pro-rabbit

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BTW..... THIS IS TOMORROW!!!! If you come out be sure to look for me, I will have on our new T-shirts with our new logo and such... Big thanks goes out to DJ aka Ramteid on here for cranking out our new logo!!! I will post up pics of the shirts soon as well in our vendor section....

Since when does a low tune freq, obviously ported, go against an sq style install? Op, is your current enclosure optimal for your P2? To answer your question about tuning and SQ. SQ when mentioned with enclosure designing would suggest a flat response with in the actual application. Unless you're using a HT application that low of tuning is not going net a flat response, almost the exact opposite. In most cases when tuned that low, it is do to not understanding the relation being the enclosure, port, and the application. Not saying what you have is wrong, if you like then who cares, just saying it is not SQ and almost all subs will not have an "SQ sound" when in a similar style designed enclosure. Which also brings me to my next point. If you want to change subs, then you should be designing and building a new enclosure to get the best overall performance from the new sub.

Just black and white for now. All though we are working on colors as well. I will also be testing the black to see how it reacts to paint.

BTW- I will have this at the show..not sure if I will have it hooked up, but it will at least be there to look at.

Yes sir, we do a lot of enclosures(around 15-20 a week or more online) and we still do local builds as well. With the volume we have been doing we have been slacking off on pictures and I do apologize for that. I did manage to build a "test box" for some new coating materials that are similar to bed liner but are thicker and made for wood. Came out pretty good and I think we will be stocking this and offering it as an upgrade option for those that want it. here is an idea of what it looks like. This enclosure had zero prep work..was tossed together and then covered in the new material. It has a OZ Audio Matrix Elite 12 mounted in it for testing. I brought it home and had it setup up in my HT as well. Works very well, very durable and is actually washable..

We are working on the Blazer today..but don't count on it. We have been up to our eyes in work so the Blazer is not getting much love haha.

I may show up...who knows hahahaha I suppose I am obligated to show at this point lol Welcome to SSA BTW

AHO is working with me on the USACi shows and he may do his own midwest spl shows here and there. I only host USACi shows though. I am working a series of shows 1 a month and having a triple point show in September during the state fair.

Welcome...nice to see more people from OK showing up.

He wanted to get this stuff installed rather quickly..so 3.5 hours later and this is what we got.... This was installed in a 2002 Escalade 2 DD 9515s DD M4A Batcap 4000 There is more product going into this truck..this is a temp setup to get some low-end in the truck for a while. Vinyl matched to the truck with dual Kerf port. Batcap 4000 and a "quick" wire job to get him up and running for a few days until he gets the rest of the product he needs.

The jack was installed prior to me seeing the truck. It bolts in place. He has some larger wheels and wanted a better jack if he gets a flat.

LOL, it is actually. I will have to get a better pic. We had a few trays left over from an SPL build where we had some 4000's mounted on the frame..so this is sitting in that and mounted to the box. It does need the strap but we ran out of time and after some tests we realized it was not going anywhere for the time being. He should be back over at 10am tomorrow though to get some touch ups done and that is one of them.

Agreed. The torch idea..is called flame polishing and works amazingly great. We use that method a lot when building aquariums.

No problems... Here is a quick few images of what we normally do for the 3rd part of the plexi install. What is not shows is that on the inside of the cutout(viewing area) we use a rabbit bit and cut a groove back for folding the carpet over. This is cut from 1/2"mdf And set over everything after the plexi is installed... In the end this is all you see

Here is a "rough" idea on how to do it with out far more work then required. This would be the outer more part of the baffle. Cut out would be the size of plexi you slide in. For mounting it you can cut 4 smaller parts for the inner baffle (makes cutting the whole much easier if you are not used to better ways to do it). This will leave 1" or more where you can drill into the plexi for pilot holes and use screws to secure it. This is almost the same method I used for the picture above. I typically make a 1/4 or 1/2" panel over the very back to hide all screws and edges of the window cut out. Normally made in an oval shape or custom cutout of some sort. While this is not the method I use the most, it is a tried and true method and great for learning.

No problem, if you have any questions on a quick/good way to mount the plexi just hit me up. I will help you with what I can.

I don't think i would do it that way to be honest. I still stand by only useing 3/4" or larger or you will more then likely have issues with flex. Best bet for your first time to do a basic enclosure, cut out a whole the size of the plexi, and make a window style lip to mount it too..it will flush out and if done correctly will never fail. You can then take another sheet of mdf and make a second face to hide scews and such. Very easy. I get my plexi from a wholesaler so I'm afraid I will be of no help for you there. Sorry.

Ours depends on our clients. Like the images I linked to that was just 3/4" plexi and it was built that way because a few weeks later we built fiberglass beauty panel that covered up the edges and such. The idea of putting it between wood works well if done correctly. I never use anything smaller then 3/4" for enclosures though.

Those CWM6KIT have the biggest f-king baskets I've ever seen on a 6.5 I couldn't use them because of it. It's erm...like notched...around the mounting flange and if he has 6.5" stocks you might have to cut metal. Just a heads up. EDIT: I can take pics if you need. We have 5 sets of the CWM6kits in our demo truck...work great and had zero issues with fitment. However the depth could be an issue if you do not have much clearance. The bright side is they are cheap and work amazingly well.

Nice man, I like the way it looks. also looks like some time went into that wrapped section of the beauty panel....just a few curves in there haha...

This weekend is fast approaching!!!

Here is a quick idea of what we are considering right now. Don't mind the colors, I put them there so Tony(the owner of the truck) could make out what was going on in the design.

Some of you may have seen this on another forum...but I figured I would post this here as well. This is actually a friend of mine's truck, so this was all done at the house "off the clock"....so it took a few days of after hours work to get it going. Product... 24 10" Audioque 2.0 dual 4 ohm sub-woofers 4 Audioque Pro-Audio 6.5"s 4 Audioque Pro-Audio Tweets 2 Audioque 3500Ds 1 Audioque 120.4 All Cadence wires 9 C&D batteries Dual DC alternators (300amps each) Here is the truck... The product (some of it) The rough idea.... The enclosure.... The amp rack..... still working on it... All baffles were done for what the owner wanted to see cosmetically, but came out decently I think. Truck is just stupid loud over all. I will try and get some video of it at some point soon.

When working with plexi there are several ways to go about using it. No way is really the wrong way as long as it seals and does not flex. Here is one we did in a few hours for a local. We went with two sections of plexi because I happen to have it sitting around.