arctictwist

I figured first id get the fun of cutting the holes for my double baffle out of the way. I found out that the jasper jig is a little off...and the sub didnt fit. But after hours of sanding it fit. Then a couple weeks later i got to work again and banged out this box. A little trick that i picked up someone for getting the proper volume...packing peanuts. Test fit I planned for that... Drivers side Pass side Wire which was probably more trouble than it was worth doing And a slight view of the sub And thats where i am left off at now. Its been a couple weeks and I feel pretty satisfied with the box so i need to pull it out and carpet it. Also on my to do list are: (1) to put the center console back with wiring ran through it for the usb and 3.5mm hook up with the head unit along with extra cigarette lighter outlets inside it (2) mlv and ccf on rear doors (3) cld tiles on roof ANd maybes.... Second battery, seal up front doors (fiberglass or just plywood?), alternator (big maybe) and mids (also big maybe) oh and yea i NEED to figure out this video problem with the iphone. Its really bugging me...and i dont really use it lol.

Fast forward to end of summer and I got motivated again. I got my seat lift cut up and drilled and installed the seats finally. I used some heavy heavy steel c-channel and grade 8 bolts to do it. Drilling and cutting that c channel was not fun at all. Then came the fun of planning how this sub was going to get under there. I took lots of measurements and played around with lots of numbers. But even after hearing over and over that it cant be done, i got to work.

I started with 1/4 MDF and covered it with some black fabric to look a little cleaner. Then mounted the amps and ran the wire I then had to edit it when found the seat brackets would hit it. But it was just a cutoff at the bottom. No need to clog this up with extra pics of that. But then i tried to fit the seats and it was too close to the amps. I would have to move my seats forward or figure something else out. So i planned on moving them forward a tad, no big deal... Also i hadnt quite finished the big three... so i fixed that. With this connection by voltage jumped to 14.3 steady. also some updated and easier to see pics of the battery connections. I have one postive terminal spot open... its for when i add the second battery. Which i plan to set up a permanent jumper cable block off of as well. And that brings us to march...where it gets SLOW. I had surgery, and life got busier as soon as I was done. On top of grad school, full time job, once a week part time job and martial arts training, i picked up a job at the martial arts place part time teaching and assisting with other things around the school. So everything went to the back burner as i barely had free time and family and girlfriend need some time to.

I decided i my speakers could sound better and ordered the mlv and CCF from SDS and did up the doors some more. and to be honest i havent gotten to the back doors yet but it really helped the fronts. Then i started to think about my sub stage again and decided i would go under the rear seat with a couple of sa-8s. I had heard alot about them on the forums like CA. when searching for them to buy i came here and was intrigued by the SSA subs. I really wanted something in the SA10 price range. And after asking and searching came to the conclusion that I would probably be pretty happy if i jumped the gun on an SSA product so shortly after that decision this arrived. and inside? this beast of a 10 Then i needed something to power it and found The sundown amp barely used for a good price.

I ran my power cable through the driver side just under the brake booster. Next was the big three and adding more terminals to the battery. Along with the huge fuse. Then i was able to drive my truck to work, i was actually a little late for my third shift on sunday night. I spent close to 40 hrs in my truck that weekend. It was rough. Then i waited.... I had planned to use my center console as a sub box for a couple 6.5 inch subs, then i was going to go 8s...then a JL W6 10....and then i stopped planning that idea and rethought the sub stage all together.

I started by wiring up the pac unit. because of the RCAs it doesnt fit in the stock hole, so i had to do this. I also managed to use the vacant area next to where the factory satellite tuner is for the aftermarket one and the stock antenna wire. You just need to pull off the yellow end. When it was all said and done it fit. But thats jumping ahead a little on the weekend, next i had to do the big three before i could button this up for the weekend as well as run power for the amps.

