Rebuilding for my home music room, plans for the box are 7.5@26hz with 120sq in of port, 3/4" mdf, double/triple baffle (haven't decided) 1.5 all around, sub forward port forward, on spikes.

Woofer is a FI BTL 18.

I like Decaf and DJSNT, chopped and screwed, etc. Anything you'd advise me to change before I go and pick up wood?

On 500rms for now, intend to pick up an EP2000 down the road.

Edited April 12, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy

Depends on your goals I'd probably tune lower but it would get more than music duty

 sub forward port forward, on spikes. 

 

Make sure the spikes can handle the weight. Had problems with the Dayton ones on my HT box

sub forward port forward, on spikes.

Make sure the spikes can handle the weight. Had problems with the Dayton ones on my HT box

Would two per corner make a difference or should I look at more expensive spikes?

Depends on your goals I'd probably tune lower but it would get more than music duty

I'm looking for plenty of volume 25-60hz but the ability to be nice and flat when I turn the bass down to match the towers

Edited April 12, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy

I would concentrate more on bracing than 1.5" thick cabinet walls, as the bracing will help much more than wall thickness...

 

What does the response look like modeled at 20Hz vs what you are planning?  If you don't loose a lot up higher I would just go with 20Hz tune...  Nothing wrong with 26Hz, just curious if the response is any different...

 

If you get the large cone spikes, they will be fine.

 

Port and sub forward will work great.  Put the port opening on the bottom.

Thinking a square removable below the sub =]

I'm installing winisd, I just got a computer this weekend, what exactly am I looking for on a graph?

Edit: appears it's Windows only,

What can I use for an old ibook G3?

I got it pulled up in winisd on my friends laptop, 

There's less of a bump around 25-30 but the rolloff is smoother

Edited April 13, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy

95Honda, are you saying I can skip doubling the walls since I'm going to be bracing all sides? Not sure if I'm doing dowels or alltread, but I was thinking two rods each side, front to back, top to bottom, side to side, as close to center of each panel as I can get without touching the motor lol

95Honda, are you saying I can skip doubling the walls since I'm going to be bracing all sides? Not sure if I'm doing dowels or alltread, but I was thinking two rods each side, front to back, top to bottom, side to side, as close to center of each panel as I can get without touching the motor lol

Exactly what he is saying, as long as bracing is sufficient.

Edited April 13, 201510 yr by jay-cee

Excellent.

Pickin up panels this afternoon, going over the dimensions tonight and building this weekend =]

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dss4-bk-black-speaker-spike-set-4-pcs--240-717

Will these be strong enough?

Will these be strong enough? 

 

I have that set in gold. My problem stemmed from these two things:

1. I couldn't get the insert nuts perfectly square on all four corners. I did get them close enough to where I didn't think it would be a problem
2. My carpet is so spongy that the discs the spikes were resting on would sink into the carpet a far ways. This caused me to make them almost as tall as possible using the threaded rod. This amplified the non-square insert nut problem. Ended up bending a rod.

So mostly user error. But it can be difficult to get those things in there perfectly square. 

Just my experience. If you're careful and patient they'll probably work just fine

Don't waste your time with all-thread, it actually isn't that great of brace...  Just build braces using your MDF, window style is great.  

x2 on window style, much better than dowels if you can spend the time. Also, if you have a router and a way to cut circles, you can cut a bunch of circles out instead of windows which is the same concept. There will be a good medium between material left vs openings for flow.

Bracing is not a rod, but the engineering of a better structure for the box.

Whoa o.o

I had actually thought of using 2x4's from the the center of each panel and then securing them together where they meet in the center with Titebond and a bolt or two.

I should have a 2'x 4' sheet left over, I can use that for bracing.

At least now you see why & how really thick walls are a wacko way to build strength.  It'd be like a civil engineer designing a bridge only using thickness.  That would be one fat ass bridge.

At least now you see why & how really thick walls are a wacko way to build strength. It'd be like a civil engineer designing a bridge only using thickness. That would be one fat ass bridge.

No doubt. It's win win, saves me money, and saves weight on the enclosure.

All thread is expensive o.o

Edited April 14, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy

Ha but not time

Ha but not time

Partly why I love audio is because it requires patience and practice to attain a good result, rushing is useless.

I'm a very impatient, anxious, haphazard person by nature. For the first time I'm taking my time with a project, and I'm not mad lol. It's worth the days or weeks extra, the final result is much, much longer lasting.

Edited April 15, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy

Don't use 2x4s, It is always a bad idea to mix lumber and MDF, they expand and contract at different rates and like to ruin joints...  Just use the MDF you have left over...

Don't use 2x4s, It is always a bad idea to mix lumber and MDF, they expand and contract at different rates and like to ruin joints... Just use the MDF you have left over...

Noted, thank you =]

Picked up a router with a standard bit and a roundover bit today for $25

Edited April 15, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy

 

Don't use 2x4s, It is always a bad idea to mix lumber and MDF, they expand and contract at different rates and like to ruin joints... Just use the MDF you have left over...

Noted, thank you =]

Picked up a router with a standard bit and a roundover bit today for $25

 

MDF and cheap bits can be a dangerous combination.  Be careful.

Don't use 2x4s, It is always a bad idea to mix lumber and MDF, they expand and contract at different rates and like to ruin joints... Just use the MDF you have left over...

Noted, thank you =]

Picked up a router with a standard bit and a roundover bit today for $25

MDF and cheap bits can be a dangerous combination. Be careful.

Tried them out this afternoon, looks like they aren't as sharp as I thought. But $25 is the cost of some bits, let alone routers lol

Edited April 15, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy

+1 on window bracing, since you are bracing at all 4 walls instead of 2 using dowel rods, or lumber. Good luck. I will be here soon as well as soon as I blow my XXXs