heftybone

I've been looking online for some sound shows in said areas, and i can't find anything but old posts and people that discuss the shows they've been to. does anyone have any idea where i could find the info about upcoming shows, or know of any that's happening soon? thanks.

where and when is this being held? i would really like to go, especially to check out sencheezy's setup. that is one of the most badassious rigs I've seen yet. keep up the good work, brother!

might wanna check out the dayton audio um15-22. this girl is a low end beast, and would work well in that enclosure. of course you can't go wrong with the sundown or any of them on your list, but for the money, you can't beat the dayton. guaranteed.

hahahahahaaa

yeah, that's what i thought. damnit! i guess it was wishful thinkin. like i could trick the amp into seein it as 2ohms, ya know? the wiring schematic i seen for 1ohm load was amp+ to sub #1+ then to #2+, then amp- to sub #2- then to sub #1-. my idea was to have individual wires for each connection because that seems to be a little different. because that 1ohm diagram still runs the wires kind-of in series where the coils are still connected to each other, where-as my thought is the coils are independent of each other except for right out of the amp. which, i guess, is basically the same damn thing. doh!

oh, and if i had a stereo amp i could run the coils independently and that would be 2ohms, right?

well i know that. everything I've read has stated that but, i was thinkin if i took 1 lead from each terminal and wired them to the amp then it might see 2ohms. like if i took 1 voice coil + and ran it to the amp + and that same voice coil - and ran to the amp - and then did the exact same for the other side then it might see 2ohms. you get me? and if so, do you think that would be 2ohms? or would that be just like the 1ohm wiring? it is slightly different than the 1ohm wiring method. sorry, i can never remember which is series and which is parallel.

hey people, do you think i could run @ 2ohms with this electrical?

good thing, i would've quit a long time ago!

oh yeah m5, i knew that, i was just wanting to give an explanation to everyone else! and alton, you are as accurate as a $150,000 spl meter. m5 is for certain an asset, and then some! that guy really knows his shit! he really helped me out too, it really makes the forums a top-notch place when there's people like him ,(and yourself, and honda and eurika and that flaky jake guy ) that's willing to help out and share their knowledge just to help out some hard-headed dumb-ass! that's why i try to express my appreciation so much. annoyingly at times, I'm sure! I'm just glad you guys don't charge for this!

damn m5, i guess they're made of platinum and diamonds if it's the materials that drive the cost! I'm sure the accuracy has somethin to do with it, but what would make them so much better (the $150k units) than the cheaper ones, like for $25k or $5k? I'm sure it's not just the fact that they have multiple pick-up sources. and why would someone need to know that much detail about their product (excluding bomb makers, of course!)? i would think that building an airplane you would want to know how much noise/vibration is transduced into the cabin or car makers the same deal, but is that as far as it goes, or do you measure other aspects of the field? you certainly delve into some serious shit if you're playin with equipment like thay on a daily basis.

well evidently 1ohm is not the place for me. i smelled coil when i wired it up, so i figure my electrical just isn't up to the task. still with stock 130amp alternator and battery w/0awg "big 3 (er 4) for those just joining in, or that hasn't read through every single overly responsive, boring, long, tiring, excruciatingly painful reply or post that I've made. you guys think it would be the cca 0awg power and ground? i was thinkin it was either the stock electrical not givin enough power or the amp givin too much power. the amp is rated at 1900watts @ 1ohm/12v and the sub is 800watts rms. i know it's keepin 12v at the hard basslines @ 4ohm, but i doubt it is @ 1ohm. i didn't check it. what's you're ideas on it. any input is appreciated and considered. I've read of people putting 1000watts rms to this sub, but you know how that goes. it's a dayton audio um22-15. I've wired it back to 4ohms, but now i got 12awg ofc true gauge speaker wire, (it's actually bigger than the 10awg copper/aluminum wire i had). and just for the record, there is no difference in the sound between the overrated 10awg copper/aluminum or the true 12awg ofc.

oh yeah, you guys know i was jokin about the $15 meter has to be good, right? I've looked em up and m5 aint shittin, some of em get up to $25k! damn!

yeah, i can't justify shellin out that kind of dough just to get a reading. i think the local car audio dealer has an spl meter, so I'm gonna check him out once i get the new wire in and ran at 1ohm. he's gonna be reluctant and probably charge me cuz i didn't buy anything from him for this build and I've bought somethin from him on every build I've done for the past 25 years! i feel kinda bad but he wanted $8 for a 0awg lug, man! that's ridiculous when i can get a pack of 10 for $12. he usually works with me and flexs the prices but i guess times are tough. no wonder, at those prices! that's one thing i never understood about dealers, even though they give ya some deals and lower the cost some, they still charge out-the-ass which pretty much drives them out of business. take radioshack for example. and i always try to support the little guys, but at those prices it's hard to.

hey, i paid close to $15 for this meter, it's gotta be good!