.

agreed

So if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?

Edit...stupid phone autocorrect

If both are agms should be fine!

Good deal...looks like they fit the bill. So a run of 1/0 from front batt directly to the back batt. From there my runs (with proper in line fusing) to amps. Correct?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Your golden.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.

Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.

you can use the rear battery as a distro block

run to rear batter straight from front battery

no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot.

agreed

So if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?

Edit...stupid phone autocorrect

If both are agms should be fine!

Good deal...looks like they fit the bill. So a run of 1/0 from front batt directly to the back batt. From there my runs (with proper in line fusing) to amps. Correct?

 

Sounds good

Your golden.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.

Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.

you can use the rear battery as a distro block

run to rear batter straight from front battery

no battery isolater needed unless you have a parasitic drain or two different chemistry batteries if the car sits a lot.

agreed

So if I was to use the Platinum Group 35 car batt up front would the Platinum Group 31M work in the rear?

Edit...stupid phone autocorrect

If both are agms should be fine!

Good deal...looks like they fit the bill. So a run of 1/0 from front batt directly to the back batt. From there my runs (with proper in line fusing) to amps. Correct?

Sounds good

Ok so one question on the fusing. Here are the specs on the SQ amp:

Specifications

Model Q1-2200D

Digital Monoblock 1 ohm stable

Input Sensitivity 0.2v-8v

Variable Low Pass Filter 20Hz-200Hz @ 24dB/Oct

Subsonic Filter 10Hz-50Hz @ 24dB/Oct

Output Master / Input Slave, 2 amps linkable connection

Clipping Display Led

Signal to Noise Ratio 90dB

External Fuse Rating 200 Amps, 400 Amps Linked

Tested Voltage 14.4V

4 ohm power @ 12V @ 1% THD 500x 1

1 ohm power 2200 x 1

1 ohm Power @ 16V 2500 x 1

2 ohm Linked Power @ 14.4V @ 1% THD 4400 x 1

Notice the external fuse rating says 200 amps, 400 amps. What are they saying here?

Edit...never mind. ..just saw linked. 200 amp.

Edited September 7, 201411 yr by EddieC

Once you have seen a lead battery explode from a heavy workout, you will think twice about mounting one in the cabin of the car.

I'll definitely be putting a marine battery inside the vehicle. Not taking any chances there. As for the alt fusing....would this work or do I need something better/larger?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231023519605?lpid=82

That should work perfect. Don't forget to fuse both ends of your runs to the back battery. Within 18 " of the ends is the rule of thumb.

That should work perfect. Don't forget to fuse both ends of your runs to the back battery. Within 18 " of the ends is the rule of thumb.

Ok....found this link and it pretty much says and shows what you're saying.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/398527-dual-battery-wiring-tutorial-why.html

Since the SQ requires a 200 amp in line and the X14 has 120 amps of fusing on board I'm guessing I should bump up to 300 amp fuses. Correct? I am using ofc 1/0 straight from the welding supply co.

The diagram has the correct placement of the fuses. Depending on the brand of wire, 1/0 gauge should be good to 200 to 250 Amps. The fuses between the batteries are only there so if there is a short somewhere in the wire it will not affect anything else. So match those two fuses to the gauge of the wire. The fuses between the rear battery and amps should be matched to the amps.

A few pics showing how my current ride is done, to give you an idea.  I did two runs of 1/0 ga, both fused with a 200 amp fuse, for the front to back run. The rear battery is the distribution block. Then fused after the rear battery to each amps rating. I think I fused my alt also now that I think about. Was cheap insurance.

hey im also getting two 12 ethos in oct and this is what i have so far.. this is my first real setup also.. im also geting a Js ultimate 200 amp alt.. should be in this week i just got a die hard platimum battery for under my hood... and for the trunk i have 2 group 31 blockshakers batterys..  my amp is a Ampere audio 3,800.1D.. im hoping that the 200 amp alt the die hard plat under hood and the 2 group 31's in trunk will be ok... o and for wire i have sky high 1/0 OFC. and also 1/0 ofc big 3 kit.. gonna need more wire for the batterys in back tho..this is all going in a 1998 honda accord lx.. cant wait to see how your build comes out!

