Haven't been here in a while.

 

Had to make a new account since I forgot the password to my old account.

 

Anyway, I bought a Honda CRV a year ago & am now getting around to the audio portion

 

So far I have

Ipad Mini

Helix DSP

2x PPi P900.4's

1 PPI P1000.1

Beyma 8G40

and Eric Stevens Horns

 

The Beyma's are great, but they start to lose steam around 90hz, so I'm looking for a sub that can extend up higher than most to help in that area. I'll be using the P1000.1 for power & have around 4 cubic feet to work with. I found a 13w7 local for $550, but was wondering if I can do better for the dollar. I like output, but it takes a back seat to response in this build. 

And since everyone likes pics..

 

 

Edited June 5, 20178 yr by drinkchamp

You need a dedicated midbass application here, OR change your current application which will suffer on the low end of the spectrum. 

I've never seen a CR-V that low!  How did you pull that off?!

 If I go with a dedicated midbass, I'll have to settle for something that's 82-86db & it'll be impossible for them to keep up with the horns. I'd have to go 3 way, too. Am I just asking for too much in this instance? 

 

D2 racing coilovers with different top hats allowed me to lower it around 3 inches. 

I know Eric said the Silver Flute 8s can pair well with horns, not as efficiet as pa speakers but makes up for it in bandwidth. 

That is the classical trade-off in car audio.  No real way for beefy midbass without dedicated midbass drivers.  Efficiency isn't really the concern as you make that up with power.

Strange. The last pair of 8" Beymas I heard got down and dirty on midbass. But then again, they were dedicated midbass application. 

Putting them in a ported enclosure makes a MONSTER difference as well.

5 hours ago, ///M5 said:

That is the classical trade-off in car audio.  No real way for beefy midbass without dedicated midbass drivers.  Efficiency isn't really the concern as you make that up with power.

Wouldn't power compression be an issue then? 

2 hours ago, Randal Johnson said:

Strange. The last pair of 8" Beymas I heard got down and dirty on midbass. But then again, they were dedicated midbass application. 

Maybe they would in this car, but they didn't in the last. They were real strong down to the 90s 

2 hours ago, drinkchamp said:

Wouldn't power compression be an issue then? 

What do you think happens when you design for efficiency?  For a dedicated midbass you are looking for a 8" or so subwoofer that doesn't roll off so early.  ie, it is akin to running ANY sub in a modern car stereo.  Nothing to worry about.  Efficiency is the most misunderstood specification as on its own it tells you pretty much nothing about how things will sound.

So maybe I'm not understanding this correctly. 

 

If I use a dedicated midbass such as the JL ZR800 or the Peerless SLS8, how much power will I have to dump into these to level match them with 110db HLCD's? At Best, we're looking at a difference of 23db between the JL and the horns...With 1W applied to both, i'd have to have soooooooooooooooooooooo much more power on tap for the midbass..at what point does this power do nothing for me?

 

Not to mention, these are dedicated midbass so I'd be forced to go 3 way with a 4" or 5"....am I right? I'm not seeing how this works out in the end unless I ditch the horns and go with tweeters...but I don't want to do that.  

Edited June 6, 20178 yr by drinkchamp

Let's start over.  What are your current crossover points for all drivers?

I Haven't installed them yet, but in a 2 way, I'd usually bandpass the mids from 80-100 to 1khz @ 24db 

 

I am 99% happy with using those mids and horns for a 2 way set up, but I would love if i could get a sub that extended up higher than usual. 

Okay, i misunderstood.  I got you now.    You should easily be able to accomplish response up to 90Hz.  The simplest way is a sealed enclosure with a crossover (higher) point.  Any other alignment would require more specific tuning.

Exactly.  Of course the tradeoff is now in LFE versus midbass.

Building a ported enclosure for those Beyma's will do wonders for how well they dig as well.

Yeah, what those guys said. Do the subwoofer sealed and you'll get a smoother reach out of the top end of the sub. Model and build ported pods for your mids and you will get the midbass boost from the port. Voila!

One added note, sensitivity is typically measured with an input frequently of 1 kHz. This is why a subwoofer or midbass will show a super low number, compared to something designed to play 1 kHz. 

Looking at this model, .77 @ 60hz will give me massive output down into the mid 50's. 

 

Since they're ported, should I be running a dedicated midrange with these? I don't know if I can squeeze a 6.5 into my kick panels. 

 

 

10 hours ago, drinkchamp said:

Looking at this model, .77 @ 60hz will give me massive output down into the mid 50's. 

 

Since they're ported, should I be running a dedicated midrange with these? I don't know if I can squeeze a 6.5 into my kick panels. 

 

 

Did I miss something? Which model?

I modeled the beyma 8g40 to see how they would do ported. 

The manufacturers frequency response graph will tell you how the top end will perform.

JL was sold when i last inquired about it, so I put in an order for 2 Dayton HO 15's. The pair should work well in 3.5 cubes sealed with a little bit of stuffing. I could have gone with a single 18, but 2 15's gives me a bit more cone area. Will update as soon as they arrive.