dbsupra

Looks great Steve! Did you leave the underside of the hood orange? Can't wait til you have some outdoor shots!

I'm not talking about heat from current. I'm talking about ambient heat. It gets pretty warm in the cabin, especially under a window. Plus the repeated heat cycles and break down the adhesive. Not saying it won't be fine. Just asking.

getting there! any reason you used electrical tape over shrink tube? Not trying to be picky. I'm sure you researched where the adhesive is obtained and at what temperature it is produced in the reactor. Wasn't sure if there was a particular reason other than that is what you had.

It came out really well! You can definitely tell when someone plans something out vs slapping some stuff together.

I believe Remy is just a reseller with their own brand of blank label batteries made by someone else. The Deka Intimidator is a nice battery. Along with the rebadges like CarQuest NGT Extreme, Oreilly SuperStart Extreme, etc. The Diehard Platinum is a really nice battery too. That's what I have as my main battery. They are OEM"d by Oddyssey.

The new update for Torres seems to be a little off on port tuning. I talked to Chris about this and he is looking into it. Otherwise, looks good!

SP4 is for sure a brutal sub. The smallest you can get is a 15" so that's already a decent size enclosure even for one. They are custom made and atleast a month to get one. So unless you buy used don't be in a hurry to get one. Take some measurements of how much space you have and/or willing to give up. Make a budget. Don't forget about wire, batteries, wood etc. It adds up. Then make a plan from there.

I've said it before and I'll say again. Thats one badass truck. One of my favs for sure. I do like in your video you say "complete" then within the first 12 seconds you are already talking about changes to the doors lol. And, +1 for nonsidewayscantholdaniphonetherightway video

I thought the same thing. I looked and looked and finally found in his build thread.

Congrats Cheezy! PS either you have a tiny head or thats a BMF port! PPS looks like that box was hit by a forklift. looks like it is still in one piece tho!

That back window is hating life! I was looking at the specs on your new setup. So you are running double rms rating to each sa-12? Metered the new setup?

I really wanted to come to the show. But my son had a festival to A/V and I got called in to work. The joys of being on call 24/7. Congrats on the score! Hope you can make Indy.

Nice! Your cabin pressure relief vents are going nutty haha. Slo mo isnt bad, especially for a phone. Frame rate is a little choppy but still a cool feature.

Aha! I thought those were 4" and 15's lol. I didn't look back at the thread to refresh my memory. Yep, that worked out real well then. I thought you only had 50 in^2 which was half of the original plans you had posted. I also just noticed you did a round over looks like on the port end. Pretty cool. Vids or it never played

I really like that D block! And I'm really jelly that you can just drop in a giant driver in your door. Not all of us have that kind of clearance. On the upside all the work I did I was able to put the driver in a better position than factory. Good luck at the show tomorrow!

Looks nice! How come you decided to go with 1/2 the port area of the original plan? Was it because of space?

I don't think that is a good idea. Relays are cheap. What do you have the rocker switch wired to? What is the current rating on the switch? If you have a lot of current running through a switch that can be a potential fire hazard. They are designed as a low current control for a circuit, not to be used for passing any kind of real current.

I would check all your connections. Be sure all the ring terminals (or whatever you used) are secured and the wire doesn't wiggle around. Make sure to check all your grounding. All the ground surfaces should be clean of paint, rust, etc. That is a 81Ah battery. Should be plenty strong for what you are doing. And if it is dropping so low your head unit is cutting off that is very low. Have you put a voltmeter on it? Had the alternator tested? Where are your grounds located? What is your resting voltage? Charge voltage?

This. I'd take a meter and check the remote turn on wire to ground and make sure you get 12v.

How much depth do you have available? Let's start there. Actually, all max dimensions would be nice.

Thats how I took it. Team member = Team pricing Maybe I am wrong. If you are about to lose a girl of 7yrs over car audio, getting better prices wont solve that. Might want to do some thinking on that one. Welcome and good luck!

VR = variable resistor SW = switch The numbers 1, 2, 3, etc are just the designation of the component. I'm not sure why you would need a pot on a fan. Is it temperature controlled or run full time? It could be to tune the cut on/off temperature. As far as the ssf, if the traces lead to the pot then it could control it perhaps. The pot is just a variable resistor, instead of fixed. There are different ways you can configure it, depending on which legs you use. The wiper is almost always the center pin. Then you can use either or both legs of the resistor. In theory, you can adjust that pot to alter the ssf. It would be the same as the external knob (pot) just mounted internally. What you can do, is test the ssf to see where it is now. Then carefully count how many turns you make in either direction to see if it makes any changes. If not, then you can put it back where it was by turning it back the same amount of turns. Most pots are 10 turn. Listen carefully, if you turn too many times you will hear a faint click. Be careful, if there are other components tied to the output it may effect them as well. I used to work on amps back in the day, but Memphis wasn't a brand I have repaired. Hope this helps

If you use a relay, try to get a 75 ohm coil. Some have a low resistance and can pull quite a bit of current. The deck typically only supplies 500mA

Well I got it all ordered. Did not get the compression fittings. The one that would work for the distribution would only fuse up to 150a so that seemed to be one less pro and too many cons. Ended up buying a kit and a second type of fuse block for $8 to try out as well. Thanks for all the input.

I'm getting ready to do another electrical upgrade and have been poking around a bit. Thought I'd try out Knukonceptz's gear this go around. I saw some of their lines use compression fittings and really like the design. I've never been that big of a fan of smashing a wire in with a screw but it does work. Any experience with these fittings? Often something that looks cool doesn't always play out well in the real world. I've used compression fittings adapting hardline to braided hose and sometimes it can be a pita. Although this is a little different, wasn't sure if they were worth the effort and how secure the connection is. Thanks! http://www.knukoncep...mages/Komp1.jpg http://www.knukoncep...mages/Komp2.jpg