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Featured Replies

Posted

Hey guys, been awhile. I've been messing around with the build here and there for the last 2 years and its largely remained the same. I swapped in a mini dsp 6x8 and a new 4 channel amp for the mids and tweets. 

https://imgur.com/Gdu11nn

Currently the build is a 3 way front stage with SLS 8's in the doors along with Tangband w4's and some peerless tweets in the kick panels. The problem is that the driver side kick panel is this strange black hole for mid to high frequencies. I've spent the last two days trouble shooting the amp and wiring to make sure its not something electrical. 

That all said, I think I'm going back to the A pillar full range setup (either with or without a tweeter). I ran the sls 8s with a set of peerless full ranger in my previous car so I'm aware of what to expect. The only issue I had at the time was that the 3" has trouble matching up with the sls'8 in the 250hz range. I'm not sure if that was due to the drivers or some cabin modes. I'd consider upgrading the 8's if need be. 

So i'm looking for suggestions on what 3-4 inch full range drivers to try in the A pillar. Not sure if a 4" would work in the A pillar? 

Drivers I've used before:

  • Peerless 830986
  • Fountek FR88EX 
  • Hivi B3 (have a pair from a Zaph project)
  • Tang band w4 1337 

Other options

  • Tang band w3 bamboo
  • FaitalPRO 3FE25 or other drivers from FaitalPro 
  • Dayton audio? 
  • Vifa TC9FD

Install will likely be PVC end caps temporarily and later I will fiber glass. I might play around with 3D printing the enclosure to some extent. 

  • Admin

I loved my Fountek FR89's, but I am not sure how much that can help what you are going for.

  • Author
13 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

How were your 3's mounted up above?  I assume you mean they lacked the cohones necessary to dig to 250?

They were mounted in PVC end caps using some threaded rod to attach them to the A pillar (on axis to the driver). From what I remember, yes. 

 

6 minutes ago, Aaron Clinton said:

I loved my Fountek FR89's, but I am not sure how much that can help what you are going for.

I put some FR88's in my brothers car but I matched them with a Dayton audio 7" so I probably crossed them a bit higher then what I can do now. 

0104021606.jpg

More enclosure volume is your friend then.  If you are limited, I'd measure and then model the drivers in your enclosure space and possibly use that to pick the one that digs the best.  If you can't get a larger volume of space or enough you could aperiodically vent them into the car, but this will also reduce power handling on the lower frequencies.

I have been using the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range for over a year now. They are hands down very transparent and extremely capable. Over the years I used and tested +20 full range drivers and these sound the best to my ears. Currently, they are mounted in pods on my dash corners. When the music starts playing they simply disappear. 

The only driver on your list that is the most comparable is the Tang Band w4-1337sd. Unfortunately, the Tang Band w4-1337sd are HUGE!! Top end "sparkle" is much more present with the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range.

Other than the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range I wold recommend the FaitalPRO 3FE22. The 3FE22 are probably the most underrated midrange IMO. Very neutral sounding like the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range and Tang Band w4-1337sd. 

I recommend the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range, runner up the FaitalPRO 3FE22.

Throw some super tweets in there. You be fine. LOL

on a serious note, did you find your original problem with the right side fading out ???

2 hours ago, edouble101 said:

I have been using the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range for over a year now. They are hands down very transparent and extremely capable. Over the years I used and tested +20 full range drivers and these sound the best to my ears. Currently, they are mounted in pods on my dash corners. When the music starts playing they simply disappear. 

The only driver on your list that is the most comparable is the Tang Band w4-1337sd. Unfortunately, the Tang Band w4-1337sd are HUGE!! Top end "sparkle" is much more present with the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range.

Other than the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range I wold recommend the FaitalPRO 3FE22. The 3FE22 are probably the most underrated midrange IMO. Very neutral sounding like the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range and Tang Band w4-1337sd. 

I recommend the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range, runner up the FaitalPRO 3FE22.

 

I was going to suggest the Mark Audio as well.  Last year I was contemplating a full range setup and I work with a guy who is a home audio nut.  He turned me onto the Marks.  They are FABULOUS full range drivers!

With that being said, if I was to do a 2-way, I would NOT be using the SLS 8s.  Those are quite a bit bottom heavy and roll off quite steep on the top end.  I'd pick something that can hang more up to 500 or so.

  • Author
9 hours ago, ///M5 said:

More enclosure volume is your friend then.  If you are limited, I'd measure and then model the drivers in your enclosure space and possibly use that to pick the one that digs the best.  If you can't get a larger volume of space or enough you could aperiodically vent them into the car, but this will also reduce power handling on the lower frequencies.

