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Glad it worked out for ya man and it was under warranty. 

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  • Billy Jack
    Billy Jack

    Just cut the end of the wire off so there is no metal sticking out of the coating and you want even have to tape it. You can always take off some coating when you go to wire it back up.

  • Multimeter checks resistance and voltage, not impedance.  It can be helpful in trouble shooting but let's start with your ear.  Play a 2500Hz sine wave on your stereo (Funcgen on your phone or other w

  • Billy Jack
    Billy Jack

    You say I act like a teen but you where the one who got bent out of shape because I didn't take your opinion as fact. And it isn't just me you are a pucking smartass to almost anyone who comes on here

No need for expensive foam, if all you are stopping is a single rattle. This product can be had at the hardware store for a few bucks. It has glue already on one side. Most ppl install around the speaker like the second pic. There is usually some factory foam already there, thats sub-par. remove the factory stuff and replace with with the denser, taller foam. Stack a few pieces if needed. (like the second pic) I would suggest the 1/2" tall, as thats usually the tallest available. Make sure it says "HIGH DENSITY", for the closed cell kind. 
 
md-ws017-alternate-view-2.jpg17z-foam_gasket.jpg?height=300&width=400

 

Aside from just preventing panel vibration, This will also focus all the sound into the cabin. Which will help improve the frequency response by stopping destructive wave interference, by stopping any sound from going between the door and door panel. 

 

I will add even with a full door treatment, the foam ring is still needed. so is a great place to start, and you can improve as need from there. You will learn the most seeing the effects of each adjustment individually. Will also keep things cost effective by only doing what is needed in YOUR particular car, to your satisfactory!

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