Day 2 was more involved. My dad let me work on the truck while at work on saturday ( i was using his warehouse for the work). I would forgo pay that day, but still do my job if needed in the store. So i stripped out the carpet, the door panels and speakers, the stock head unit and got to work. i started with some cld tile work (i had decided to just to that in the beginning) Then i moved on to the speakers where i edited the after market speaker adapters (should have made my own) to have a water shield on them (dont know how necessary this was) and ran speaker wires. i am definitely lacking pictures here, cus the wire running was extensive and frustrating to say the least. But these boots, were a PITA at the door frame. i ended up running a piece of soft copper tube through it, which i then ran a wire through. I pulled the tube and kept the wire. then looped that wire around the speaker wire and pulled it through. The rear speakers were easier because the boot came off on both sides. The rear door one required you to pull off the seatbelt assembly to get to. then its cake. Heres the components in factor location. I hacked up the stock tweeter mount, but it worked and looks stock. Then on to the headunit....

were all curious as to what route youll be going next!

New parts are always fun!

Single 10 in my Silverado CC and it POUNDS on 1200w! 1.5 cubes, ported/tuned to about 33 hz

Def Love it guys. Now i think I need to seal up my doors so my mids sound better, i can tell how much they are lacking now that the sub is in.

I just gotta tell you guys that after i think 8 months of owning this i FINALLY got it in my truck. I had never heard of you before this sub and let me just say that you definitely exceeded my expectations! This thing hits and HARD. I know exactly where Ill be going next time I need a sub!

It is. Thank you.

I started my stereo install without full plans. I had no idea what my substage would consist of. I had a JL amp already for my door speakers and thought id be going that route so i ran the JL bass knob wire through with the rest of my wiring. I then ended up learning of sundown and got the sax-1200 amp and the bass knob that comes with it. Do you know if i can just swap the wires or do i have to re run it? I really don't feel like pulling my carpet back out just to get that wire re-run if its not necessary. Also the JL wire didnt plug into the knob itself, there was a 6 inch line off the knob that it connected to. So i need to extend it, do i need a special wire and connector? Thank you. Ken

Well good luck!

Awesome! Congrats! What got you over the hump?

Wecome! Im also from CT, Ans/Derby area

Im not the sketching type lol. Im not artistic at all, whether i have the help of a PC or not. BUT it spans the underseat area in the back of my crew cab silverado. On the pass side the sub will mount flush in raised section of the base. The port will be behind it. The box will likely close off half way across the driver side and ill have a little bit of space for storage. Hopefully ill make some decent progress tomorrow and post pics. i got my holes cut last week, so the hard part is handled.

I have an ICON 10 and I just started the box last week. I work alot so it's been a slow stereo install

When i asked this question in my quad cab silverado, everyone said down fire sub and pass side fire the port

Where could u possibly go with it? It needs 1.75 - 2.75 cu ft and the sub itself is large.

Thanks for the help guys. I think ive got it figured out! Ill find out sunday when i dive back into it!

Box should net 1.5 cubes, i was told to tune around 33 hz so i am in between sq and spl, im not looking to compete or anything, its an underseat box in my silverado (3 inch seat lift to gain space). I was told already here that best to face the port towards the rear pass door. My problem with that is that i have a maximum of 6x3 for port area there. Which is bare minimum for port area going by the "general rule of thumb" of 12-16 per cube, but ive read thats a load of junk. I tried winisd, it gave me a ridiculous port area. Im not sure what i did wrong but it came out over 100 sq inches. I did online calculators and got anywhere between 20 and 40 sq inches. So first off, can someone help me out in figuring my port area required? Second is, if i have to sacrifice port direction to accomodate size, how much of a difference will it make if i shoot it all the way over to the driver side or out the front of the box? Thanks. Ken

Whey protein is really only great for you post workout. Its a fast digesting protein. Protein from whole foods is better throughout the rest of the day. If you cant, a blend with casein in it is better. Its just a pain because casein is more expensive. I use dymatize elite whey for post workout. Jerky is a great protein source BUT its usually LOADED with soduim.

Wow man, im trying HARD to get down to around 10%. Good for you two being in awesome shape.