BigGuy

Help me out, what's wrong with cbreen?

Well. I've technically been on this site prior to posting on this page. I was a little hard headed and did things different. I couldn't justify spending nearly 600 bucks on a JL 12w6v2 ($599.00 @ Crutchfield). So, I originally found this site looking and searching for some "great value" subwoofers through google. I came across the SA 12"s but after having found SSA woofers, I haven't looked back. The SA's seemingly needed more power than the amp I already had was capable of. My first purchase were a pair of Dcon d4 12"s. Next up Xcons for me!!! My ears have been drooling lately!!! Wait they're eargasming!!!

I got a warning strike too, lol. Anyway, I say hook the sub up and see what it does. No harm in that. You may be surprised.

Hey guys. I was doing my normal research and I stumbled across this site. Please check it out. Please post opinions. I hope I don't get in trouble. Here is the link: http://www.data-bass.com/drivers If you click on each named driver it gives a good bit of info.

Dare I say, that is a "sexy beat box"!

Damn those are some nice looking trucks. I always thought Fords looked better lifted. I wish you would keep it since it's paid for. No bills = win, but I also think man should buy what he wants. Only one life to live. Still, I like as is!!!

This is interesting...

Hook that alarm up to some train some horns if you can. I feel your pain bro. If I ever catch a thieve if won't be nice!!!

Nice install. I love it, I love it, I love it!!!

Great postings by all those involved. Question (my brain wonders a little too much for my own good): Why can't sound quality be "loud as fuck"? Let's say you can design the perfect vehicle with whatever front stage would be needed to keep up with whatever sub stage you could want. Wouldn't that be ideal and sound excellent. Newb question here: Is sound quality a level of volume or a well balanced and blended sound. Because if it is the latter of the two, why can't sound quality have (10) 18"s in the back?

Sencheezy, maybe it means 1000 watts for a full 24 hrs. I could see a sub getting very hot for that long. Also most use their systems for maybe 2-3 hours (typical commute) in a day and definetly not at full tilt for that time.

Taken directly from the website: "However there are many larger drivers that don’t have ultra high sensitivity. A good pro audio subwoofer may have 6 to 10dB higher sensitivity over an average high excursion car audio subwoofer making them very capable with quite a bit less power, at least for their frequency range which is usually above 40Hz. Likewise, SPL drivers ironically enough don’t need much power! Let me repeat. True SPL drivers ironically enough don’t need much power! That’s because they are used in the higher frequency range and generally have great sensitivity numbers. They need this in order to get the excursion and ultimately SPL. High sensitivity and lots of power means lots of SPL provided the driver is still reasonably linear and does not break. It’s important you know the TSP’s of the driver you buy, otherwise it could be the wrong driver for you!" Can be found in myths section # 8.

Someone please explain why true "spl" drivers don't need big power. Everything I thought I knew about car audio needs to be reevaluated. Wow???

Here is the myth page for those less internet savy. http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=knowhow&type=1

Yes I second the Sundown looking good. Even though this site has a couple "car subs", the site seem more geared towards home theatre. I do like how the site dispells a lot myths about audio and is really a good read. I think everyone should check it out!

TAKE PICS!!! MAKE SOME VIDEOS!!! I WANT TO SEE!!!

I just ordered one. I think the guys are putting together a show but once that is over, I think things will be back to "normal". Once mine is received, I'll be posting up pics!!!

Just because. Some Kenny G will do.

Absolutely right Swift. The thing I like about sealed boxes is their measurements are more or less exact for a sub. Also, all of my past subs have been JL prowedge boxes and Kicker boxes. I'm new to this raw driver and ported box thing. I was wanting to make sure I have the "perfect" box for my subs and my car. Here is a link to my whip on cardomain. I'm sure you guys want to see what's going on. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3158303/1983-oldsmobile-cutlass-supreme I won't post anymore until I start my build thread. Promise

I finally took the time out to measure my trunk for a box for my brand new still in the box 2 x 12" Dcon d4 subwoofers. This is going in a 1983 Cutlass Supreme. Height: 14.75" Width: 38" Depth: 21 &1/2". I have no idea how those measurements would convert into cubic feet for the subs. Will a box built to these specs work with these subs? Amp is a Rockford Fosgate 1051s rated at 1100 watts bridged. I jumped the gun and ordered subs before measuring. I realize the trunk is wide but not tall, so box height would be limited, which makes for a somewhat smaller box. Probably should have gone with 10"s. But I'll try to work with what I got. I know in terms of sound I am looking for a balance between "sq/spl", the most musicality. All music gets played. Thanks in adavance for being patient with a learner.

Let me say first say thanks to Alton, Chop, and CT. You guys have really been helpful. I appreciate it. So the question is, should I do 3.5 cubes or 4.5 cubes at 30 or 33 hz in a trunk car on approximately 1000 watts? Of course with 1k watts, I'll be gentle on the gain and volume controls. This will be my last question as I will have the box made to whatever specs recommended. I'm just extremely happy knowing that whatever box gets made, I know it will fit. If money were no object, I would just have both boxes made and listen to which one I like best.

That will be a a lot of bass. Is that a spl car you're building? I'm curious about the highs/mids???

In one of the videos, SSA says the Icon sounds better. I think it was the video with the Chevy truck and 2 x 18"s Xcons is where I read that post.

CT, why would it be too big? SSA recommends 2.25 for one so using my logic, which is poor in most cases, doubling that would be 4.5. Please explain because I really am soaking all this info up. All I know is I want a box that going to give the best balance and a nice flat curve. Help understand??? 3.5 or 4.5 net? And what tune for a trunk car?

Thanks Chop, you're the man. I have to tell you I was a little afraid it wouldn't fit. Every other box I have had was pre-fabbed, sealed, and they were tiny. I hate how the our Cutlass trunks are made. Looks big from the outside, but it is rather small. I'm still impressed how you're fitting all that gear in your ride. That's a whole other level for sure. I'm still crawling over here. Anyway, I appreciate the heads up about that RF program. I'm going to check it out as I do want to learn how to make boxes. I wish I could hear your as I still have my inner bass head addiction.