Tirefryr

Hey, I didn't blow it up. It was all of it's own accord. It was problematic from day 1. I only purchased it because it was cheap and had a 2 year warranty. Didn't think I'd be returning it so soon though. I'm not really sure I can bring myself to spend over $600 on a HU either.

SO I tried out a Jensen HU because it was $400 cheaper than the Kenwood I wanted. Well, it didn't work out too well. It blew up Saturday and started smoking in my dash. Luckily, Crutchfield is handling it all for me, so I can't complain about that, but DO NOT use Jensen products!

I would try that or just make up my own DIN to RCA converters.

There is literally a set of RCA outputs on the amp. They are labeled, "out." Simply run from there into your other amp and you are all set. There is no DIN output on the amp, so why would you need to go from DIN to RCA or anything in between?

Doubt you'll find anything. Those were very cheap drivers when they were available and it's not economically feasible to offer a $100 recone for something you could buy new for the same price.

Then fuse to the current rating of the cable.

Depends on what you want to fuse for. Are you fusing to prevent overcurrent supply to the amplifiers? Are you fusing to prevent a fire in case of a short? Are you fusing due to class rules?

Your experience you explained in your first post is what I mean by peaky. You're relying too much on a program that models on small signal with no acoustical reference to transfer function, cancellation, power compression, group delay, etc. . . . . Don't expect your results to mimic what the program is modeling.

I did not check the specs on the Sundown, but the only one of the three drivers you questioned that I would use in a vented alignment would be the JL. The Demon and IDQ have much too high of a Qts for vented IMO, and both will be peaky.

It appears your current amp has a line out. Simply run that into the new amp and you're good.

Well, the Town Car is quite a bit different than an M3. I think I could fit the M3 in my trunk.

I think I'm going to try my hand at a 4th order BP for the XXX12. I want to be able to completely hide the driver in my trunk. I ordered a Woofer Tester2 last night also so I can get some real T/S parameters.

Your Youtube algorithm is similar to mine!

That's actually a great size for it. My old XXX12 was in 1.15 and sounded fantastic!

You won't know until you get it in an enclosure. I'd throw a quick sealed box together and test it.

I was head unit shopping last week. I was torn between the chinese Android units and the name brand shit. I wanted something with Nav so I didn't have to rely on my phone, but everything is stupid over-priced. Crutchfield had a decent Jensen unit for $250 and specs that matched all the big boys AND a 2 year warranty where others had 1, so it comes in today and I open the literature and it states the warranty is only 1 year. I called their hotline and they tell me it's only 1 year. Going to have to call Crutchfield tomorrow and return this thing I think. I also got the Metra harness with it because it retains all the factory functions, but come to find out, the factory sub will not work unless I buy another adapter for the RCAs. Nope. Not what they advertised and not what I wanted. i have NEVER had a problem with Crutchfield before, and this two errors are just so stupid I can't even believe they happened.

So, I worked all weekend sweating my ass off. It culminated today with some customers coming in from NJ and I had to train an entire family. It was easy money, but painfully long and drawn out. Literally outside in the blazing sun and humidity all day. Get home and the house is hot. Air is running, but the condenser is not on. Go out and cut some weeds down around the unit. Find the refrigerant line appears to have had something fall on it. It's too damaged to try to repair, and the unit is 30+ years old anyways, so it's kinda pointless. I started doing some shopping and HD has a split system I can buy, but the cheapest one is $2500, so I'm just going to get fucked here once I pay someone else to do it and buy a unit from them. Fucked up day.

They still have a standard 12VDC charging system. The hybrid system is separate and self-contained. You won't have anything to worry about. Just pull the main fuse on the orange cables before working on anything.

Anyone use any of the micro amps on the market? I'm looking for something to power some planar tweets.

I personally never go more than 5Hz below tuning. I would start there and see if you can go any lower before it starts unloading.

I would use a modulating gas valve. On/off would be too inconsistent. I'm with you on the embedded thermocouple though. Just make sure it's as tight as can be. Even a small air pocket is an insulator and can easily provide an error factor of 10 degrees.

Sorry Mike. I know your pain.

You'll be fine.

You'll be okay.

Supposed to get some storms tonight and tomorrow. The past two times it's stormed, I've lost power. Let's see if I lose power again.