Vehicle : 88 Corolla FX

Location in the vehicle: Hatch

Space available (Length x Width x Height): 38x18ishx16ish

Subwoofer make and model: Not sure

Subwoofer Size: 6.5 or 12

Number of Subwoofers: 1 or 2

Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): T-line

What type of music do you like?: Rock country rap dubstep electronic etc

Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Musical.."SQL"

Tuning Freq (Hz): Not sure

Volume : Not sure

Questions: Been reading and watching videos on T-line boxes over the last week and im really wanting to try one now with either 2 6.5s or 1 12. Currently have 1 american bass xr12 on a rockford prime 1200 at 1ohm and i like it but im wanting something a little different.  Really leaning towards 2 6.5's.

Edited October 12, 20195 yr by BEEFKING69

If you're just building this for the memes than use the 12", save yourself some money. It wont be louder or sound better then your standard enclosure that occupies the same space. As long as you're aware than have at it. 

From what ive read and watched thats the whole point is they sound better get lower without losing the topend and get just as loud on less power at the cost of a larger enclosure....no?

You've read some confused information.  

My son has a pair of 10s ported and tuned on a 2k in his hatch ... beats the block down 

1 hour ago, Randal Johnson said:

My son has a pair of 10s ported and tuned on a 2k in his hatch ... beats the block down 

They aren't in a T-line though like the OP is asking about...

What kind of box is your current American Bass 12" sub in now?

1 hour ago, jcarter1885 said:

What kind of box is your current American Bass 12" sub in now?

 Was in a 2.5..ishcf at 33hz Have also tried it in a 2cf at 38hz and now its in an unknown size and tuned box which is damn near identical in size physically to the 2.5 box but the port is slightly wider and a whole lot longer....Metallica ozzy ac/dc etc hits slightly harder on the 2.5 box while the unknown box hits alot harder on most other types.....overall the unknown box is the best so far.....Im beginning to think these AB subs are just not that good or that ive just reached the limits of a single 12 and should just get two 750ish watt 12s. This box would fit in the hatch perfect because of the angled back......I know prefab=yuck......https://www.skaraudio.com/products/sk2x12v-dual-12-inch-ported-subwoofer-enclosure-box

Ive yet to read anything bad about T-lines other than physical size to driver ratio and that they are not the best for "spl" setups. Im open to to all opinions and not stuck on having to have a T-line. Im just really intrigued about the T-lines and also intrigued on 6.5s just cause it would be badass to have a pair blowing the hatch off.

Edited October 14, 20195 yr by BEEFKING69

If you don't like your 12 you will be SEVERELY underwhelmed with a pair of 6.5's.   90% of the T-line discussion on car audio forums are not Tlines, but slot ported boxes.  If you can't operate Mathcad, don't have Martin King's worksheets, then expect that your trial and error will be a failure and take MANY iterations to get it to somewhat work.  Add to that you are now using drivers that have way less capability so even if you do it perfectly you will have a significantly worse response in every aspect and it is an exercise in stupidity.  I understand though that there is a ton of misinformation on the web and it isn't your stupidity, but the sites that you have found positive responses towards T-lines in a car.  Don't take it personally, but take everything you have read with a grain of salt and dig through the nonsense.

In general instead of trying to be different you should be honest with your goals and build the system YOU want based on your goals and not other peoples imagination.  This will save you a lot of time, money and yield way better results.

9 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

If you don't like your 12 you will be SEVERELY underwhelmed with a pair of 6.5's.   90% of the T-line discussion on car audio forums are not Tlines, but slot ported boxes.  If you can't operate Mathcad, don't have Martin King's worksheets, then expect that your trial and error will be a failure and take MANY iterations to get it to somewhat work.  Add to that you are now using drivers that have way less capability so even if you do it perfectly you will have a significantly worse response in every aspect and it is an exercise in stupidity.  I understand though that there is a ton of misinformation on the web and it isn't your stupidity, but the sites that you have found positive responses towards T-lines in a car.  Don't take it personally, but take everything you have read with a grain of salt and dig through the nonsense.