The diagram has the correct placement of the fuses. Depending on the brand of wire, 1/0 gauge should be good to 200 to 250 Amps. The fuses between the batteries are only there so if there is a short somewhere in the wire it will not affect anything else. So match those two fuses to the gauge of the wire. The fuses between the rear battery and amps should be matched to the amps.

 I'm unsure of the wire brand. I got it for free from the maintenance manager at work. Told him what I needed and coincidentally he was getting new cable for their welder as there were a couple of nicks in the sleeving that would have been considered a safety violation (I'll just make my cuts to eliminate the nicked areas). .The stamping on it reads 1/0 Flex A Prene 600V and definitely ofc. Any clue as to the rating on that? I have 49 ft which should be plenty for everything (I think).

 

A few pics showing how my current ride is done, to give you an idea.  I did two runs of 1/0 ga, both fused with a 200 amp fuse, for the front to back run. The rear battery is the distribution block. Then fused after the rear battery to each amps rating. I think I fused my alt also now that I think about. Was cheap insurance.

 Thanks for the pic! Visual aids are always a plus! Looks nice and clean man....props!

 

hey im also getting two 12 ethos in oct and this is what i have so far.. this is my first real setup also.. im also geting a Js ultimate 200 amp alt.. should be in this week i just got a die hard platimum battery for under my hood... and for the trunk i have 2 group 31 blockshakers batterys..  my amp is a Ampere audio 3,800.1D.. im hoping that the 200 amp alt the die hard plat under hood and the 2 group 31's in trunk will be ok... o and for wire i have sky high 1/0 OFC. and also 1/0 ofc big 3 kit.. gonna need more wire for the batterys in back tho..this is all going in a 1998 honda accord lx.. cant wait to see how your build comes out!

 You too man...good luck on yours! Congrats on the Ethos purchase. After hearing those in person I can't wait to get mine in and bumping!

 

I'll be starting a build log once I get everything planned out. This is going to be more than just an audio build. With nearly 300,000 miles I'm going through this thing from engine, suspension, ground effects, paint....the works! Planning on making this thing a true show piece. It gets attention now but I want to drop some jaws.

A few pics showing how my current ride is done, to give you an idea.  I did two runs of 1/0 ga, both fused with a 200 amp fuse, for the front to back run. The rear battery is the distribution block. Then fused after the rear battery to each amps rating. I think I fused my alt also now that I think about. Was cheap insurance.

 Do you see any need for me to have 2 runs of 1/0? 200 amps of fusing for the SQ, 120 for the X14 (which I know I'll never see all of it). I'm thinking 300 max total if my wire can safely handle that on one run.

Most quality 1/0 gauge wire it is rated for 250 Amps. The loss of amps comes from the length of wire, so obviously make it as direct as possible. With a rear battery for extra reserve, you should be fine with a single run of 1/0 gauge. I just like to do things overkill.

Most quality 1/0 gauge wire it is rated for 250 Amps. The loss of amps comes from the length of wire, so obviously make it as direct as possible. With a rear battery for extra reserve, you should be fine with a single run of 1/0 gauge. I just like to do things overkill.

Gotcha! Man I really appreciate all the help. I'm out of thumbs ups for today but I'll be sure to up all the posts I missed tomorrow. Thanks again!

Ok I have a battery question. Went and bought a Platinum Group 31M for the rear but the Group 35 had the posts reversed. Needed a Group 34 but they didn't have one anywhere nearby in stock. Will the battery I have up front now work or be sufficient? It's a Duralast Gold Group 25 that I bought March of last year. They don't sell that model any longer, and the only thing I can find is that it has 640 cca. Not sure if it's AGM or not, but I'm guessing not. If I need something different I'm looking at an Optima Red Top now. Suggestions?