I think I will try making a mold with expanding foam and use that to figure out enclosure size. Venting the enclosure might be possible. There is a plastic molding that runs across the dash along the windshield which I could remove. Venting into the dash might be a good option. 

 

7 hours ago, edouble101 said:

I have been using the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range for over a year now. They are hands down very transparent and extremely capable. Over the years I used and tested +20 full range drivers and these sound the best to my ears. Currently, they are mounted in pods on my dash corners. When the music starts playing they simply disappear. 

The only driver on your list that is the most comparable is the Tang Band w4-1337sd. Unfortunately, the Tang Band w4-1337sd are HUGE!! Top end "sparkle" is much more present with the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range.

Other than the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range I wold recommend the FaitalPRO 3FE22. The 3FE22 are probably the most underrated midrange IMO. Very neutral sounding like the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range and Tang Band w4-1337sd. 

I recommend the Markaudio Alpair-7-Grey Cone 4" Full Range, runner up the FaitalPRO 3FE22.

I'll add the Markaudio drivers too the list. I've seen them on madisound but haven't seen maybe people run them. Do you run full range on axis or off axis w/ a tweeter. I have an the channels available to use tweeters if need be. 

 

 

Edited by lithium

  • Author
7 hours ago, Randal Johnson said:

Throw some super tweets in there. You be fine. LOL

on a serious note, did you find your original problem with the right side fading out ???

i'll have to go back and check my build log. I don't even remember the issue. Probably fixed it w/ either the new amp or dsp. 

4 minutes ago, lithium said:

I think I will try making a mold with expanding foam and use that to figure out enclosure size. Venting the enclosure might be possible. There is a plastic molding that runs across the dash along the windshield which I could remove. Venting into the dash might be a good option. 

 

I'll add the Markaudio drivers too the list. I've seen them on madisound but haven't seen maybe people run them. Do you run full range on axis or off axis w/ a tweeter. I have an the channels available to use tweeters if need be. 

 

 

I have them on-axis without tweeters, there is no need to have a tweeter with these drivers if mounted on-axis or close to it, on top of the dash/a-pillar. 

  • Author
5 hours ago, Tirefryr said:

 

I was going to suggest the Mark Audio as well.  Last year I was contemplating a full range setup and I work with a guy who is a home audio nut.  He turned me onto the Marks.  They are FABULOUS full range drivers!

With that being said, if I was to do a 2-way, I would NOT be using the SLS 8s.  Those are quite a bit bottom heavy and roll off quite steep on the top end.  I'd pick something that can hang more up to 500 or so.

I'd be interested in swapping out the midbass if I dont lose too much midbass. Though, I'm probably not pushing the sls 8s all that hard as these GM doors are not very robust, even with a massive amount of sound deadening treatments. Any suggestion on 8" drivers? 

Really hard to get better midbass than from an SLS.  Indeed harder to get the blending.  A 3" full ranger in a ported enclosure can easily reach 80Hz, but that requires a few liters of air space.  If you are truly stifled up top (which is a reality in most cars) and want perfect blending then Ryan is dead nuts on as it will be easier with a driver that plays higher.  That being said, my GM doors were nearly overwhelmed by the CA18 7" mid from a midbass perspective...but I could have tried harder to resolve that.

  • Author

I think i'll grab a pair of those markaudio drivers just for fun and mess around with some A pillar pods for now. Too cold to do any fiber glassing for now. 

A bit of extra hardener and it still works....but I wouldn't want to either.  Sort of like when I had to yank the motor out of my sled since the damn carb floats leaked and filled the crankcase with gas.  -25F and it was so gassy in the garage it had to be open.  That sucked.

  • Author

 

3 hours ago, ///M5 said:

A bit of extra hardener and it still works....but I wouldn't want to either.  Sort of like when I had to yank the motor out of my sled since the damn carb floats leaked and filled the crankcase with gas.  -25F and it was so gassy in the garage it had to be open.  That sucked.

If I get creative with some PVC pipe I could play around with enclosure size for now. Its not quite that cold in central IL but I do not have access to garage either... 

3 hours ago, Tirefryr said:

Get some UV curing resin and you're set.  You could also build a small heat room with a large cardboard box and a heater to keep the temp up.  Done this many times in an unheated garage.

Interesting, I'll look into UV resin. 

On ‎12‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 9:45 AM, ///M5 said:

my GM doors were nearly overwhelmed by the CA18 7" mid from a midbass perspective...but I could have tried harder to resolve that.

OMG, I know EXACTLY what you mean here !!!

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