In general instead of trying to be different you should be honest with your goals and build the system YOU want based on your goals and not other peoples imagination.  This will save you a lot of time, money and yield way better results.

Thank you thats what i kinda figured is that a couple of 6.5s wouldn't really be satisfactory other than the cool factor. When i say Tlines im talking actual folded Tlines and not tapered lines or horns or tapered horns or these so called labyrinth boxes.  Two 12s is most likely what i want to try this time. Any suggestions? Only thing is they need to dvc4 and in the 750watt range to match my amp at 1 ohm

A number of years ago, I went through a T-Line patch for a single 8.  Built 2 enclosures and bought two others.  None of the 4 could match the simple sealed 12 performance.

My biased vote for your subs would be the SSA Demons.

1 hour ago, Aaron Clinton said:

A number of years ago, I went through a T-Line patch for a single 8.  Built 2 enclosures and bought two others.  None of the 4 could match the simple sealed 12 performance.

My biased vote for your subs would be the SSA Demons.

Those look damn good being red and black and and we race mini dunebuggys and our lil group name is offroad demons. My problem with boxes is i dont have any means of building my own. Any box builders on here?

Shipping can cost as much as labor.  Where are you.

 

...no dunes here, but plenty of trails.

 

 

Im in the florida panhandle.....no dunes here either but lots of trails and mud lol. Theres a race series down south for these mini buggys also that we been trying to get a chance to go race in.

 

Edited October 14, 20195 yr by BEEFKING69

Not afraid of mud here either

 

Looks Like Fun

On 10/14/2019 at 1:29 PM, BEEFKING69 said:

Those look damn good being red and black and and we race mini dunebuggys and our lil group name is offroad demons. My problem with boxes is i dont have any means of building my own. Any box builders on here?

https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/ported-dual-12-subwoofer-enclosure/

On 10/14/2019 at 12:29 PM, BEEFKING69 said:

Those look damn good being red and black and and we race mini dunebuggys and our lil group name is offroad demons. My problem with boxes is i dont have any means of building my own. Any box builders on here?

knock down sealed boxes are decently fool proof if you can find one with the right cutout size or something close enough to work with some modification. You just have to glue it up. 

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-speaker-cabinets/289

some of these have a blank baffle so you would just need to borrow a jig saw to cutout the hole. 

On 10/13/2019 at 8:18 PM, ///M5 said:

They aren't in a T-line though like the OP is asking about...

Upgrading to a single 15. Not using a T-Line with this either . 

Thx for those links. Im definitely not opposed to sealed boxes have also considered a single 15.  A little update....I ended up getting the skar sdr 12s and the skar box i had mentioned earlier basically new for half price....Current thoughts are that in some ways they sound better but in some ways i like my single 12 better.....The single hits low s a lot better but overall the skars hit better....

This leads to a new issue...the skars are hitting higher notes way harder which has really brought out the rattles and buzzes i didnt really hear with the single 12. The skars are tighter.....infact i think they are are to tight....the skar box is supposedly 2cf per chamber at 32hz  but if its 2cf before subs then its about 1.5 after subs which is way to small per chamber and my old box was supposedly 2.25-2.45 at 32hz. Can some one calculate cf and tuning from the measurements of my old box? W32xH15 1/8xD14 7/8 Port is an L short end is 13 1/4 long end is 21

I'd encourage you to learn a bit of box modeling. Grab winISD and follow a tutorial to model your subwoofers. It should be very simple to compare the two setups you've had and see what the differences in their response. 

Exactly learn box modeling..  but I would not use winisd from linerteam.org last I looked downloading it down loads a tons of viruses.. are you useing a ipone or a Droid phone?? See what free apps are avaible like google play store? I did the port math on speak box lite and it checks out .. that was for droid. Phones .. just make sure when entering your t/s perametters the setting ate English or metric mode like liter versus cuft..  other then that have fun. 

I've never seen a virus with downloads from linear team.

I would also never do business with skar.  Even half price is too much