Posted August 8, 201510 yr So I've been researching ground connections, always trying to learn more about a subject, since I was upgrading some things its always a good time to refresh my memory. I've basically come across several ways suggested to make a good ground, and there are a few that stand out to me. 1) Using dielectric grease to seal moisture out of the connection area, with the idea that when you crank down on the nut to secure a ground lug to the chassis it will push this grease out of the way so the metal connects properly together and helps seal out moisture. 2) White lithium grease. I've seen this mentioned several times, but I truly feel it may be an outdated recommendation. I've also found stories of people explaining how it dried into a hardened oxidated paste. 3) Thomas & Betts KOPR-Shield. This looks pretty good actually, however I don't see many people using it. So I was wondering if anyone here used it and what they thought about it. It seems like it would be good to put inside of ring lugs before crimping as its electrically conductive, as well as putting it on bare metal ground spot. 4) Specialized kit, http://www.pozitiveground.com/order.asp This looks convenient, maybe a little pricey. This kit does have a little anti-corrosive gel in it, plus everything someone might need. May be great for a shop that'll be doing many install jobs. So far I've been using a dremel with a sandpaper bit to grind paint off around factory ground points, then I put a little dielectric grease, add a star washer, my ring lug, whatever other lugs, then a lock washer and nut on top. After its all together I wipe any excess grease and I have some clear coat spray for the whole setup. Another thing I've seen debated on forums and on various web sites is grounding to the seat belt bolt, and various other places. The chassis vs frame, floor pans, etc etc. I've come to the conclusion really its gotta be case by case and vehicles are just different. http://www.bcae1.com/battgrnd.htm has a great write-up. Bottom line seems to be, test test test. Think you found a good spot, test before and after, test resistance and test voltage drop. Don't be afraid to move a ground, and try to keep them as short as possible.
August 9, 201510 yr I have been using Noalox for about 20 years. If I know it won't be serviced for years, I will use Noalox and then clean off the exterior very good and put several coats of good quality paint on to seal everything... http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/wire_installation/accessories/noalox.php
August 9, 201510 yr I have been using Noalox for about 20 years. If I know it won't be serviced for years, I will use Noalox and then clean off the exterior very good and put several coats of good quality paint on to seal everything... http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/wire_installation/accessories/noalox.php How is the Noalox applied, to the metal area that was just sanded? So you put the Noalox down before you place the terminal down and bolt it?
August 10, 201510 yr Author I believe that is exactly how it's used. I also have another compound I didn't mention but I believe its similar to noalox, its call ox-gard http://www.gardnerbender.com/en/ox-100b
August 10, 201510 yr I'm pretty lazy but I've just been using a good thick layer of plastidip and it seems that it works pretty well.
August 10, 201510 yr I'm pretty lazy but I've just been using a good thick layer of plastidip and it seems that it works pretty well.I use plastidip when I'm done as well. But im referring to the process before attaching the terminal to the car.
August 10, 201510 yr I like to use this spray. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/stops-rust/cold-galvanizing-compound-spray
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