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Featured Replies

Posted

I dont understand, its almost as if the system has gotten quieter...

I mean If I put my hand to the window, i can feel the air pushing on it hard, but the bag just vibrates like a mother fudgeer...doesnt move...

I am always looking to be loud(its why i went with an 18) and although im bumping it up to another BL, id like to suceed with 1 for now.

Any advice? Bigger Box? Different tuning?

Edited by Grim

  • Author

1000w Alpine m1005

In a Jeep Grand Cherokee

Everything looks pretty good, not too sure why your having problems. I know its cool to do certain tricks, but if it sounds good, not realy a big deal.

Box seems good though lot's of people do sub up port facing rear for spl....

I think the sub wants a bit more wattage in my opinion.... i would slap 1500 to it if i were in your shoes....

also any electrical upgrades?

Also fosgaholic asked a good question. I think i saw you had like 90 sq ft

  • Author

95 Sq/In

It definitely sounds good(adise from the roof flex on the outside) just thought it should be pushing more air

Can it take 1500w?

Its only a BL with P Chamfer

I liked it when it was port/Sub Forward..

I think on the new Build I am going to go with Port Back and Sub Up..

Edited by Grim

you could also increase port volume say up to 100 sq ft....

though seems you want air "spl" out of your sub...

I don't want to say that the BL can easily handle 1500... I am certain that 1K is a very conservative rating.....

though you need to realize your amp is probably NOT pushing out 1k maybe slightly under. i can't really say unless you let me know what type of electrical upgrades you have... Battery in the rear, HO alternator, big three ??

  • Author

Just the big three...And its a prety under rated amp...My Voltage stays at around 13.9 and drops to low 13's in big hits...

Just the big three...And its a prety under rated amp...My Voltage stays at around 13.9 and drops to low 13's in big hits...

How far open is your window? I have around 1800rms, and about 115sqin of port and it doesn't really blow out the window without putting the window up a little. You might want to try a little more port area, you could try tuning a little different.

  • Author

How about bigger box and more Port area? As thats what I was planning on anyways...

cant hurt. for some reason before the subs break in they are actually a little louder from my experience. Maybe it's just me, but the #s on the meter reflect this as well.

  • Author

i honestly feel they were louder when I first got them as well...

I have no clue how to build this new box...I mean I have so many different ideas running through my mind.

  • Author

Well My biggest problem is theres so much unused room...and i cant use it even with fiberglass as I have to be able to get it in my fudgeing jeep lol...I mean theres litterally 5 cubes or so that i cannot figure out how to capitlize on....

And how do I make the port area bigger without changing the tuning...

Yeah i would increase the box size and port area...

the BL rec. specs for the enclosure is MIN 5 max 10 so you want ideally 7 Cu-ft (that's right in the middle)..

then take the 7 x 15 = 105 square ft of port...

so a box that would do well would be 7 cu-ft with 105 sq ft of port area...

This is in theory of course..

as for the amp

# Mono subwoofer car amplifier

# 500W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)

# 700W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)

# 700W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)

# 1.000W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)

Note that one say 14.4V

your electrical is 13v

so in theory you probably pushing 800 to the sub....

to get the full 1k you would need to increase your vehicle electric to push 14.4v

Edited by theabunai

  • Author
Yeah i would increase the box size and port area...

the BL rec. specs for the enclosure is MIN 5 max 10 so you want ideally 7 Cu-ft (that's right in the middle)..

then take the 7 x 15 = 105 square ft of port...

so a box that would do well would be 7 cu-ft with 105 sq ft of port area...

This is in theory of course..

as for the amp

# Mono subwoofer car amplifier

# 500W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)

# 700W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)

# 700W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)

# 1.000W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)

Note that one say 14.4V

your electrical is 13v

so in theory you probably pushing 800 to the sub....

to get the full 1k you would need to increase your vehicle electric to push 14.4v

Thanks one question, if my electrical is 13v how am i keeping it up around low 14's high 13's all the time?

Im going to work on designing my box tonight. Any advice on making the port on the bottom....I dont know how to do it without screwing up the tuning...

And will the port fireing back into my Cargo door cancel anything out?

because that's how it works. With my electrical upgrades (which aren't really that extensive, 200a alt, 3 batts) I stay around 14.8v all the time. Under steady heavy notes I go down around 14.3ish, if I'm blasting test tones it'll even go down to 13.8 or lower the more I blast, but that's with 4krms.

Where your voltage sits is regulated by your alternator (to really simplify it). Most alternators actually put out a little less that 14.4v from the factory (in my experience). Your batterie(s) may also help keep your voltage up.

Car batteries (most) are 12v, but for instance I bought a yellowtop and tested it before putting it in my car, it was sitting at about 13.8

I assumed he was building a larger box since that was discussed. If he went from 6-7+ft^3 then he'd still have to shorten the port if he only made it 10sqin bigger. If working with what's there you are absolutely correct about longer.

sean is right about port length.

as to the bag trick, the boss's escalade has a pair of 18" solo xs, in 14.75ft^3 net, tuned to 30hz with 200in^2 of port. pushing this monster is a memphis 4kw @ 1ohm. electrical is a yellow top up front, blue top in back, 1/0 wire and big three and a dual alternator set up giving about 310amps of power(iraggi 220 and a stock ford 90). it does a 140 @ 25hz and a 151.6 @ 50 hz on the tl and we have yet to pull of a hair trick or bag/ shirt trick. his rear hatch glass flex out enough that we think that's where the air is going, or possibly the sunroof. so those are areas you might check as well. if the air finds a escape before your window, that could be your issue.

i'd also add a bit more power. the 'lade will be getting a second 4kw soon. hehe

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

tej and mrray posted what i was going to post to answer all your questions grim *damn forum whores*

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