What it says, I've heard the FS drops fro 37hz. I need to know what the new parameters become. i have 2 fullyloaded BLs, 12" Need to know by tommorow please.

Doesn't matter, the box recommendation stays the same.

They'll continue to break in and change as you use them...if your trying to plot them in winisd or a program of that nature to predict output curves your really wasting your time.

Stick with what we recommend for a box, you'll be good to go.

Actually I am currently in school @ Installer Institute and we are building boxes built for the car/sub....anyways should I just use the the listed specs then?

Yeah...don't ask, don't tell.

I about got azzraped when I asked the same thing a few months ago.

Maybe we should sticky this.

should I just use the the listed specs then?

Yes.

Lol they should be able to tell us. It does help knowing it.

Does it really matter if you know the specs or not? The people who designed them should be able to recommend the best enclosures, plus the modeling programs are just a rough guess at what should happen.

Does it really matter if you know the specs or not? The people who designed them should be able to recommend the best enclosures, plus the modeling programs are just a rough guess at what should happen.

....waits for azzraping...

lawl, bend over....

Ok guys, Ill try to help you out here.

Last time I talked to Scott, he said the specs that are listed on the site are after the subs break in. He specifically said that he had a couple proto subs that he wanted to really wang on to get the specs instead of putting a softer suspension to spec it out.

So use the specs listed on the site if you must but it will be better to build a box that Fi recommends instead of what a modeling program will tell you.

You never really 100% 'break in' a sub..

Using t/s parameters for box modeling will throw your enclosures waaaaaaaaaaaaay off with the BTL series of subs, and you definitely won't get the response that the programs say you will. (For instance WinISD will tell you to put the 18" btl in a 2 cubic foot sealed box for a good +/- 3dB alignment from 20-100hz)

That, isn't the case though.

Stick with what we recommend...there's no point in modeling woofers in a box program, the graphical response you get in the particular scenario 99% of the time will never be remotely close to the real world response.

That's good info Nick!

Can you explain why the BTL's don't like sealed boxes? Or what a BTL would sound like in a sealed box? Output and such.

Too much motor strength.

Generally speaking Low Q (.2-3)woofers do not like sealed boxes, they like larger ported boxes.

Mid Q woofers (.3-.45 or so) are the best of both worlds and work well sealed/ported.

High Q woofers (~.5+++) are generally sealed box only woofers with the byproduct of being a horridly inefficient 'turd' if you will , and IMO aren't the greatest from a design standpoint, they sound dead and lifeless in my opinion.

High Q midbasses are sometimes used in open baffle...a lot of vintage Alnico-magnet speakers had Q's over 1, to make usable bass with no enclosure involved.

I love threads that turn intellegent

Well it is quite a broad range you reccomend. We are not using any programs like WiniSD. Like I said the enclosure will be built for the sub/car for the best "real world response".

What are you guys using then, or are you acutally doing the equations longhand with a pencil and paper?

With a calculator lol. fudge long division on paper.

Calculators should only be used for the final step....

I trust a calculator more than I do my long hand division lol.

I trust a calculator more than I do my long hand division lol.

Pfft, long division is easy stuff.